tamiya 1/10 rc car faster

[Simond001]

wacattack said:

Simond001 said:

shanus mcanus said:

wow!! you lot sound like you know wot youre on about!! Good! Been given a tl-01 myself and have found that when i push the forward control all the way forward car cuts out. Its got a brush type speed contoller operated by an acoms AS 12 IC servo. Can anyone help? Also if im looking to upgrade in the future how do i know which motor goes with which speed controller? What is meant by "turns" regarding motors? Having not had the pleasure of building the thing myself how difficult is it to change all the bearings? If you could shed some light on this i would be most greatful. If your someone who is itching to share your years of knowledge on this subject and you wanna tell me loads of stuff that would be even better. feel free to waffle, waffling is good! thanks shane

To start, please use punctuation and the English language. It makes it so much easier to read.

As already stated the sweep type speed controller is controlled by the arm on the servo. Once you have the servo arm in the centre point on the controller you can then move the linkage toward to the centre spline for less rotation, or away for more. This may assist in keeping the arm on the board and stopping it going too far. If your transmitter has end point adjustment that will negate the need for any of this.

Regarding motors the cars come as standard with a silver. Obvious first upgrade is the black can style motor. http://www.pit-bitz.com/product_info.php?cPath=37_... cheap and about 25% more top end. Will also work ok without overheating your speedo wires.

Anything more than that I'd suggest looking at an electronic speedo, at this point either the budget ezyrun brushless system or a brushed solution would be fine. At your local club you will pick up a speedo and motor for next to nothing as nearly all racers have loads of uncompetitive spares. Still plenty fast enough for that chassis though.

Bearings. Cleaning and rebuilding the car is a great way to understand how they work. I would suggest starting at the outer extremeties (the wheels) and working inwards. Even if you do this over a few sessions and rebuild after each stage it will help you as building the car becomes second nature. Tamiya bearings are ridiculously expensive. I think we sell them for about £9 for a full set for that car.

Edited by Simond001 on Friday 6th August 13:04

Don't you mean "It will" rather than starting the sentence "Will"
Also, when you say "Regarding motors the cars come as standard with a silver" you forgot your comma after motors and you finished the sentence with "silver", a silver what?

Concentrate on your own grammar before you go criticising others

It has been amended and I appreciate the feedback. On the same note you should possibly heed your own advice as a sentence cannot end without punctuation. Either a full stop or question is required after "Will" and again after "others".

[shanus mcanus]

Please keep it civil!

Edited by Big Al. on Wednesday 11th August 08:22

[Simond001]

On a positive note at least you started your tirade with some grammar. Well done, and welcome to pistonheads. You may wish to read http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/rules.htm at some point though.

On a personal note I had a fantastic day. I collected my car from the garage where it has had the stone chips removed. It looks fantastic again. Hopefully tomorrow will be a fine day and I can pop out to lunch somewhere.

This evening I have rebuilt the shock on my 1/10th WGT and cleaned the gearbox and diff on the Tamiya Mini. Ihave also changed the rear toe in to 1.5 as I think the 2 degree hubs were scrubbing too much speed. We'll see the results at the track tomorrow.