Fitting a battery isolator switch then locking the car
Discussion
I have a 5 series and the battery is under the back seat, sometimes it doesn't get driven for a few months, on one occasion the battery wouldn't start the car, it was in my garage so it wasn't locked. Now after acquiring a project that is taking up space in the garage I need to park the 5 series on my drive locked(central locking)but want to fit one of these.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Battery-Isolator-Cut-Off...
If I fit it next to the battery then remove the key I assume the central locking won't lock. If I hold the door button down and close the door it won't have the power to unlock later. My car had a flat battery a few years ago and I had hell of a job unlocking it.
What are my options?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Battery-Isolator-Cut-Off...
If I fit it next to the battery then remove the key I assume the central locking won't lock. If I hold the door button down and close the door it won't have the power to unlock later. My car had a flat battery a few years ago and I had hell of a job unlocking it.
What are my options?
Edited by Mr Green on Wednesday 9th December 16:07
Does it have door locks and a key boot release? If it's anything like most of the cars I've used, I'd say lock the doors with the key (which should mean no alarm), open the boot (which shouldn't unlock the central locking), Switch off red key, shut boot, lock boot with key.
Edited by The Wookie on Wednesday 9th December 16:16
I fitted one of those to my Z1 (battery also behind seat) because obviously flat batteries aren't clever on a car with electrically-operated doors.
I fitted it the boot, which can be unlocked with the key separately, thus giving easy access to the switch without locking/unlocking the rest of the car.
Even if your 5-series has the modern type of slot key, presumably you can lock and unlock it with the pull-out blade?
I fitted it the boot, which can be unlocked with the key separately, thus giving easy access to the switch without locking/unlocking the rest of the car.
Even if your 5-series has the modern type of slot key, presumably you can lock and unlock it with the pull-out blade?
dern said:
Forget the isolator and get a solar charger from maplins.
This is my project.So I will need to fit an Isolator switch to this eventually, it hasn't even got a steering lock. Those solar chargers seem like a good idea but I also want to put a carport(for shade) on the drive next year.
eldar said:
Wire a 30a fuse across the terminals on the switch. When you turn it off, it will still allow the alarm and the like to work.
If someone tries to start it, the fuse blows, and all goes dead.
An ingenious anti-theft plan, however a bit of a Baldrick plan for preventing the battery going dead over a period as the alarm drains it If someone tries to start it, the fuse blows, and all goes dead.
With the key?
My 2009 BMW 1-series has the slot key, but there's a normal keyblade tucked away inside and there is a perfectly serviceable keyhole in the drivers door and the boot lid which it can be used it to unlock the car. I don't imagine it works differently on a modern 5-series.
My 2009 BMW 1-series has the slot key, but there's a normal keyblade tucked away inside and there is a perfectly serviceable keyhole in the drivers door and the boot lid which it can be used it to unlock the car. I don't imagine it works differently on a modern 5-series.
Edited by RacingTeatray on Wednesday 9th December 17:09
you could use one of these instead , it has a by pass fuse to keep alarm and central locking working but the fuse blows if you try to start the car ,but it doesn't stop the battery from draining over a period of time . should keep insurance happy for one thing .
http://gbdriver.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_...
http://gbdriver.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_...
Edited by x type on Wednesday 9th December 18:23
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