diff crusher tube

[bluezeeland]

My '93 Griffith 430 has a leaking GKN diff pinion seal which needs renewing. When doing so, do I need to renew the tube crush washer too ? The method to re-set the preload is known to me. The tube, on drawing seems to be in between the inner and outer bearing, in which case it cannot/need be changed, is this correct ?

[Pete Mac]

bluezeeland said:

My '93 Griffith 430 has a leaking GKN diff pinion seal which needs renewing. When doing so, do I need to renew the tube crush washer too ? The method to re-set the preload is known to me. The tube, on drawing seems to be in between the inner and outer bearing, in which case it cannot/need be changed, is this correct ?

Frank, not sure quite what your question is but if I had the diff out and apart I would change the bearings and the crush spacer. At approximately €15 for the crush spacer, why wouldn't you?

See following thread

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=158...

Pete

[bluezeeland]

Hi Pete,

Cost for the crush spacer isn't much, granted, but the diff is NOT out, and I would rather keep it that way, if at all possible...

I've changed the LH drive-shaft oil seal, in situ, which did leak, and is now sorted.

Today, I had another crawl under the car, and I'm not so sure anymore it is the front, pinion seal which is leaking, having said that; I do not know what is ....

In all, the leak isn't bad (hadn't had to top up after last weekends 1200 kms..) but it is just one of those little niggles which is becoming a crusade...

As I found out the reverse switch in my car is a micro-switch thingy (iso the LR part) and only reachable from underneath, I'm planning to take the exhaust off, renew the switch and inspect the diff & all, and repair were needed,

I've been indeed pointed to John Reid, will give him a call, but the crusher looks, on drawing, to be between the inner/outer bearing, which won't come out in situ anyway, as said I do know the method of re-setting the pre-load...

Thanks for your advise, will report outcome !

Frank

[Sardonicus]

Index the nut to shaft relation accurately counting the turns of the nut as you remove it on renewal of the tired seal refit prop-flange etc tighten nut to previous indexed mark plus a further 5/10 degrees approx this will pull the whole lot together without compromising bearing pre-load (the collapsible spacer its a crap idea really) you have just added a fraction of pre-load but very small (never ever had issue doing things this way on various Fords etc) whats worse is not pulling the assembly together again (nut not indexed) where the whole pinion assembly just frets & thrashes around creating damage to the bearings and crown-wheel and pinion etc over pre-loading will bare similar results inc bearings collapsing etc, use some non-permanent Loctite or similar on the nut too as always cleanliness is key

[bluezeeland]

Excellent, txs, Simon !

[bluezeeland]

After a lot of crawling about.....found the pinion to be dry, so

- both drive-shafts dry

- Pinion dry

- Filler and drain-plug tight (and dry)

- found some oil on the brake-lines, but not apparent to leak (not above, not away from any jointing)

left with;

- breather (can see or reach it without a ramp)

- gasket between body and rear cover

Frank