Sump Gasket - What's best?

[Malcster]

Hi Guys, I've seen a good few threads on this, but can find one definitive answer!

What is the best way to seal the sump pan, for leak free longevity ?

Just high-temp silicon?

Cork Gasket + smear of silicon (both sides)?

New fangled (10x price of cork) ebay rubber gasket?

I guess the easiest would be simply silicon only - no chance of snagging the gasket etc? How much would be needed? How big a tube?

Cheers!

[phazed]

speaking to a Rover engine specialist, they only use a special engine silicon. (Dirko-S).

I've used this and there hasn't been a drop.

The early 3.5s never used a gasket when factory built iirc.

Thoroughly clean the surfaces, use the Dirko-S, bolt up lightly, allow to set for several hours and retighten.

I believe it's best to use a little threadlock as the sump bolts often loosen.

Having used gaskets over the years, this has been the best by far, just don't use too much!

[TVR Beaver]

+1 but I use Loctite 5900.. not a drop.. and it's stuck for good as you have to cut the things off if you need to.
The sump can also add strength to the bottom end (okay, only a bit) but with gaskets etc your not getting this...
Get it stuck on solid

you can also use studs and flange nuts to make life easier

[Hedgehopper]

This bridging plate was recently mentioned on Pistonheads. Supposed to spread the clamping force across the rear of the sump joint where the studs are further apart. Available from Rimmers (603943).

[Malcster]

Well, I have some of this kicking around the garage:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-HEAT-RESISTANT-SIL...

I might give it a shot with this HT-30, and see hwo it goes?
Or do you think I'd just be wasting my time?

I'll need to order up the Dirko-S stuff.

So in the end, we reckon there is no point in using a solid gasket of any type? Just going for sealent etc instead?

[Malcster]

Hedgehopper said:

This bridging plate was recently mentioned on Pistonheads. Supposed to spread the clamping force across the rear of the sump joint where the studs are further apart. Available from Rimmers (603943).

Yep - i've ordered up a spreader plate too!

[SILICONEKID343HP]

You know what happens when applying to much silicone ,would rather leave mine leaking .

[Chuffmeister]

The fibre gasket off Ebay does the trick. I've had the sump off three times and re-used the gasket and have no leaks...

[TVR Beaver]

Loctite 5900 available at Halfords

[Malcster]

Chuffmeister said:

The fibre gasket off Ebay does the trick. I've had the sump off three times and re-used the gasket and have no leaks...

Do you have a link to this?
Did you smear with a little silicon for good measure too?

[Chuffmeister]

Malcster said:

Do you have a link to this?
Did you smear with a little silicon for good measure too?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-MARCOS-MGB-MORGAN-P5...

A thin smear of Hylomar should do. Thread lock on the bolts should help as well.

As it happens, I purchased new bolts, spring washers and the spreader plate from Rimmer Bros. The two bolts that fit into the spreader plate at the rear of the sump are slightly longer than the rest. I think the new bolts and washers came to few £'s, however, the spring washers on the old bolts were pretty much shot and couldn't be removed from the bolt.

[zed4]

Is this the gasket?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121187219865

Seems expensive! I've bought the bracket from Rimmers, and need a gasket too.

[Chuffmeister]

zed4 said:

Is this the gasket?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121187219865

Seems expensive! I've bought the bracket from Rimmers, and need a gasket too.

No, the fibre one above...

[ChimpOnGas]

The Rover SD1 spreader plate is your friend in the war against oil leaks on these cars.

I never understood why it got deleted, those rear bolts are way too far apart to apply a decent amount of pressure on the gasket in that area without the spreader plate.

I just fitted two allen studs in place of the rear bolts, the SD1 spreader plate, then carefully pinched it all up using Nylock flanged nuts.

Nylock nuts serve to stop oil passing down the threads.

Not a drop since doing this & I never even bothered to replace the old failed gasket.

Worked for me, I'm pleased to see others are picking up on it since my original post

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=126...

[zed4]

I've removed my sump today and painted the outside. It had been siliconed on and took ages to clean it all off. It's all done now and I've painted it, just waiting for my new gasket to arrive tomorrow. I have the spreader plate which I ordered from Rimmers, but I've just realised the bolts won't be long enough!

Where did you get the stud from?

[Sardonicus]

zed4 said:

I've removed my sump today and painted the outside. It had been siliconed on and took ages to clean it all off. It's all done now and I've painted it, just waiting for my new gasket to arrive tomorrow. I have the spreader plate which I ordered from Rimmers, but I've just realised the bolts won't be long enough!

Where did you get the stud from?

Look up 5/16 UNC on this site http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/

[AV8]

SILICONEKID343HP said:

You know what happens when applying to much silicone ,would rather leave mine leaking .

Very true. Bits of silicone will very quickly block the oil pickup.

I did mine a few months ago with a cork land rover gasket I got on eBay for 3.50 and a thin bead of hylomar either side. So far so good.
It had previously been sealed with a heavy red silicone type material.

[Chuffmeister]

zed4 said:

I've removed my sump today and painted the outside. It had been siliconed on and took ages to clean it all off. It's all done now and I've painted it, just waiting for my new gasket to arrive tomorrow. I have the spreader plate which I ordered from Rimmers, but I've just realised the bolts won't be long enough!

Where did you get the stud from?

Rimmers do two different size of bolt. Have a look at the diagram. I think you will find the part number is 603944. The normal bolts are SH505051. Or follow the link Sardonicus has provided. From what I remember, the bolts are all imperial sizes.

[zed4]

That bolt is unavailable from Rimmers.

So I could either buy these:

http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/5-16-UNC-x-1-1-2-Sock...

Is that long enough?

Or this kit:

http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Rover-V8-Sump-Bolt-Ki...

Best to use two new studs and the rest of the old bolts, or all new stainless steel bolts?

[Chuffmeister]

zed4 said:

That bolt is unavailable from Rimmers.

So I could either buy these:

http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/5-16-UNC-x-1-1-2-Sock...

Is that long enough?

Or this kit:

http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Rover-V8-Sump-Bolt-Ki...

Best to use two new studs and the rest of the old bolts, or all new stainless steel bolts?

Dunno really. Studs, bolts... down to personal preference. The same principle goes for the exhaust manifolds, over which there has been much discussion of bolts, studs etc.

I guess the benefit of studs for the back of the sump is that it will quickly allow you to re-align the sump when putting it on, but it may also prove a PIA when trying to fix the spreader, spring washers and nuts whilst lying on your back under the car. I would go for the bolts personally, but there again, I went for studs on my exhaust manifolds...

I have a nice 1/4in extendable ratchet and socket that is just right for the rear bolts without too much hassle.