removing FIA rollbar

[harry b]

I want to repaint my car and need to remove the FIA rollbar.
Detaching rear struts is obvious, also 2 small bolts on top off the frontplates, but there must be some attachment hidden under the rear shock. Can't really see it without removing the rear shock.
1996 Series 3

[pikeyboy]

You're not wrong if it's a de dion chassis. A spigot on the cage/rollbar goes through the chassis and bolts through from underneath into a threaded boss in the cage/roll bar. I only know this as I cut these off when I converted a de dion cage for my live axle car.

[harry b]

Yes Dedion.
Thanks, so am going to remove the Shocks to have a look.

[Risky]

Bolts have a very thin head - be careful you don't round them

[Risky]

Bolts have a very thin head - be careful you don't round them

[Aeroscreens]

From memory they are 14mm heads on the bolts and as said before they are only 3mm deep and very easy to round off. It's worth getting hold of an old socket and grinding the top down to remove the chamfer on the socket so that you get a really good purchase on the head bolt.

If it's too late and the bolt has been rounded get an Irwin Bolt Remover Set. Bloody brilliant! I spent a whole morning scraping my knuckles and rounding the head on the bolt and once I'd bought the bolt remover set the bolt was off in 5 mins.

[harry b]

Noted. Will grind down a 14mm socket.

[Risky]

Let's be precise. It's an imperial chassis and the bolt is 3/8"UNF x 1" and will have a 9/16" head, although you will get away with a 14mm socket if you don't have 9/16".

[BertBert]

Risky said:

Let's be precise. It's an imperial chassis and the bolt is 3/8"UNF x 1" and will have a 9/16" head, although you will get away with a 14mm socket if you don't have 9/16".

But don't use a 14mm one. If ever there's a place to use the right tool, this is it!

And it's obvious, but make sure the DD tube is drooping and the car is supported on the chassis before taking the top shock bolt out!!

bert

[Aeroscreens]

I understand the above comments and I know they are technically correct, but all I can say from a practical point of view is that the 14mm hex socket I have been using all these years is a perfect tight fit (tighter than the 9/16") and IMHO is less likely to lead to a rounding of the bolt head. 14mm being slightly smaller than 9/16"

[harry b]

Got it! Car is off the wheels, FIA bar is removed. Thanks to every one.

[croftsj]

1 more tip.
When you reassemble, be absolutely sure the bolt passing through the top of the shock absorber that you insert from behind the seat is actually passing through the eye of the shock absorber. A so called Caterham specialist who shall remain nameless managed to put 1 of my rear shocks back in and completely missed, leaving the shock tightly wedged in under the cage mount but not actually 'part' of the car.

[harry b]

croftsj said:

1 more tip.
When you reassemble, be absolutely sure the bolt passing through the top of the shock absorber that you insert from behind the seat is actually passing through the eye of the shock absorber. A so called Caterham specialist who shall remain nameless managed to put 1 of my rear shocks back in and completely missed, leaving the shock tightly wedged in under the cage mount but not actually 'part' of the car.

I think it would take about one corner to find out if it's mounted correctly.
Also going to take a closer look to the diontube when the shocks are removed. Mine has the shock mount underneath the tube. Doesn't have the triangle reinforcement plate on the front of it. I'm considering welding (properly) it when I'm at it.
Lot's of plans for the off season. Also have a XTR2 to finish, so won't get bored this winter.

[croftsj]

Yep first hoon after the refit within a few miles could tell all was not well.

[red_slr]

As its a 96 I would replace those bolts.
You probably wont get chance again in the next 16 years so might as well.
HTH