Which filters?
Discussion
I'm looking to buy some filters, and am trying to work out which ones to go for to start with.
On my list at the moment are:
Set of ND Grad filters (0.3, 0.6, 0.9 hard and soft)
Set of non-grad ND filters (0.3, 0.6, 0.9)
Landscape filter set (blue, sepia and straw coloured)
81 series (not sure which ones though)
Polariser
I won't be able to get all these to begin with, so will probably just go for one set of ND Grad filters, and maybe the landscape set too.
My question to anyone who has used these filters before - what would the most useful ND Grad filters be - soft or hard?
I understand what the differences are between them, and can see the pros and cons of both, but just wondered what one is more useful in real life (my guess is soft).
Also, does anyone have any other suggestions for useful filters? All my lenses have UV filters on anyway, so I don't need these, and I'd prefer to avoid anything too flashy as I'd prefer my photos to be as near to the original scene as possible.
Thanks!
On my list at the moment are:
Set of ND Grad filters (0.3, 0.6, 0.9 hard and soft)
Set of non-grad ND filters (0.3, 0.6, 0.9)
Landscape filter set (blue, sepia and straw coloured)
81 series (not sure which ones though)
Polariser
I won't be able to get all these to begin with, so will probably just go for one set of ND Grad filters, and maybe the landscape set too.
My question to anyone who has used these filters before - what would the most useful ND Grad filters be - soft or hard?
I understand what the differences are between them, and can see the pros and cons of both, but just wondered what one is more useful in real life (my guess is soft).
Also, does anyone have any other suggestions for useful filters? All my lenses have UV filters on anyway, so I don't need these, and I'd prefer to avoid anything too flashy as I'd prefer my photos to be as near to the original scene as possible.
Thanks!
I used to experiment with Cokin filters. I found that graduated colours were good for making skies more impressive, esp tobacco and blue. You can also take a non-grad filter and slide it half-way in the holder, which gives a precise but soft edge.
In fact they're yours for a fair offer; PS does my filtering now! They're the A series which fit up to 62mm IIRC.
In fact they're yours for a fair offer; PS does my filtering now! They're the A series which fit up to 62mm IIRC.
Ed, I understand what you are saying by trying to keep the picture natural but sometimes it just doesnt work like that. (I dont mean to sound condesending).
Im of the same opinion but its just that a scene which grabs you and has impact sometimes does not look quite that in the pictures. A filter to add a bit of contrast helps to record what it reallly felt like, rather than just what it looked like.
I have a bag full of filters at home but no adaptor for my camera (I have been holding the grad filters by hand for sunset shots!).
I'll buy an adaptor and let you know how it goes.
(Its the big bag of accesories, lenses and an old body that someone leant me for as long as I want it. There are 10+ square Cokin filters).
Im of the same opinion but its just that a scene which grabs you and has impact sometimes does not look quite that in the pictures. A filter to add a bit of contrast helps to record what it reallly felt like, rather than just what it looked like.
I have a bag full of filters at home but no adaptor for my camera (I have been holding the grad filters by hand for sunset shots!).
I'll buy an adaptor and let you know how it goes.
(Its the big bag of accesories, lenses and an old body that someone leant me for as long as I want it. There are 10+ square Cokin filters).
Personally I would stick with ones which enhance the scene natrually, i.e. a polariser (pretty much the only filter whose effect cannot be replicated in PS) and the ND grads. If you are limiting yourself to a few at first don't bother with the 0.3/2x grads, get a 0.6/4x and a 0.9/8x only. The 0.3 makes hardly any difference.
If I were starting again from scratch I would buy, in order of preference:
1. Circular polariser (Remember this can also count as a 2xND filter useful for increasing exposure times if you need them, e.g. for waterfalls)
2. 2xND (0.6) soft grad.
3. 81B Warmup. Look though A/B/C outdoors if you can to decide which you like best. I think it best to bias yourself towards the weaker ones as I'm starting to feel that warmed up scenes are a bit passe)
4. 80A to convert tungsten light to "normal" for daylight film. Can also be used to add a cool mood to winter scenes.
5. FLW to convert fluorescent light into normal. You can also get some interesting effects with this especially around sunset. Well, I like it though others don't !
6. Red and orange for B&W and also some experimental colour use.
7. Blue grad, useful for creating blue skies in the UK ! I wouldn't bother with any other coloured grads. If you really want to play with them try it out in photoshop first !
1. Circular polariser (Remember this can also count as a 2xND filter useful for increasing exposure times if you need them, e.g. for waterfalls)
2. 2xND (0.6) soft grad.
3. 81B Warmup. Look though A/B/C outdoors if you can to decide which you like best. I think it best to bias yourself towards the weaker ones as I'm starting to feel that warmed up scenes are a bit passe)
4. 80A to convert tungsten light to "normal" for daylight film. Can also be used to add a cool mood to winter scenes.
5. FLW to convert fluorescent light into normal. You can also get some interesting effects with this especially around sunset. Well, I like it though others don't !
6. Red and orange for B&W and also some experimental colour use.
7. Blue grad, useful for creating blue skies in the UK ! I wouldn't bother with any other coloured grads. If you really want to play with them try it out in photoshop first !
Thanks for the advice everyone. I've decided to go for the following for now:
Set of Hard ND grads (0.3, 0.6, 0.9)
Landscape set (including blue grad)
81B
I've already got a polariser for my 28-135 lens, so the bigger one which will cover my other lenses will have to wait, along with the soft ND grads!
I can't wait to try them out now!
Set of Hard ND grads (0.3, 0.6, 0.9)
Landscape set (including blue grad)
81B
I've already got a polariser for my 28-135 lens, so the bigger one which will cover my other lenses will have to wait, along with the soft ND grads!
I can't wait to try them out now!
I started off with Hoya screw ins, but when I worked out how much it would cost to get the filters I wanted for each size for my lenses (from 58mm - 77mm), I decided it would be cheaper and easier to go for the Lee system, although Cokin is exactly the same I believe.
Basically, I've bought one of each of the filters I wanted (100mm x 100mm), a filter holder (which takes up to 4 filters) and adapters for each lens size I've got.
The adapters stay on the lens, so it takes seconds to move the filter holder between lenses.
If I add a new lens size to my collection, it'll just cost me another #15-25 for a new adapter ring, and I'll then be able to use all my filters!
It does look expensive to start with, but my biggest lens is 77mm, and a single Hoya polariser filter for that is over #150 just for the one filter, so it actually works out cheaper in the long run to go with the Lee system!
Basically, I've bought one of each of the filters I wanted (100mm x 100mm), a filter holder (which takes up to 4 filters) and adapters for each lens size I've got.
The adapters stay on the lens, so it takes seconds to move the filter holder between lenses.
If I add a new lens size to my collection, it'll just cost me another #15-25 for a new adapter ring, and I'll then be able to use all my filters!
It does look expensive to start with, but my biggest lens is 77mm, and a single Hoya polariser filter for that is over #150 just for the one filter, so it actually works out cheaper in the long run to go with the Lee system!
Mine are Hoya at the moment.
One question with the Lee/Cokin system.
If you have a lense with a focusing ring on the end far end (ie end of lense twists) can the filter ring be turned to compensate or does it have to be reattached each time?
Actually, 2 questions.
How do they do a circular polariser with square filters? Can you only turn it 90 degrees?
One question with the Lee/Cokin system.
If you have a lense with a focusing ring on the end far end (ie end of lense twists) can the filter ring be turned to compensate or does it have to be reattached each time?
Actually, 2 questions.
How do they do a circular polariser with square filters? Can you only turn it 90 degrees?
It looks like the filter holder can be fitted at any angle, so you should be able to move it to a vertical position once you've focused. It's not 100% clear though, but I'll let you know when I get them hopefully this weekend.
Lee do a couple of different polariser filters, and I don't know how Cokin do it, but the Lee filter I was looking at is the same as a normal screw-in filter (just bigger - 105mm), which screws into an adapter ring which is itself screwed to the front of the filter holder.
This means that you can use other filters with the polariser, and can also rotate just the polariser.
It's explained a bit more on www.leefilters.com and www.robertwhite.co.uk/lee.htm
Lee do a couple of different polariser filters, and I don't know how Cokin do it, but the Lee filter I was looking at is the same as a normal screw-in filter (just bigger - 105mm), which screws into an adapter ring which is itself screwed to the front of the filter holder.
This means that you can use other filters with the polariser, and can also rotate just the polariser.
It's explained a bit more on www.leefilters.com and www.robertwhite.co.uk/lee.htm
Thanks Ed.
Looked at the second site and now it all makes sense.
Now I have worked out how to use my circular polariser Its amazing what it actually does. Who found that one out and how?!
It took me a few films to work out how to use it though. I fele the need for a course...and a new thread.
(A course thread? Not a BSF then!)
Looked at the second site and now it all makes sense.
Now I have worked out how to use my circular polariser Its amazing what it actually does. Who found that one out and how?!
It took me a few films to work out how to use it though. I fele the need for a course...and a new thread.
(A course thread? Not a BSF then!)
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