Problem with window drop upon opening on 996

Problem with window drop upon opening on 996

Author
Discussion

NBTBRV8

Original Poster:

1,949 posts

153 months

Sunday 5th December 2010
quotequote all
Guys,

The passenger side window on my car isn't dropping. When I pull the handle the motor works but the glass only drops a mm or two a best. Has anyone else had this and fixed it? I am wondering if the window needs its travel points reteaching. The window works fine when you push the button both up and down. Any clues?

Drivers door - as it should be:



Passenger's door - motor works, but glass barely drops:


_gez_

1,013 posts

139 months

Sunday 5th December 2010
quotequote all
The reteach is simple. With the door shut close the window and then hold the button for a couple of seconds.

From what I understand the normal issue is when the window doesn't drop at all and I think that is a microswitch issue. The fact that yours is dropping is strange.

Pope

2,246 posts

192 months

Sunday 5th December 2010
quotequote all
The 'comfort drop' is controlled by a PWM signal to the window motor that gives the dropping amount, any descrepancy may indicate a fault in the motor or an adjustment fault. Has the window in question always been so? If it has the regulator may have been incorrectly set but try the following just in case.

The window 'stops' are stored in the window motor module. After deletion, they can be relearnt by a process of pressing and holding the switches.

To delete the stored positions, disconnect the battery:

Note:
In order to avoid triggering the alarm siren (installed on right next to the battery) of vehicles with M 536, the battery must be disconnected with the ignition on (all loads must be switched off beforehand):

Engine 'off', Ignition 'on' (running position with all ignition lights on), pop front lid, remove battery cover, remove negative lead (drivers side lead in a RHD car - 10mm fixing) from battery for 30 seconds (no figures are given but 30 seconds will be fine). Switch off ignition then reconnect the battery.

The memories for windows, DME, throttle (e-gas cars), radio (non MOST) and other ECU's will be lost.

To reteach:

DME control module:
After disconnection of the power supply, the idle speed might change or fluctuate briefly until the idle speed positioner (M 5.2) or the throttle adjusting unit (ME 7.2) is readapted. The mixture adaptation is also lost.
Remedy:
After the battery is connected:
With the DME ME 7.2 (e-gas cars), it is necessary to carry out a learning and adaptation routine as described below:
– Switch the ignition on for 1 minute without starting the engine. Do not operate accelerator pedal.
– Switch off ignition for at least 10 seconds.

This completes the adaptation of the throttle adjusting unit.
With all DME systems, the engine must run for several minutes before the engine control module can relearn the idle speed and mixture adaptation values.

Tiptronic:
The stored pressure adaptation valves are lost if the power supply to terminal 30 is interrupted.
This can result in poor shifting quality and rough shift operations during the adaptation phase.
Remedy:
Perform a test drive. During the test drive, drive the vehicle with varying load conditions and at various speeds so that all shift functions (manual and automatic programs) are executed at least once. This readapts the shifting pressures of the system and thereby re-establishes smooth shifting.

Power windows:
The limit positions of the power windows are deleted from the control module when the battery is disconnected and connected.
Remedy:
Manually close each power window as far as it will go, then press the rocker switch for closing the window again. The limit position of the respective power window is now stored in the control module again.

Instrument cluster:
The trip counter is set to 0 when the power supply is disconnected.

Clock:
Depending on the software version, the clock is set to 12:00 a.m. or 1:00 a.m. when the power supply is disconnected.
Remedy:
Enter the current time again.

On-board computer:
Disconnection of the vehicle battery deletes the memories for average speed and average consumption.
As a result, the displayed range on remaining fuel can be markedly different or even 0. Depending on model year or spec. the fuel guage reading may be set to zero and fuel light may illuminate, in this case refuel at least 25 litres at next opportunity - note level prior to disconnection.

The outside temperature indicator loses its memory effect. In other words, the indicated outside temperature can be too high due to the heat radiated when the vehicle is hot.

Radio (Non MOST):
The radio reverts to the Code function when the battery is disconnected and is thus no longer ready for operation.
Remedy:
Input the radio code. If the code card is unavailable, the radio code can be read from the DME control module (under "Vehicle data"). The code is also available from the Porsche IPAS.

PCM (Non MOST):
1. The PCM reverts to the Code input function when the battery is disconnected and is thus no longer ready for operation.
2. When the power supply is disconnected, the built-in GPS receiver loses the so-called "almanac" containing the satellite orbital paths.
3. The date and time are deleted when the battery is disconnected.
4. Radio stations are no longer displayed.
5. If the telephone card was inserted and the telephone was ready for operation, the telephone is subsequently disabled.

Remedy:
Input the PCM code.
Switch on the PCM with a free panoramic view for approx. 20 minutes (to load GPS almanac).
The date and time are also adopted once the GPS almanac has been loaded (see step 2); it may be necessary to change over to summer time (daylight-saving time). This time is transferred to the instrument cluster. If the time is then manually changed by means of the instrument cluster, this time is adopted by the PCM and synchronised with GPS time.
The stored stations are displayed again when station buttons 1 to 6 are pressed.


Once that mammoth task is complete wink check the original issue !!

If the same situation is apparent there may be an issue with the microswitches (resistance in the switches or wiring) or a motor fault.

HTH

tu9bas

51 posts

138 months

Monday 6th December 2010
quotequote all
I had the same problem on a 2003 996 C4S, had to change the motor, found a second hand Boxter motor that did the job. Until it was replaced had to manually shut window using switch inside the car........right pain until sorted. Good luck.

NBTBRV8

Original Poster:

1,949 posts

153 months

Monday 6th December 2010
quotequote all
tu9bas said:
I had the same problem on a 2003 996 C4S, had to change the motor, found a second hand Boxter motor that did the job. Until it was replaced had to manually shut window using switch inside the car........right pain until sorted. Good luck.
So yours still worked fine with the switch, just not the convenience opening, like mine? How hard was it to change the motor? It seems strange that I can hear the motor try to drop the glass and that it works fine with the switch.

NBTBRV8

Original Poster:

1,949 posts

153 months

Saturday 6th August 2011
quotequote all
Just reviving my old thread here, I haven't resolved this yet and need to pull the door trim off. But I have established that the rear of the window drops but not the front and you can push the front of the window down the 10mm or so that the regulator has dropped. I presume that there is either a clip broken on the bottom of the glass or the regulator needs some form of adjustment where it connects to the glass at the front.

So before I pull my door trim off does anyone have any experience with this?

Pope

2,246 posts

192 months

Saturday 6th August 2011
quotequote all
This issue hasn't bothered you then smile

The window is held onto the regulator by a clamp arrangement by the sounds of it the clamp is either not holding the glass or the regulator cable is loose.

I wouldn't suggest pulling the window too much while the panel is still fitted - in case the glass comes away from the clamp and you're left juggling the glass half-in half-out.

Are there any crunching noises when the window is operated through its full range of movement? If there is the regulator is on its way out - less than a hundred quid but always replace the door membrane if you don't want soggy door panels.......

NBTBRV8

Original Poster:

1,949 posts

153 months

Saturday 13th August 2011
quotequote all
I pulled the trim off today to have a look at it and it appears as though the window regulator cable has stretched, so I have ordered a new one.

Does anyone know a good detailed DIY on how to replace?

NBTBRV8

Original Poster:

1,949 posts

153 months

Saturday 17th September 2011
quotequote all
I have received my new regulator, just need to have a go at fitting it now, anyone got any advice? Here is the problem, the cable that controls the front of the glass has stretched.


NBTBRV8

Original Poster:

1,949 posts

153 months

Saturday 24th September 2011
quotequote all
I fitted the new regulator today and everything went well, my window now drops front and back when you pull the handle, as apposed to just the back of the glass previously. Now I am having troubles teaching it the limit position but I will work on this. As there is very little on the net in the form of a DIY basically you need to:

1.Remove the speaker.
2.Lift back the foam door card seal.
3.With the window raised remove the two oval rubber caps near the top of the door at the front and back above the foam seal line.
4.Undo the two torx screws these these expose.
5.Lift the glass up out of the door.
6.Press the down switch and drop the window mechanism.
7.Remove two more oval rubber caps from underneath the doors to expose two nuts.
8.Before undoing the nuts get a pencil or scribe and mark where the mechanism bolts in the bottom of the door to save you playing with the adjustment after fitting the new one.
9.Undo the two nuts underneath the doors and two more of the same nuts at the top of the doors.
10.Undo the three bolts holding the window motor to the door.
11.Cut or unclip the cable tie underneath the airbag holding the regulator cable in place
12.Remove the window regulator and motor in one piece from the door.
13.With the regulator on the ground undo the three 13mm bolt/studs that hold the motor to the regulator. Take note of its orientation.
14.Where the motor bolts in to the plate on the new regulator the holes aren't tapped. I tapped mine, but you may be able to cut a thread with the bolt if you are lucky and don't strip it. I would highly advise cutting the thread though.
15.Bolt the motor to the new regulator and on the 996 remove the top white window stop at the front/bottom of the regulator, if unsure you will see it when you let the window down for the first time.
16.Fit the new regulator in the door and line up the bottom of it in the adjustment grooves where you marked the door before removal. Tighten the 4 nuts that hold the regulator in and the three that hold the motor in.
17.Drop the glass in the top of the door and sit it in the regulator, don't tighten it up in the clamps yet. Look to see where the glass was clamped before and align this up.
18.Wind the window up.
19.Make sure the glass is pushed forward in the channel and then put a screw driver in the door latch and close the latch so the glass goes up that bit higher (as if the door was closed)
20.Tighen the glass clamps through the holes that the oval caps cover.
21.Check the operation, if unsure about the window stop wind the window down all the way and you will see that it sticks up above the door i.e. doesn't go all the way in to the door. Look at the front of the regulator down the boot and you will see that there are two window stops. The glass is hitting the higher one of the two which is for the Boxster I think. Remove the top window stop by undoing the torx screw.
22.Now everything should be fine, check operation and be careful when you first close the door to make sure the glass isn't too high.

Refit everything up and do the reteach. Probably allow about 2-3 hours if you haven't done one before.