Chimaera Battery
Discussion
Search the archives
but quickly
Undo 2 13mm bolts under the passenger footwell, you can then move the battery box and see whxt you're doing
remove connections and remove the battery still in the box
get the battery out of the box and get a new one (most places have listings (it's the same as the most common Range Rover))
Bung it all back together
but quickly
Undo 2 13mm bolts under the passenger footwell, you can then move the battery box and see whxt you're doing
remove connections and remove the battery still in the box
get the battery out of the box and get a new one (most places have listings (it's the same as the most common Range Rover))
Bung it all back together
Incorrigible said:
Search the archives
but quickly
Undo 2 13mm bolts under the passenger footwell, you can then move the battery box and see whxt you're doing
remove connections and remove the battery still in the box
get the battery out of the box and get a new one (most places have listings (it's the same as the most common Range Rover))
Bung it all back together
Aahh.. they made it so complicated with the later ones didn't they Ben..
Go to www.tvrbooks.co.uk and download the Griff/Chimaera sample chapter... happens to be all about batteries etc etc etc.
Steve
Steve
Thanks to M&H,Incorrigible,Simpo two, big treacle,gaston, ropey & shpub for your replies.
If any one else is thinking of changing battry on a Chimaera it's not to bad. The following refers to a late 1998 Chim. 1st tip is leave yourself plenty of time and remove the Ign key and place with alarm remote safely in pocket, as when you reconnect the battery the doors may lock and the alarm will activate. The battery is located in the passenger footwell behind the carpet near the engine bay and is housed in a glass fibre box. Remove carpet, remove ECU and wiring loom out of the way (taking note of how the ECU and wiring fits on top of battery box, This helps when trying to put everything back together.) Mark the floor in front of the battery box, this will help when replacing battery box. The battery box is held in place by two 13mm bolts, these are accessed from underneath the car. Once bolts removed, battery box can be pulled forward and battery removed (always remove negitive terminal first.) The battery may be held in the battety box by a cover which is riveted to the battery box, this is in place to stop the battery falling out if the car should turn over. If this cover is in place you will have to drill out the rivets to remonve the battery, it may be possiable to replace cover with self tapping screws, but make sure screws are not too long and hit battery. Once battery is replaced refit battery terminals Positive terminal first. Check car starts and all elects work, if OK refit box and replace the two 13mm bolts, using a small amount of sealant. Ensure all relays and ECU connections are tight and then refit ECU, relays and carpet.
Make sure you purchase a 072 battery as some of the ones being sold by factors are not the same size and will not fit in the battery box. Also 072 equates to a 630amp which is the right capacity for turning over a large TVR engine.
I managed to buy one for £49.00 inc VAT from a local shop in Farnham Surrey.
If any one else is thinking of changing battry on a Chimaera it's not to bad. The following refers to a late 1998 Chim. 1st tip is leave yourself plenty of time and remove the Ign key and place with alarm remote safely in pocket, as when you reconnect the battery the doors may lock and the alarm will activate. The battery is located in the passenger footwell behind the carpet near the engine bay and is housed in a glass fibre box. Remove carpet, remove ECU and wiring loom out of the way (taking note of how the ECU and wiring fits on top of battery box, This helps when trying to put everything back together.) Mark the floor in front of the battery box, this will help when replacing battery box. The battery box is held in place by two 13mm bolts, these are accessed from underneath the car. Once bolts removed, battery box can be pulled forward and battery removed (always remove negitive terminal first.) The battery may be held in the battety box by a cover which is riveted to the battery box, this is in place to stop the battery falling out if the car should turn over. If this cover is in place you will have to drill out the rivets to remonve the battery, it may be possiable to replace cover with self tapping screws, but make sure screws are not too long and hit battery. Once battery is replaced refit battery terminals Positive terminal first. Check car starts and all elects work, if OK refit box and replace the two 13mm bolts, using a small amount of sealant. Ensure all relays and ECU connections are tight and then refit ECU, relays and carpet.
Make sure you purchase a 072 battery as some of the ones being sold by factors are not the same size and will not fit in the battery box. Also 072 equates to a 630amp which is the right capacity for turning over a large TVR engine.
I managed to buy one for £49.00 inc VAT from a local shop in Farnham Surrey.
Not recomended, but at a push you may be able to disconnect the battery without removing the battery box, but you will need a spanner bent to fit as there is only a small distance between terminal and top of foot well. You must disconnect Negitive first, and this is the hardest one as it is @ the back.
I disconnected mine easily enough to fix an alarm problem (which had gone to sleep after a dead battery situation). A bit on the awkward side but just used ordinary spanners out of my regular tool kit.
Today I discovered I have a flat battery again (not used for 6 weeks but had Draper Battery-Master connected). Battery inaccessable as car in garage nearside to wall. Proper charger connected to alternator for 8 hrs so battery now has charge. Alarm needs resetting again but engine will not crank!Fuel pump primes, but nothing at all when I turn key.
Immobiliser gone to sleep? Any other ideas?
Today I discovered I have a flat battery again (not used for 6 weeks but had Draper Battery-Master connected). Battery inaccessable as car in garage nearside to wall. Proper charger connected to alternator for 8 hrs so battery now has charge. Alarm needs resetting again but engine will not crank!Fuel pump primes, but nothing at all when I turn key.
Immobiliser gone to sleep? Any other ideas?
Sounds like with that charging problem it would be worth checking the Fuse Link that protects the alternator - details here www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=41913&f=13&h=0&hw=fuse+link
Also perhaps the earth is insufficient for turning the engine over on the starter motor even though there's enough current to prime the fuel pump.
It's been said often enough on here in the past but just for the new comers shorting out the alternator by catching the lead while using the alternator as a convenient charging terminal is highly dangerous and the arc produced can melt the alternator, the loom and just about anything else within a five mile radius.
Also perhaps the earth is insufficient for turning the engine over on the starter motor even though there's enough current to prime the fuel pump.
It's been said often enough on here in the past but just for the new comers shorting out the alternator by catching the lead while using the alternator as a convenient charging terminal is highly dangerous and the arc produced can melt the alternator, the loom and just about anything else within a five mile radius.
nigelr said:
Not recomended, but at a push you may be able to disconnect the battery without removing the battery box, but you will need a spanner bent to fit as there is only a small distance between terminal and top of foot well. You must disconnect Negitive first, and this is the hardest one as it is @ the back.
at the back? my battery sits sideways so i put it in so as the terminals were nearest the front of the tray
oh, and I picked up a Fiam 580A battery (its an earlier chim so a smaller box) for £22.
hut49 said:
Sounds like with that charging problem it would be worth checking the Fuse Link that protects the alternator - details here www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=41913&f=13&h=0&hw=fuse+link
Also perhaps the earth is insufficient for turning the engine over on the starter motor even though there's enough current to prime the fuel pump.
It's been said often enough on here in the past but just for the new comers shorting out the alternator by catching the lead while using the alternator as a convenient charging terminal is highly dangerous and the arc produced can melt the alternator, the loom and just about anything else within a five mile radius.
Hear what you say Hut, and wouldn't recommend it in writing. But I'm experienced enough to prevent anything utoward happening whilst charging at this location. Besides - I CAN'T get to the battery at the mo'. I've dropped the charge to about 0.5A and will probably disconnect it tomorrow night and try again. No confidence tho' - I'm sure it's alarm/immob. problem.
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