Your thoughts on heat wrapping the primaries
Discussion
I'm considering wrapping the primaries on my Duratec car during the course of my build. In the main, I'm looking to try and avoid some of the issues that some seem to have experienced with regard to heat building up in the transmission tunnel and footwells of the car.
As ideas go, is this a sensible one and is it worthwhile?
As ideas go, is this a sensible one and is it worthwhile?
Thanks for the replies. The car is a SuperSport with the Duratec engine. Not sure if the primaries are going to be mild steel or stainless?
If the latter, I'd assume that premature corrosion of the metal would be minimal although I respect what's been said about too much heat in the head etc.
I guess I'll wait and see how hot it gets then and see if its going to be much of an issue.
Let's hope they supply me with some of that reflective sheeting then.
If the latter, I'd assume that premature corrosion of the metal would be minimal although I respect what's been said about too much heat in the head etc.
I guess I'll wait and see how hot it gets then and see if its going to be much of an issue.
Let's hope they supply me with some of that reflective sheeting then.
It was already fitted on my duratec Supersport delivered in June. They also filled the grot traps between footwell and side panels too, which was a nice surprise. Just a shame I'd bought a job lot of (now redundant) cavity wax.
My advice, having been in your position a couple of months ago, is to not worry too much about buying stuff in before it arrives. Once you've got it, you realise quite quickly that a set of ratchet spammers and a torque wrench is pretty much all you really need. Your biggest logistical problem will be missing parts in the delivery, and even then Caterham will have them with you by noon the next day.
The build will be much easier that you thought it would be (I did it and I'm a moron) but will be even more rewarding than you thought it could be. And every time you drive the car, you'll remember that you built it. And that's a very nice feeling.
My advice, having been in your position a couple of months ago, is to not worry too much about buying stuff in before it arrives. Once you've got it, you realise quite quickly that a set of ratchet spammers and a torque wrench is pretty much all you really need. Your biggest logistical problem will be missing parts in the delivery, and even then Caterham will have them with you by noon the next day.
The build will be much easier that you thought it would be (I did it and I'm a moron) but will be even more rewarding than you thought it could be. And every time you drive the car, you'll remember that you built it. And that's a very nice feeling.
Tom,
You will be fine, the Duratec cars all come with the insulation fitted now,,even though my first R500 as a kit did not.
There will always be heat build up in the footwell a, it's hard to totally get rid of it.
After building and owning 5 caterhams personally, I have tried many solutions to reduce the heat, some worked better than others.
In my current R500 the biggest noticeable difference was a reduction in heat on the drivers side when I removed the Catalytic converter and replaced with the straight through pipe.
I would also recommend carpet for the centre tunnel. This just helps take off the sting of hot bare metal on your clutch leg.
At my most recent track day a few weeks ago, it was a very hot day, about 28 degrees outside, but I managed to drive my car in shorts, without getting a burnt leg!
Good luck with your build, it's one of the greatest achievements you can make as a sports car loving driver, and you will enjoy your car so much more!
Have fun!
You will be fine, the Duratec cars all come with the insulation fitted now,,even though my first R500 as a kit did not.
There will always be heat build up in the footwell a, it's hard to totally get rid of it.
After building and owning 5 caterhams personally, I have tried many solutions to reduce the heat, some worked better than others.
In my current R500 the biggest noticeable difference was a reduction in heat on the drivers side when I removed the Catalytic converter and replaced with the straight through pipe.
I would also recommend carpet for the centre tunnel. This just helps take off the sting of hot bare metal on your clutch leg.
At my most recent track day a few weeks ago, it was a very hot day, about 28 degrees outside, but I managed to drive my car in shorts, without getting a burnt leg!
Good luck with your build, it's one of the greatest achievements you can make as a sports car loving driver, and you will enjoy your car so much more!
Have fun!
uremaw said:
...They also filled the grot traps between footwell and side panels too.
Hi there. I'm planning on rebuilding my 7 within the next 6 months. How have these been filled. I was under the impression that it was an area that you couldn't get at, but I guess you can to see that they've been blocked off and to cavity wax?uremaw said:
...They also filled the grot traps between footwell and side panels too.
Hi there. I'm planning on rebuilding my 7 within the next 6 months. How have these been filled. I was under the impression that it was an area that you couldn't get at, but I guess you can to see that they've been blocked off and to cavity wax?Gingerbread Man said:
Hi there. I'm planning on rebuilding my 7 within the next 6 months. How have these been filled. I was under the impression that it was an area that you couldn't get at, but I guess you can to see that they've been blocked off and to cavity wax?
What are you calling a "rebuild"? I stripped all the interior panels out of mine in late 2006 and cleaned and waxoyled everything behind them, at the same time injecting Waxoyl into the chassis tubes. The grot trap area looked pretty grim when I started. I also took the opportunity to have the panels powder coated before refitting.There's a few piccies on my website: http://www.superse7ens.co.uk/chassis.html
V7SLR said:
hat are you calling a "rebuild"? I stripped all the interior panels out of mine in late 2006 and cleaned and waxoyled everything behind them, at the same time injecting Waxoyl into the chassis tubes. The grot trap area looked pretty grim when I started. I also took the opportunity to have the panels powder coated before refitting.
There's a few piccies on my website: http://www.superse7ens.co.uk/chassis.html
All panels off. Re-powder coat of the chassis, new panels, then chuck it back together again.There's a few piccies on my website: http://www.superse7ens.co.uk/chassis.html
V7SLR said:
hat are you calling a "rebuild"? I stripped all the interior panels out of mine in late 2006 and cleaned and waxoyled everything behind them, at the same time injecting Waxoyl into the chassis tubes. The grot trap area looked pretty grim when I started. I also took the opportunity to have the panels powder coated before refitting.
There's a few piccies on my website: http://www.superse7ens.co.uk/chassis.html
All panels off. Re-powder coat of the chassis, new panels, then chuck it back together again.There's a few piccies on my website: http://www.superse7ens.co.uk/chassis.html
Gingerbread Man said:
Hi there. I'm planning on rebuilding my 7 within the next 6 months. How have these been filled. I was under the impression that it was an area that you couldn't get at, but I guess you can to see that they've been blocked off and to cavity wax?
The gap between chassis tubes, side skin and footwell skin has been filled with what looks like e same aluminium heat shielding that caterham use on the transmission tunnel and bulkhead these days. Access to it (on a new build) is limited - caterham have left 8-10 rivets unrivetted so you can pull the panel back and peer inside. For a rebuild, I guess you'd just drill out the rivets to gain access.I sprayed some dinitrol in there just in case, but almost immediately it started dripping into the footwell.
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