It's worth noting the European spec Type Rs are based on the CH1 Accord platform, while the Japanese market Euro-R uses the CL1 chassis. Both have a double wishbone front suspension design, while at the back is five-link set-up. A helical limited-slip differential improves traction, while the rack and pinion steering requires 2.8 turns from lock to lock.
Chassis well sorted; brakes worth an upgrade
There's not a lot to fear with the Type R's rolling chassis. The brake and fuel lines can rot unseen as they are hidden behind a plastic tray under the car, so budget for new pipework on any car that doesn't have a recent receipt for this work. It's a DIY job for anyone competent with making pipework, but it will take around 10 hours.
Suspension bushes and anti-roll bar drop links wear with age, as you'd expect, and the Type R is very sensitive to this. Reckon on replacing all of the bushes to get the best from the handling. Even so, the car will still get through front tyres quickly and can need a new set every 10,000 miles. As set of four Bridgestone Potenzas will cost around £400 for the 215/45 17-inch rubber used on the Type R.
The double-five spoke alloy wheels are not especially susceptible to damage. However, getting hold of replacement wheels is difficult, so a set in good condition is worth looking for.
Upgrading the suspension is usually done with Tein or BC Racing dampers, but many find the standard set-up the best balance for road use.
The original brakes are also fine for road use, with 300mm ventilated front discs and 260mm rears. Uprated pads from Pagid or EBC are the usual upgrades here.
PHer's view:
"The handling of the Accord Type R is far better balanced than a Mondeo ST200's or any other front-drive saloon of the late 90s. A well set up one is still a treat."
DC