Finishing Touches To New Car
Discussion
I would appreciate views on some finishing touches for a new SV.
Is it worth swapping from the standard roll hoop to the FIA style with extra cross bracing? 99% of my driving will be on the road but I do plan to do occasional track days.
On CSR cars I have noticed small vanes fitted either side of the nose at an angle of about 45 degrees. What are these called and what do they do? I can’t see these listed on the Caterham parts site.
Is it worth adding Armourfend to some parts of a new car? The rear wing stone guards leave exposed areas, I’m not sure why the guards are not the full width of the rear wings, should I Armourfend around the stone guards and I’m told that side panels are also vulnerable.
Are headlights at particular risk of stone damage? They fit so upright, I have had stones ping of raked headlights on other cars. Is there any product that provides headlight protection for a 7 or are my concerns unfounded?
Finally, are there any other modifications I should be thinking of to make a new car better suited/more durable for higher than average Caterham mileage? I expect to be doing 10,000+ pa. I would rather spend a few more quid being pro-active now than finding out further down the track that I wish I had done this or that!
Is it worth swapping from the standard roll hoop to the FIA style with extra cross bracing? 99% of my driving will be on the road but I do plan to do occasional track days.
On CSR cars I have noticed small vanes fitted either side of the nose at an angle of about 45 degrees. What are these called and what do they do? I can’t see these listed on the Caterham parts site.
Is it worth adding Armourfend to some parts of a new car? The rear wing stone guards leave exposed areas, I’m not sure why the guards are not the full width of the rear wings, should I Armourfend around the stone guards and I’m told that side panels are also vulnerable.
Are headlights at particular risk of stone damage? They fit so upright, I have had stones ping of raked headlights on other cars. Is there any product that provides headlight protection for a 7 or are my concerns unfounded?
Finally, are there any other modifications I should be thinking of to make a new car better suited/more durable for higher than average Caterham mileage? I expect to be doing 10,000+ pa. I would rather spend a few more quid being pro-active now than finding out further down the track that I wish I had done this or that!
I think the FIA roll bar would be a good choice. No one plans to use their roll bar, but paying a little more for better protection is wise. Many think the 7 should come with it as standard.
I think the carbon vaines add downforce. Or that's what I believe they are meant to do! I've seen chat of adding these afterwards, so I think it's a viable option open to you.
I changed my rear stone guards to wrap around stone guards to hide the stone rash down the leading edge that was left unprotected. I bought these from Millwood.
Amfour fend is quite often added to the nose cone small patches are applied on the bonnet where the door rests when fully open.
I used to use my daily and once had a stone chipped headlight, which required new glass. It didn't seem a common issue.
What tyres are you running? I run Yoko 21r's as daily use. Cope well with the mixture of weathers.
I think the carbon vaines add downforce. Or that's what I believe they are meant to do! I've seen chat of adding these afterwards, so I think it's a viable option open to you.
I changed my rear stone guards to wrap around stone guards to hide the stone rash down the leading edge that was left unprotected. I bought these from Millwood.
Amfour fend is quite often added to the nose cone small patches are applied on the bonnet where the door rests when fully open.
I used to use my daily and once had a stone chipped headlight, which required new glass. It didn't seem a common issue.
What tyres are you running? I run Yoko 21r's as daily use. Cope well with the mixture of weathers.
Keep it stiff said:
Is it worth swapping from the standard roll hoop to the FIA style with extra cross bracing? 99% of my driving will be on the road but I do plan to do occasional track days.
If you want to do the odd track day, then I would opt for the FIA bar. The L7C organised days I think require it and some other ones may do too. Plus it looks better!Keep it stiff said:
On CSR cars I have noticed small vanes fitted either side of the nose at an angle of about 45 degrees. What are these called and what do they do? I can’t see these listed on the Caterham parts site.
They are called aero-whiskers and they provide extra downforce (only about 0.001g though 
) If you want them then it would be for looks alone I suggest.Keep it stiff said:
Is it worth adding Armourfend to some parts of a new car? The rear wing stone guards leave exposed areas, I’m not sure why the guards are not the full width of the rear wings, should I Armourfend around the stone guards and I’m told that side panels are also vulnerable.
Are headlights at particular risk of stone damage? They fit so upright, I have had stones ping of raked headlights on other cars. Is there any product that provides headlight protection for a 7 or are my concerns unfounded?
Absolutely, sevens are well known for badly getting stone chipped. Armourfend the rear wings, nosecone (top and sides) and sideskins.Are headlights at particular risk of stone damage? They fit so upright, I have had stones ping of raked headlights on other cars. Is there any product that provides headlight protection for a 7 or are my concerns unfounded?
Keep it stiff said:
Finally, are there any other modifications I should be thinking of to make a new car better suited/more durable for higher than average Caterham mileage? I expect to be doing 10,000+ pa. I would rather spend a few more quid being pro-active now than finding out further down the track that I wish I had done this or that!
Mine's just a weekend toy so others will know more about this than me but I would add a 12v socket for a satnav at the very least. Not sure if you are doing the build but make sure all the gaps underneath (the 'grot-traps') are filled and you could wax-oil the chassis straight away to prevent too much corrosion in the future. In terms of the CSR 'whiskers' see the cc link below:-
www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=327...
Regarding adding Armourfend to the rear wings is a must in my view. You could consider it along the side panels or alternatively fit mud guards to stop stones being thrown up. Few folks have done this.
I use the X bar FIA, certainly a good idea; extra tall version if you a 6+footer (with helmet on track).
Tyre choice for road use?
Good quality oil; class 5 ester see the Opie oils website.
Some decent weather equipment; full hood, half hood, tonneau, clothing for yourself.
Hearing protection.
A good sense of humour.
www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=327...
Regarding adding Armourfend to the rear wings is a must in my view. You could consider it along the side panels or alternatively fit mud guards to stop stones being thrown up. Few folks have done this.
I use the X bar FIA, certainly a good idea; extra tall version if you a 6+footer (with helmet on track).
Tyre choice for road use?
Good quality oil; class 5 ester see the Opie oils website.
Some decent weather equipment; full hood, half hood, tonneau, clothing for yourself.
Hearing protection.
A good sense of humour.
viper blue said:
In terms of the CSR 'whiskers' see the cc link below:-
www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=327...
Regarding adding Armourfend to the rear wings is a must in my view. You could consider it along the side panels or alternatively fit mud guards to stop stones being thrown up. Few folks have done this.
I use the X bar FIA, certainly a good idea; extra tall version if you a 6+footer (with helmet on track).
Tyre choice for road use?
Good quality oil; class 5 ester see the Opie oils website.
Some decent weather equipment; full hood, half hood, tonneau, clothing for yourself.
Hearing protection.
A good sense of humour.
Thanks for the link on the whiskers. The Caterham parts site is not the easiest to find your way round!www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=327...
Regarding adding Armourfend to the rear wings is a must in my view. You could consider it along the side panels or alternatively fit mud guards to stop stones being thrown up. Few folks have done this.
I use the X bar FIA, certainly a good idea; extra tall version if you a 6+footer (with helmet on track).
Tyre choice for road use?
Good quality oil; class 5 ester see the Opie oils website.
Some decent weather equipment; full hood, half hood, tonneau, clothing for yourself.
Hearing protection.
A good sense of humour.
Wheel wise the car is on 13's, CR500's on it at the moment. I'm going to buy a second set of wheels so that I can keep one set of tyres for track days and another set for road. I'm sure there have been dozens of threads on tyre choice so I was going to scroll back through the forum to read up on earlier comments. My initial thoughts are to keep the CR500's for track and chose a road tyre with more emphasis on tyre life than pure grip. Does that sound sensible?
OP,
The whiskers are for 2 purposes - to look cool, and add downforce. They are very good at the former. The latter? not so much.
Ignore anyone that advocates 15 inch wheels, the mere notion of which is herecy. CR500's are a great tyre, but not so hot in greasy conditions. 322's might be a better bet for winter, with their higher and more blocky pattern - just don't expect much from them on track days =)
The whiskers are for 2 purposes - to look cool, and add downforce. They are very good at the former. The latter? not so much.
Ignore anyone that advocates 15 inch wheels, the mere notion of which is herecy. CR500's are a great tyre, but not so hot in greasy conditions. 322's might be a better bet for winter, with their higher and more blocky pattern - just don't expect much from them on track days =)
I recommend getting a battery cutoff switch. Apart from the safety and security benefits, it reduces battery drain when the car is laid up. Mine has sat for a month during the worst of the winter weather and then started first turn of the key.
Also make sure you've decided on the right type of seat based on your own measurements for comfort and view through(not over) the screen. If you're tall, lowered floors are a good idea. I have lowered floors in my SV in conjunction with leather seats and a QR Momo wheel. Loads of room and easy to get in/ out of.
Also make sure you've decided on the right type of seat based on your own measurements for comfort and view through(not over) the screen. If you're tall, lowered floors are a good idea. I have lowered floors in my SV in conjunction with leather seats and a QR Momo wheel. Loads of room and easy to get in/ out of.
Gingerbread Man said:
I think the FIA roll bar would be a good choice. No one plans to use their roll bar, but paying a little more for better protection is wise. Many think the 7 should come with it as standard.
I think the carbon vaines add downforce. Or that's what I believe they are meant to do! I've seen chat of adding these afterwards, so I think it's a viable option open to you.
I changed my rear stone guards to wrap around stone guards to hide the stone rash down the leading edge that was left unprotected. I bought these from Millwood.
Amfour fend is quite often added to the nose cone small patches are applied on the bonnet where the door rests when fully open.
I used to use my daily and once had a stone chipped headlight, which required new glass. It didn't seem a common issue.
What tyres are you running? I run Yoko 21r's as daily use. Cope well with the mixture of weathers.
Do you have a link for the wrap around stone guards. My wings around the edges are more stone rash than paint these days and I wouldn't mind getting a set but I've never been able to find them. Thanks.I think the carbon vaines add downforce. Or that's what I believe they are meant to do! I've seen chat of adding these afterwards, so I think it's a viable option open to you.
I changed my rear stone guards to wrap around stone guards to hide the stone rash down the leading edge that was left unprotected. I bought these from Millwood.
Amfour fend is quite often added to the nose cone small patches are applied on the bonnet where the door rests when fully open.
I used to use my daily and once had a stone chipped headlight, which required new glass. It didn't seem a common issue.
What tyres are you running? I run Yoko 21r's as daily use. Cope well with the mixture of weathers.
And to the OP, I would recommend the FIA bar. I bought one within a few months of finishing my car before my first track day. With hindsight I should have just ordered one at the time of buying - the original one ended up getting in the way in the garage for ages!
themanalive said:
Gingerbread Man said:
I think the FIA roll bar would be a good choice. No one plans to use their roll bar, but paying a little more for better protection is wise. Many think the 7 should come with it as standard.
I think the carbon vaines add downforce. Or that's what I believe they are meant to do! I've seen chat of adding these afterwards, so I think it's a viable option open to you.
I changed my rear stone guards to wrap around stone guards to hide the stone rash down the leading edge that was left unprotected. I bought these from Millwood.
Amfour fend is quite often added to the nose cone small patches are applied on the bonnet where the door rests when fully open.
I used to use my daily and once had a stone chipped headlight, which required new glass. It didn't seem a common issue.
What tyres are you running? I run Yoko 21r's as daily use. Cope well with the mixture of weathers.
Do you have a link for the wrap around stone guards. My wings around the edges are more stone rash than paint these days and I wouldn't mind getting a set but I've never been able to find them. Thanks.I think the carbon vaines add downforce. Or that's what I believe they are meant to do! I've seen chat of adding these afterwards, so I think it's a viable option open to you.
I changed my rear stone guards to wrap around stone guards to hide the stone rash down the leading edge that was left unprotected. I bought these from Millwood.
Amfour fend is quite often added to the nose cone small patches are applied on the bonnet where the door rests when fully open.
I used to use my daily and once had a stone chipped headlight, which required new glass. It didn't seem a common issue.
What tyres are you running? I run Yoko 21r's as daily use. Cope well with the mixture of weathers.
And to the OP, I would recommend the FIA bar. I bought one within a few months of finishing my car before my first track day. With hindsight I should have just ordered one at the time of buying - the original one ended up getting in the way in the garage for ages!
Not my car, but here's an image for others.
Definitely get the FIA bar or the tall version should it be necessary. The standard bar shouldn't even be offered from the factory IMO; the FIA bar should be the bare minimum. The gauge is way too thin and it is not high enough the protect your head. And yes, 7C track days do require it. Think that says it all.
Thanks for the various suggestions.
12v take-off and master switch were already on my shopping list.
I'm going to go for the wrap round type of ring wing defenders, good suggestion, thanks.I'm also going to follow up with Armourfend as I'm sure this will be worthwhile. And yes to whiskers too, they look cool.
The jury is out on wheel/tyre choice, the car is coming on 13's with CR500's, I plan to keep these for track day use and swap to somthing else for the road, wheel size, tyre ratio and tyre choice I'm uncertain about. Decisions decisions!
12v take-off and master switch were already on my shopping list.
I'm going to go for the wrap round type of ring wing defenders, good suggestion, thanks.I'm also going to follow up with Armourfend as I'm sure this will be worthwhile. And yes to whiskers too, they look cool.
The jury is out on wheel/tyre choice, the car is coming on 13's with CR500's, I plan to keep these for track day use and swap to somthing else for the road, wheel size, tyre ratio and tyre choice I'm uncertain about. Decisions decisions!
The 'full' Armourfend treatment (nose cone, sides, rear arches plus some other points of regular wear) is costing me £370 including travel to my car and professional fitting, after 10% L7C discount (pretty much covered membership ). From the difference I've seen that it makes to stone chipping on other cars, well worth it IMHO.
Contact Dave at www.premierpaintguard.com, he comes very highly recommended.
As you're going to use it a lot a tonneau can make you feel beter about parking it up in public, even if it offers no real security.
Andy
). From the difference I've seen that it makes to stone chipping on other cars, well worth it IMHO.Contact Dave at www.premierpaintguard.com, he comes very highly recommended.
As you're going to use it a lot a tonneau can make you feel beter about parking it up in public, even if it offers no real security.
Andy
Keep it stiff said:
Thanks for the various suggestions.
12v take-off and master switch were already on my shopping list.
The jury is out on wheel/tyre choice, the car is coming on 13's with CR500's, I plan to keep these for track day use and swap to somthing else for the road, wheel size, tyre ratio and tyre choice I'm uncertain about. Decisions decisions!
Yokohama A0-21r is a good all year tyre. I speak from using my daily for a few years. I did run Yokohama 48's and Toyo 888's for a while, but come rain and standing water, there wasn't much confidence with these on.12v take-off and master switch were already on my shopping list.
The jury is out on wheel/tyre choice, the car is coming on 13's with CR500's, I plan to keep these for track day use and swap to somthing else for the road, wheel size, tyre ratio and tyre choice I'm uncertain about. Decisions decisions!
I fitted a 12V above the passengers left knee in a hole in the windscreen wiper motors bracketing. Keeps it out of the rain and out of sight.
As for a master switch, I've recently fitted one of these to help with the immobilisers parasitic load draining the battery. As I regularly leave the Caterham out in public and it lives outside as it is, I didn't want the master switch on public viewing just in case someone removed it leaving me buggered to start the car. I didn't want to have to personally take it off the car every time I left it, so I fitted one above the drivers right knee, near the heater controller. So can easily be enabled/ disabled when sat in the drivers seat, or it's not difficult to reach in and play with if needed.
Gingerbread Man said:
Yokohama A0-21r is a good all year tyre. I speak from using my daily for a few years. I did run Yokohama 48's and Toyo 888's for a while, but come rain and standing water, there wasn't much confidence with these on.
I fitted a 12V above the passengers left knee in a hole in the windscreen wiper motors bracketing. Keeps it out of the rain and out of sight.
As for a master switch, I've recently fitted one of these to help with the immobilisers parasitic load draining the battery. As I regularly leave the Caterham out in public and it lives outside as it is, I didn't want the master switch on public viewing just in case someone removed it leaving me buggered to start the car. I didn't want to have to personally take it off the car every time I left it, so I fitted one above the drivers right knee, near the heater controller. So can easily be enabled/ disabled when sat in the drivers seat, or it's not difficult to reach in and play with if needed.
Given that my immobiliser wasn't working when I bought my car, and the ignition had been wired out entirely (yes!), it was possible to start the car with just a flick of a switch on the dash and a press of the starter button - I found the battery kill switch rather useful!I fitted a 12V above the passengers left knee in a hole in the windscreen wiper motors bracketing. Keeps it out of the rain and out of sight.
As for a master switch, I've recently fitted one of these to help with the immobilisers parasitic load draining the battery. As I regularly leave the Caterham out in public and it lives outside as it is, I didn't want the master switch on public viewing just in case someone removed it leaving me buggered to start the car. I didn't want to have to personally take it off the car every time I left it, so I fitted one above the drivers right knee, near the heater controller. So can easily be enabled/ disabled when sat in the drivers seat, or it's not difficult to reach in and play with if needed.
I will say though, it's probably easily forgotten and easily stolen if left on (the switch that is). I bought a couple of smaller battery cut off switches from ebay for a few quid. I've attached these to my keys permanently so in case I do need one in an emergency - I've always got one!
Forums | Caterham | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff