New Small Momo Race Wheel
Discussion
This turned up today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8818557@N04/853009494...
Sadly as many other have found out its not drilled.
I have found an excellent template from one of the previous Caterham Graduate racers of tweb though!!
Thing is thogh I suspect that as the top of the three bolts is upright at the north position, when drilled through it will be where the Momo logo is on the wheel, which seems kind of a shame.
I could rotate the top hole from North to south, IE from 360 to 180, but that would mean that the location notch is 180 degrees out, so I would have to rotate the shaft for the QR.
Anyone got any other tips or pointers?
Thanks in advance.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8818557@N04/853009494...
Sadly as many other have found out its not drilled.
I have found an excellent template from one of the previous Caterham Graduate racers of tweb though!!
Thing is thogh I suspect that as the top of the three bolts is upright at the north position, when drilled through it will be where the Momo logo is on the wheel, which seems kind of a shame.
I could rotate the top hole from North to south, IE from 360 to 180, but that would mean that the location notch is 180 degrees out, so I would have to rotate the shaft for the QR.
Anyone got any other tips or pointers?
Thanks in advance.
I can't believe that I am seeking to provide you with technical advice.... this is all so wrong!
As you suggest, in order to get the triangle of screws "point down" then you will have to spin the column through 180 degrees on the splines of the steering rack U/J.
I can't see that being a problem; I had to faff when I retropsectively installed my Lifeline boss in place of the fixed one - new top column section meant that the steering asn't properly aligned in the straight ahead position.
I just park with the road wheels facing straight ahead, so that I have a fighting chance of getting the steering wheel back in roughly the correct position - which is the same issue regardless of the orientation of the boss.
As you suggest, in order to get the triangle of screws "point down" then you will have to spin the column through 180 degrees on the splines of the steering rack U/J.
I can't see that being a problem; I had to faff when I retropsectively installed my Lifeline boss in place of the fixed one - new top column section meant that the steering asn't properly aligned in the straight ahead position.
I just park with the road wheels facing straight ahead, so that I have a fighting chance of getting the steering wheel back in roughly the correct position - which is the same issue regardless of the orientation of the boss.
jingars said:
I can't believe that I am seeking to provide you with technical advice.... this is all so wrong!
As you suggest, in order to get the triangle of screws "point down" then you will have to spin the column through 180 degrees on the splines of the steering rack U/J.
I can't see that being a problem; I had to faff when I retropsectively installed my Lifeline boss in place of the fixed one - new top column section meant that the steering asn't properly aligned in the straight ahead position.
I just park with the road wheels facing straight ahead, so that I have a fighting chance of getting the steering wheel back in roughly the correct position - which is the same issue regardless of the orientation of the boss.
Ahhh, but you are wise beyond your years my friend, and I am just looking for someone with such wisdom to concur with my own thought process, so thanks for your guidance!!!As you suggest, in order to get the triangle of screws "point down" then you will have to spin the column through 180 degrees on the splines of the steering rack U/J.
I can't see that being a problem; I had to faff when I retropsectively installed my Lifeline boss in place of the fixed one - new top column section meant that the steering asn't properly aligned in the straight ahead position.
I just park with the road wheels facing straight ahead, so that I have a fighting chance of getting the steering wheel back in roughly the correct position - which is the same issue regardless of the orientation of the boss.
nigelpugh7 said:
Fatrat said:
Ah, the very wheel I am replacing in about a months time!
are you getting rid of the smaller wheel, or doing the same as me and changing to the smaller wheel.If you are doing he later, I am sure i will have loads of info by then on what I did to get mine installed!!

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=vi...
I just cannot get on with the "gap" at the top of the wheel. So if anyone wants a lightly used version of the OP's wheel, get in touch!
EFA said:
Bit late Fatrat. I was looking one for ages. Ending up getting a new one for £100 though, which won't please Nigel.
The holes are drilled thus:

Thanks Arnie, my only problem with that config is it would mean butchering the SVA pad and wiring of the existing wheel to rotate it through 180 degrees.The holes are drilled thus:
The std wheel config on my car as it came from Caterham is with one bolt at the North position.
EFA said:
So what you need to do Nigel, is get someone to make up a round aluminium spacer which you fit behind this wheel to invert the positions of the holes.
Shouldn't cost much to have made, only needs to be thin circa 7 or 8mm thick.
That sounds like a good option Arnie, but not sure I can be that bothered tbh!Shouldn't cost much to have made, only needs to be thin circa 7 or 8mm thick.
I think I will just stick with the single bolt at the north position, even if it slightly obstructs the momo logo.
It's just easier to leave the column as is, because its hard to make changes with the cabling in the column!
Then at least the standard wheel can be put on and off easily whenever needed.
Thanks for all the feedback so far.
EFA said:
My analism would not allow me to live with such a compromise right under my nose.....
Its probably only twice as hard as drilling your wheel in the first place. And I reckon you'll get a machine shop to do that won't you?
Thanks Arnie, I agree but personally my OCD could not let me live with the way your bolt holes were drilled on your wheel, each one looks a few mm off the correct degree location around the PCD circle correct position! Its probably only twice as hard as drilling your wheel in the first place. And I reckon you'll get a machine shop to do that won't you?

Slightly O/T but I thought there were 'issues' regarding legality and insurance when using this ‘open’ type of wheel on the public highway?
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