BMW M5 (E34): PH Used Buying Guide
Tempted by a hand-built BMW super-saloon? Best tread carefully...
If you're a fan of subtle, finely engineered cars that pack a punch, then you've no doubt cast an appreciative eye over an E34 M5 at some point.
After all, this generation of BMW's high-performance saloon ticks a plethora of boxes for Q-car fans. Rear-wheel drive and a manual gearbox? Check. A powerful naturally aspirated straight-six with individual throttle bodies? Check. Bigger brakes, upgraded suspension and an LSD? Check. check, check.
All of these elements, in conjunction with a crisply styled four-door body and BMW's superbly designed interior, combined to deliver an understated yet immensely capable performance saloon. 'It's the most impressive piece of road-going machinery yet to emerge from BMW's Motorsport division,' said Autocar in September 1988, 'and it's a class apart from its rivals.'
It's the engine that's the centrepiece of this generation of BMW super-saloon. When right-hand-drive E34 M5s arrived in February 1990, under the front-hinged bonnet was a 3.5-litre, 24-valve S38B36 engine. This sonorous six screamed 'motorsports' and, thanks to a brace of cable-operated throttle bodies, punched out 315hp and 266lb ft. Even though the E34 weighed in at 1,745kg with a driver onboard, it could reputedly accelerate from 0-62mph in 6.3 seconds.
The more powerful S38B38 went into production in late 1991. This larger 3.8-litre engine produced 340hp and 295lb ft, which helped cut the E34's 0-62mph time down to 5.9 seconds. Performance was further improved with the launch of the Nürburgring pack, which included stiffer anti-roll bars and a mode switch for the 3.8's electronically controlled dampers.
Many of these parts became standard-fit after May 1994 - along with a six-speed manual transmission - when the pack was discontinued. Several special versions of the E34 M5 were also offered, including the UK-market 'Limited Edition' that commemorated the last right-hand-drive examples rolling off the line in July 1995.
Buying an E34 M5 is not a casual undertaking, however. You may get lucky and snap up a sound £10,000 example that gives you comparatively trouble-free motoring or end up with something that induces countless financial nightmares. Consequently, it's worth looking at several cars to get to grips with what a good M5 looks and feels like.
Whatever you do, unless you fully understand what might be involved, don't be tempted by a cheap example - as recommissioning a tired M5 is likely to cost just as much, if not more, than the car itself.
Search for BMW M5s (E34) here
Bodywork and interior
The hand-built E34 M5 is a high-quality piece of machinery, make no mistake, but even the youngest examples are now 23 years old. Rust can, as a result, be an issue. Check the underside of the car carefully, particularly around the jacking points, and also inspect the arches, the bottom edges of the doors, the sills and the area around the fuel filler.
You've little to worry about on the interior front. The materials and switchgear used in the E34 resist wear and tear well and, even at higher mileages, should be in good condition. Excessive wear could point to a hard life or, in some cases, a far higher mileage than what's claimed by the odometer. Just make sure that everything functions as expected, including the ventilation controls and electric seat adjustment, and check that the M5-specific instrument cluster is present and correct - it should have red needles and an oil temperature gauge.
Many E34s have marks on their bumper rubbing strips; if these annoy you, replacements are available for around £35 a corner. Otherwise, carry out the usual cosmetic and crash damage-related checks. If the example you're looking at doesn't have the original rear no-cost spoiler, worry not - as a reproduction spoiler is available for around £80. Panels aren't exclusive to the M5, either, so won't break the bank.
Engine and transmission
Two engines were used in the E34 M5 - the 3.5-litre S38B36 and the 3.8-litre S38B38. Some may state that the S38B36 is a 3.6-litre engine, as suggested by its designation, but it displaces 3,535cc. BMW opted for 'B36' to differentiate from the earlier 3,453cc S38B35 used in the E28 and E24.
Proper maintenance is essential to ensure the longevity of these otherwise durable powerplants. Check the history for signs of regular servicing and try to ascertain the quality of the fluids used. Routine servicing isn't overly expensive, particularly at a specialist, but attention must be paid to establishing whether the valve clearances have been checked; ideally, they should be inspected and adjusted - if necessary - every year or 15,000 miles.
The 3.8 uses a coil-per-plug ignition system. If the engine doesn't pull cleanly through the rev range, it could be that a coil pack is on its way out. Each one costs around £40.
Inspect the radiator and water pumps for any signs of leaks, as the last thing you want to do is overheat an S38 and be forced into replacing its head gasket. If the temperature starts to creep upwards while in traffic, it's likely that the viscous fan coupling has failed. A replacement is around £80 and easy to fit. They can also seize solid, causing excessive fan noise and unnecessary load.
A rattle from the front of the engine when starting from cold can be the result of a tired timing chain tensioner. In any case, it's worth replacing it for peace of mind. The tensioner from a later S50B32, costing £80, can be used.
A particularly loud idle that fades after a few minutes is sometimes diagnosed as a cracked exhaust manifold. It is often, however, the normal function of the M5's emissions-reducing secondary air injection pump. It can be deleted if desired, though.
Both the five- and six-speed gearboxes are durable and the clutch action on an E34 should be comparatively light and smooth. The differential is also very stout and should prove trouble-free.
E34 M5s, with a modicum of care, are capable of enduring high mileages. Unless resale value is a key concern, don't discount good high-mileage examples.
Suspension and steering
Both 3.5- and 3.8-litre M5s have a self-levelling suspension set-up at the back. The dampers themselves can leak; refurbishment is your best option here, as new units are few and far between. Leaks can also develop in the hydraulic lines that supply them, while a sagging rear end can be the result of failing accumulators or a knackered regulating valve.
The 3.8s also feature 'Electronic Damping Control' and the dampers used in this system are ruinously expensive if you want to replace them with original items. If the car has an EDC mode switch, operate it during the test drive and make sure you can feel a difference between the two modes. If the dampers are not functioning properly refurbishment by a specialist such as Nagengast is your best option. In either instance, with regards to ditching the SLS or EDC, replacing with an aftermarket alternative is not a straightforward or inexpensive option.
Age and neglect will have taken its toll on many an E34 M5, with worn bushes and shot ball joints resulting in odd noises and sloppy handling. Fortunately, suspension and steering components are easy to find and not overly costly. While sorting all of the above can be prohibitively expensive, a car that's been cared for properly shouldn't be too problematic.
The E34 M5's fast-ratio recirculating ball steering box can wear, resulting in a noticeable degree of free play. Adjustment is difficult in situ but can remove the slop.
Wheels, tyres and brakes
There were two factory two-piece wheel options, dubbed 'M System I' and 'M System II'. The M System I wheels have distinctive 'turbine' brake cooling ducts in their outer covers, while the M System IIs have 'throwing star'-style covers. Replicas of the M System IIs are around but they are cast as one piece, so easy to identify.
The standard wheel size was initially 8Jx17 all round, with optional 9Js for the rear in both M System I and II designs - with 9J being standard on some limited-production editions. Tyre sizes for the 8Js were 235/45 ZR17s, while the 9J wheels are shod with 255/40 ZR17s. Expect to pay upwards of £120 for a brand-name tyre, in any case.
Later cars featured staggered 'M Parallel' wheels, which use 245/40 ZR18s all round. Suitable tyres command a slightly higher price of around £150. In any case, check the wear pattern on the tyres - as issues here can indicate tracking or bush-related problems. Good tyres and signs of proper alignment are indicative of a well-maintained M5, for one thing.
Brake consumables for the 3.5- and 3.8-litre M5 are readily available; a complete set of brand-name discs and pads for an early M5, for example, will set you back less than £400. Late M5s have floating discs, which often command a premium. Do check the condition of the brake hard lines - as well as the hydraulic and fuel lines - underneath the car, too; replacing these is a costly and time-consuming process.
Search for BMW M5s (E34) here
Search for BMWs here
SPECIFICATION - BMW M5 (E34) 3.5/3.8
Engine: 3,535/3,795cc straight six
Transmission: 5-speed manual (3.5/3.8)/6-speed manual (last year of 3.8 production)
Power (hp): 315/340@6,900rpm
Torque (lb ft): 266/295@4,750rpm
MPG: 23.7mpg/23.5mpg
CO2: N/A
Price new: £43,465/£52,480
Price now: £10,000 upwards
I’ve owned mine for 19 years, it’s been a joy.
If I were a buyer today I would focus mostly on the condition of the sills & floor and also
That the engine is fit and well.
Don’t be afraid of higher mileages, these cars were built at a time
When engineers ruled the factory not accountants.
Here’s a picture of mine, it’s a 5 speed 3.8 litre.
I've seen a few cars recently for £8-£10k and as previously stated, you'll only pay over £20k for a <100k mile car.
Anyway...
I'm a bit of an E34 fanboy but I'll argue til the end of time that these are the best iteration of M5. As with all E34s, rust is the main issue, however, the running costs are often exponentially overstated by too many.
My Dad owned a late 3.8 6spd with Nurburgring package and ran it almost every other day for a couple of years, he's a mechanic so yes he saved a bit on labour but the car never once left him with a shocking bill. Had the EDC gone bad or the floating brake discs needed changing in this time, they would've been rather large bills but everything else was great. It was even better on fuel than my 540i Auto.
I've seen a few cars recently for £8-£10k and as previously stated, you'll only pay over £20k for a <100k mile car.
Anyway...
I'm a bit of an E34 fanboy but I'll argue til the end of time that these are the best iteration of M5. As with all E34s, rust is the main issue, however, the running costs are often exponentially overstated by too many.
My Dad owned a late 3.8 6spd with Nurburgring package and ran it almost every other day for a couple of years, he's a mechanic so yes he saved a bit on labour but the car never once left him with a shocking bill. Had the EDC gone bad or the floating brake discs needed changing in this time, they would've been rather large bills but everything else was great. It was even better on fuel than my 540i Auto.
I've seen a few cars recently for £8-£10k and as previously stated, you'll only pay over £20k for a <100k mile car.
Anyway...
I'm a bit of an E34 fanboy but I'll argue til the end of time that these are the best iteration of M5. As with all E34s, rust is the main issue, however, the running costs are often exponentially overstated by too many.
My Dad owned a late 3.8 6spd with Nurburgring package and ran it almost every other day for a couple of years, he's a mechanic so yes he saved a bit on labour but the car never once left him with a shocking bill. Had the EDC gone bad or the floating brake discs needed changing in this time, they would've been rather large bills but everything else was great. It was even better on fuel than my 540i Auto.
The wrong front bumper (sport rather than //M)
The other car was north of 160k on the clock.
Fine if you want to just smoke about but not ok if you enjoy originality.
Given that high volume E46 M3’s are fetching 10+ these days and
E30 M3’s are north of 50k I think it’s about time the E34 had some recognition for
Being the last hand built Garching car.
Not exactly tripping over them in the classified are we.
The wrong front bumper (sport rather than //M)
The other car was north of 160k on the clock.
Fine if you want to just smoke about but not ok if you enjoy originality.
Given that high volume E46 M3’s are fetching 10+ these days and
E30 M3’s are north of 50k I think it’s about time the E34 had some recognition for
Being the last hand built Garching car.
Not exactly tripping over them in the classified are we.
But... both were trouble. The second one blew a gasket. Darjac Racing stripped the engine, found it had been badly abused and the head skimmed before but not flat. A new short engine was £12k before fitting and ancillaries. The water pump on that blew after 20k miles.
The EDC dampers and SLS suspension are pricey to maintain with age, and the cooling system seemed a little brittle. The auxiliary pump for the heater blew on the first one. Both cars had me going home courtesy of the RAC roughly once each year. Fabulous, but high maintenance despite the quality. The exhaust headers are inconel, almost indestructible but at least £2k each (there are two branches of 3) a few years back, throttle bodies likewise and £1.8 each (3 of them in pairs). Yet a cat back exhaust was <£700 and the ones originally fitted might last 20 years. E34 pattern parts for things like suspension weren’t up to the loads of 1.7 tones and all that power.
When choosing to buy history is everything. Sadly many have not been maintained according to their new value, and even if they look glossy (like my second one), are money pits now.
I regret not getting one though!
It's a 1990 H Reg 3.6 in Macau Blue.
Lovely car, that engine is sublime and the package has a proper old school mechanical feel to it.
Been in dry storage since 2009, but too many other cars and projects have inhibited me to get it out.
One day, hopefully. But, in the mean time, can be safe in the knowledge that it won't be losing any money!
I've seen a few cars recently for £8-£10k and as previously stated, you'll only pay over £20k for a <100k mile car.
Anyway...
I'm a bit of an E34 fanboy but I'll argue til the end of time that these are the best iteration of M5. As with all E34s, rust is the main issue, however, the running costs are often exponentially overstated by too many.
My Dad owned a late 3.8 6spd with Nurburgring package and ran it almost every other day for a couple of years, he's a mechanic so yes he saved a bit on labour but the car never once left him with a shocking bill. Had the EDC gone bad or the floating brake discs needed changing in this time, they would've been rather large bills but everything else was great. It was even better on fuel than my 540i Auto.
I bought a 3.6 as a donor car back in 2011 for £1650. It was a runner with MOT, but needed TLC. Used all the parts I needed and sold it to a chap from Hungary for £2300. He drove it back home.
Now, a non runner would cost you over £8k.
I wish I had bought more of them and stored them away. Suppose that's the car with a lo of classic metal these days.
M635csi are mental money now, and even the non-m E24 are going through the roof.
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff