Chassis Refurb

[ukkid35]

Jonbouy said:

Good mix of Poly and Rubber you have there.

Are those AP refurb kits? I've just replaced some seals on my other car's Brembos, so I'd be interesting in hearing how that goes.

Those front drop links seem to be worth the premium, much better quality that the originals.

Assuming you are going to start the build up body off, make sure the bolt orientation is correct because there's not that much space for an angle grinder if you were to need one later on.

[Jonbouy]

ukkid35 said:

Good mix of Poly and Rubber you have there.

Are those AP refurb kits? I've just replaced some seals on my other car's Brembos, so I'd be interesting in hearing how that goes.

Those front drop links seem to be worth the premium, much better quality that the originals.

Assuming you are going to start the build up body off, make sure the bolt orientation is correct because there's not that much space for an angle grinder if you were to need one later on.

Yeah I bought a full set of seals from AP, I thought I may as well refurb them whilst they were off. I replaced all the seals assembled using red rubber grease, also changed the bleed nipples, primed and painted 2k red.

[Jonbouy]

The diff input and output seals were changed, it had taken sometime to clean the diff but it was worth it with the result, again primed and painted 2k black

[Jonbouy]

I also sent a few bits off to the platers for refurbishment and plating

[ukkid35]

Jonbouy said:

Shame we have to put up with drilled discs

[aide]

Might be worth sending your propshaft to Dave Mac to have it balanced.
All the details on this thread.
Aide

[FarmyardPants]

Jonbouy said:

Looks really nice, but didn't I read somewhere it was a bad idea to paint the wheel-hub contact surface, something to do with heat softening the paint causing wheel nuts to loosen? Looks like you masked this area off (first pic), but then painted it anyway?

[Incognegro]

FarmyardPants said:

Jonbouy said:

Looks really nice, but didn't I read somewhere it was a bad idea to paint the wheel-hub contact surface, something to do with heat softening the paint causing wheel nuts to loosen? Looks like you masked this area off (first pic), but then painted it anyway?

As per another recent post Farmy your thinking the same as me. I recently did something similar to my drilled rear discs however I decided to leave the flat part that contacts the wheel for the same reason you mention.

Im sure I have had discs in the past that were painted on that area (by someone else) that had no issues?

[jamieduff1981]

Absolutely no issues with mine either ...

[TwinKam]

...just don't want it too thick! Maybe that's why Jon masked that face off, then exposed it for the final coat...
Most good quality discs come ready 'coated' these days as a rusty disc bell viewed through an open pattern alloy is not what most peeps want to see.

[Jonbouy]

In further preparation I needed to paint some other parts, hub plate, anti-roll-bars, new battery tray, radiator brackets. I cleaned them up using a wire wheel, then soaked them in POR15 metal ready to lightly zinc the surface. They came up well.







after cleaning



soaked in the POR15 metal ready for one hour



after cleaning with water, now ready for painting

[Jonbouy]

aide said:

Might be worth sending your propshaft to Dave Mac to have it balanced.
All the details on this thread.
Aide

Thanks Aide, will have a read

[Jonbouy]

Parts painted again, as with the others two coats of 2k primer and two-three coats of either 2k black or white gloss



The ARBs were zinc plasma sprayed along with all the other major suspension components

[CHIMV8 500]

What a great thread,keep the pics coming,shes going to be brand new when you have finished

[Poopdog]

Did you prime the calipers with any special paint?,I'm doing mine so any info would be great

[Jonbouy]

CHIMV8 500 said:

What a great thread,keep the pics coming,shes going to be brand new when you have finished

Thanks

[Jonbouy]

Poopdog said:

Did you prime the calipers with any special paint?,I'm doing mine so any info would be great

I used an etching primer then 2k top coat, I looked at lots of different paints including caliper paint and I think 2k takes some beating so I went with that.

[Jonbouy]

Moving on, I wanted to start getting the diff ready for refitting

With all the seals changed it was ready to go, again all new nuts bolts and washers etc used.



It was very awkward trying to lift the diff into place whilst not catching any of the paint on the chassis or diff its self, managed it though, in the end.



I even had my wife do the paint detailing in white on top of the diff







re-plated input shafts



I used polyurethane bush's for the diff mounts from iv read on here it seems to be the way to go.

[Jonbouy]

Next I moved onto the driveshafts, from all the effort I put in with painting the diff I wanted to apply the same process to them. There were plenty of people saying 'why are you making all that effort when know one is going to see it?' 1. I felt better knowing it was done 2. the car deserves it.

So I stripped the driveshafts completely, inspected everything, cleaned, painted and rebuilt

before







the rebuild, new grease, boots and I also wanted to use the crimp type boot clips to look original as possible







all the driveshaft bolts were cleaned, and lightly coated with some hammerite on the cap end, hope you guys like my egg box use







after

now for fitting the driveshafts and all the rear uprights, shocks and wishbones with all new bush's and bolts used. I also had the washer re-plated which secures the driveshaft.





I think that the finish came up well









thanks for reading

Edited by Jonbouy on Tuesday 8th November 19:32

[ukkid35]

Nice work, but mount the Speedo Sensor on the passenger side, there is less run-off on that side, which is what the later cars use. The sensor will last longer that way (not my tip, but from remap guru Joolz).