Discussion
Hi Everyone
Got a potential problem with my immobiliser.
It was always a bit fiddly to switch on / off and wanted to give you the details of how it starts with a view to someone helping out.
Model: 2006 Rover 1.6 K Series
Ex Academy so it has an electrical on / off red handle which turns 45 degrees to an 'on' position on the right side of the bonnet, reachable from the driver seat.
It has a another switch on the dash which cuts off the engine under a red switch.
There is no ignition key, but a push starter button.
There is a red light in the middle of the dashboard which as far as I can tell blinks when the immobiliser is on. I think this stops blinking and is off when the immobiliser is off. Separately, there is a red light and a green light in the speedo area.
The immobiliser is a standard Rover immobiliser with a hey fob with a lock and an unlock button and nothing else.
As far as I can tell I have to have the red handle on the side of the car on for it to do anything.
So with that on, I've managed to switch the immobiliser on (flashing red light), and then off (no red light).
The car will turn over but the engine doesn't start in both instances.
I was hoping that someone has a similar set up and whether there is a correct sequence to follow to get it starting on each occasion.
The car has sat there for 3-months or so, so there may be another problem.
Separately, I'm looking for a set of 3 series doors if anyone knows of any.
Cheers
Will
Got a potential problem with my immobiliser.
It was always a bit fiddly to switch on / off and wanted to give you the details of how it starts with a view to someone helping out.
Model: 2006 Rover 1.6 K Series
Ex Academy so it has an electrical on / off red handle which turns 45 degrees to an 'on' position on the right side of the bonnet, reachable from the driver seat.
It has a another switch on the dash which cuts off the engine under a red switch.
There is no ignition key, but a push starter button.
There is a red light in the middle of the dashboard which as far as I can tell blinks when the immobiliser is on. I think this stops blinking and is off when the immobiliser is off. Separately, there is a red light and a green light in the speedo area.
The immobiliser is a standard Rover immobiliser with a hey fob with a lock and an unlock button and nothing else.
As far as I can tell I have to have the red handle on the side of the car on for it to do anything.
So with that on, I've managed to switch the immobiliser on (flashing red light), and then off (no red light).
The car will turn over but the engine doesn't start in both instances.
I was hoping that someone has a similar set up and whether there is a correct sequence to follow to get it starting on each occasion.
The car has sat there for 3-months or so, so there may be another problem.
Separately, I'm looking for a set of 3 series doors if anyone knows of any.
Cheers
Will
Hi Will,
I have exactly the same setup on my 1.6K and I too had 'inconsistencies' with how the immobiliser seemed to work when I first got it. The following advice was given to me and has worked 99% of the time. Put it this way - at one point I felt like it was pot luck whether it started or not, now I never doubt it and if for some reason it doesn't I go back to the beginning and start again and that always solves it.
If you take out the red handle from the battery cut off switch (I do after every drive - it stops the battery running down) then you have to arm the immobiliser again before you can disarm it. So :
- Make sure the red aero-type cover over the ignition toggle switch (left of the dash ? mine is) is closed/down i.e. ignition off.
- Re-insert the red battery cut off switch (and turn it on
) The red light at the centre of the dash will now be flashing slowly and evenly.
- Arm the immobiliser by holding down the arm button on the remote fob for 3-5 seconds until the light starts flashing faster. It will do this for about 5 seconds then return to flashing slowly(I think - trying to remember when not with the car!). I have to hold my remote fob quite close to the gear lever to ensure it always works.
- Disarm it with the other button on the remote fob. The light will go off.
- Lift the red aero cover on the dash and flick up the ignition-on toggle switch
- Hit the start button and off you (should) go !
- If for some reason it doesn't start I often go back to square one - take the battery master key out, put it back in and try it all again. I don't think it's ever failed twice.
- If you turn off the ignition (by popping the aero cover down) for any length of time the immobiliser should, apparently, auto arm itself (30 seconds?). Mine sometimes does but the length of time seems to vary and I'm sure sometimes it hasn't done it at all. Important to remember as in theory someone could then jump in your car and just drive it away ! I always arm mine manually and if out and about take the master switch red key with me as well - I attach it to my key ring.
I *think* this is the routine, from memory. If it doesn't work I'll go through it again with my car and double check. If you don't remove the master switch key each time you should just be able to disarm the immobiliser as normal but as I said, I always do to save the battery. I've left it for 6 weeks at a time and it has been fine with no battery drain.
Hope this helps,
Andy
I have exactly the same setup on my 1.6K and I too had 'inconsistencies' with how the immobiliser seemed to work when I first got it. The following advice was given to me and has worked 99% of the time. Put it this way - at one point I felt like it was pot luck whether it started or not, now I never doubt it and if for some reason it doesn't I go back to the beginning and start again and that always solves it.
If you take out the red handle from the battery cut off switch (I do after every drive - it stops the battery running down) then you have to arm the immobiliser again before you can disarm it. So :
- Make sure the red aero-type cover over the ignition toggle switch (left of the dash ? mine is) is closed/down i.e. ignition off.
- Re-insert the red battery cut off switch (and turn it on
) The red light at the centre of the dash will now be flashing slowly and evenly. - Arm the immobiliser by holding down the arm button on the remote fob for 3-5 seconds until the light starts flashing faster. It will do this for about 5 seconds then return to flashing slowly(I think - trying to remember when not with the car!). I have to hold my remote fob quite close to the gear lever to ensure it always works.
- Disarm it with the other button on the remote fob. The light will go off.
- Lift the red aero cover on the dash and flick up the ignition-on toggle switch
- Hit the start button and off you (should) go !
- If for some reason it doesn't start I often go back to square one - take the battery master key out, put it back in and try it all again. I don't think it's ever failed twice.
- If you turn off the ignition (by popping the aero cover down) for any length of time the immobiliser should, apparently, auto arm itself (30 seconds?). Mine sometimes does but the length of time seems to vary and I'm sure sometimes it hasn't done it at all. Important to remember as in theory someone could then jump in your car and just drive it away ! I always arm mine manually and if out and about take the master switch red key with me as well - I attach it to my key ring.
I *think* this is the routine, from memory. If it doesn't work I'll go through it again with my car and double check. If you don't remove the master switch key each time you should just be able to disarm the immobiliser as normal but as I said, I always do to save the battery. I've left it for 6 weeks at a time and it has been fine with no battery drain.
Hope this helps,
Andy
petery said:
If the. Light in the middle of the dash come on when turning the car over it can signal low battery repeatedly pressing the unlock while turn the engine over can sometimes by pass the problem
do you mean car battery or key fob battery ive had problems with mine from the day I bought it last October its back at caterham south at moment they eventually picked it up after 3months of ringing them its been there since January they told me the starter motor was at fault drawing power from the immobiliser personally I just wanted the immobiliser ripped out and use battery master switch ignition key and removable steering wheel for security, they are such an ancient design mines also a 1.6 kAndy,
Big thanks - that's exactly right!
I called Andy Belcher at Tech 7 and this is his advice which is more or less as yours is:
Master Switch Off to On (side of the car)
Ignition Off
Activate Alarm (wait for response)
Then Deactivate Alarm
Ignition on – should hear the fuel pump at this stage
Starter Button to start car
We got it going yesterday!
Cheers for the help!
Big thanks - that's exactly right!
I called Andy Belcher at Tech 7 and this is his advice which is more or less as yours is:
Master Switch Off to On (side of the car)
Ignition Off
Activate Alarm (wait for response)
Then Deactivate Alarm
Ignition on – should hear the fuel pump at this stage
Starter Button to start car
We got it going yesterday!
Cheers for the help!
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