DSLR users - what automatic functions do you leave on?
Discussion
I was playing around with my shiny new Canon 7D Mk2 this morning. It's quite a good camera by amateur standards and I'm using quite a good general-purpose lens (the Canon 17-55) so I always assumed the camera's judgement would be better than my own.
Lately, though, I've noticed that I can often get better results by using manual focusing. I've also switched the image stabilising off as it doesn't seem to be doing a great deal. In contrast, auto white balance seems to be pretty much spot-on and it saves me forgetting to change the settings when I go from sunlight to shade.
I'm curious to hear what some of the more experienced photographers on here tend to leave automated (if anything)?
Lately, though, I've noticed that I can often get better results by using manual focusing. I've also switched the image stabilising off as it doesn't seem to be doing a great deal. In contrast, auto white balance seems to be pretty much spot-on and it saves me forgetting to change the settings when I go from sunlight to shade.
I'm curious to hear what some of the more experienced photographers on here tend to leave automated (if anything)?
JackRatt said:
I was playing around with my shiny new Canon 7D Mk2 this morning. It's quite a good camera by amateur standards and I'm using quite a good general-purpose lens (the Canon 17-55) so I always assumed the camera's judgement would be better than my own.
Lately, though, I've noticed that I can often get better results by using manual focusing. I've also switched the image stabilising off as it doesn't seem to be doing a great deal. In contrast, auto white balance seems to be pretty much spot-on and it saves me forgetting to change the settings when I go from sunlight to shade.
I'm curious to hear what some of the more experienced photographers on here tend to leave automated (if anything)?
What focus mode is it set on? If you are shooting static scenes then you would probably be best off using the single point auto focus and using whatever controls are appropriate to place that point over the subject of your picture. Canon autofocus is so good I rarely use manual unless there is a particular reason to.Lately, though, I've noticed that I can often get better results by using manual focusing. I've also switched the image stabilising off as it doesn't seem to be doing a great deal. In contrast, auto white balance seems to be pretty much spot-on and it saves me forgetting to change the settings when I go from sunlight to shade.
I'm curious to hear what some of the more experienced photographers on here tend to leave automated (if anything)?
What editing software are you using? I understand the included Canon software is pretty good. Are you concentrating on any particular sort of subject?
You almost never need IS on a 17-55mm (I wouldn't call it an automatic function anyway)
My 'auto' bits are usually:
Autofocus (single point, usually centre for speed and accuracy then reframe, unless on a tripod)
Auto WB (if WB is critical I shoot RAW and tweak it later)
Aperture priority automatic exposure, with +/- EV as required. (Manual if in studio)
Now is a good time to read the manual from cover to cover. As you 'bed in' you may find some custom settings/button assignments helpful. For example (Nikon) I use the multifunction dial's centre press to zoom into the recorded image, and a button on the front to disable the flash. Both reduce an action that would normally take a few seconds to half a second, and in reportage that can make all the difference.
My 'auto' bits are usually:
Autofocus (single point, usually centre for speed and accuracy then reframe, unless on a tripod)
Auto WB (if WB is critical I shoot RAW and tweak it later)
Aperture priority automatic exposure, with +/- EV as required. (Manual if in studio)
Now is a good time to read the manual from cover to cover. As you 'bed in' you may find some custom settings/button assignments helpful. For example (Nikon) I use the multifunction dial's centre press to zoom into the recorded image, and a button on the front to disable the flash. Both reduce an action that would normally take a few seconds to half a second, and in reportage that can make all the difference.
Simpo Two said:
You almost never need IS on a 17-55mm (I wouldn't call it an automatic function anyway)
My 'auto' bits are usually:
Autofocus (single point, usually centre for speed and accuracy then reframe, unless on a tripod)
Auto WB (if WB is critical I shoot RAW and tweak it later)
Aperture priority automatic exposure, with +/- EV as required. (Manual if in studio)
Now is a good time to read the manual from cover to cover. As you 'bed in' you may find some custom settings/button assignments helpful. For example (Nikon) I use the multifunction dial's centre press to zoom into the recorded image, and a button on the front to disable the flash. Both reduce an action that would normally take a few seconds to half a second, and in reportage that can make all the difference.
As above - if i'm going for a very specific shot i go to M but leave WB and focus to auto. My 'auto' bits are usually:
Autofocus (single point, usually centre for speed and accuracy then reframe, unless on a tripod)
Auto WB (if WB is critical I shoot RAW and tweak it later)
Aperture priority automatic exposure, with +/- EV as required. (Manual if in studio)
Now is a good time to read the manual from cover to cover. As you 'bed in' you may find some custom settings/button assignments helpful. For example (Nikon) I use the multifunction dial's centre press to zoom into the recorded image, and a button on the front to disable the flash. Both reduce an action that would normally take a few seconds to half a second, and in reportage that can make all the difference.
What I shoot is quite specific (landscapes) but here goes.
I shoot raw, manual mode, manual focus so most of the settings dont matter too much
I have back button focus switched on, this is good for anyone
I have highlite alert enabled
I manually set white balance and ISO
I do use live view a lot and have magic lantern installed (on canon), and on sony..
I show raw histogram, focus peeking, spirit level etc
I shoot raw, manual mode, manual focus so most of the settings dont matter too much
I have back button focus switched on, this is good for anyone
I have highlite alert enabled
I manually set white balance and ISO
I do use live view a lot and have magic lantern installed (on canon), and on sony..
I show raw histogram, focus peeking, spirit level etc
Edited by RobDickinson on Sunday 31st July 22:50
I generally shoot with Aperture Priority and auto focus, exposure & white balance. I always shoot RAW, so it would take something dramatically out of kilter to mean I couldn't easily edit it afterwards anyway.
The two exceptions to the above are very low light exposures, which I generally do on the B setting and go by trial and error, and macro shooting of bugs and the like, which I do with absolutely everything - flash, focus, exposure, aperture - on manual, and move the camera in and out rather than using focusing the lens. Best way to capture small beasties.
The two exceptions to the above are very low light exposures, which I generally do on the B setting and go by trial and error, and macro shooting of bugs and the like, which I do with absolutely everything - flash, focus, exposure, aperture - on manual, and move the camera in and out rather than using focusing the lens. Best way to capture small beasties.
It depends entirely on what I'm doing.
It seems odd to me that you'd get better results manually focusing. I have a first gen DSLR so my focus is pretty primitive by modern standards, but it's still always spot on. The only downside is that it can be a little slow and occasionally when tracking a fast moving object in AF-C it can lose it momentarily.
VR/IS is also brilliant, indispensable even, especially at longer focal lengths. If I have two of the same lenses, one with one without, I'd always go with the one with. It's very obvious when it kicks in at higher focal lengths, though at 55mm you may have difficulty spotting it.
White balance is auto, ISO remains firmly at 100, again because as a first gen anything much above that and there is excessive noise.
Camera is in manual for anything low light, shutter priority if I need some control over shutter speed for a blurred background on a moving object and mostly one of the automatic modes for anything that needs quick reactions. Manual control is great, but not at the expense of a missed picture.
It seems odd to me that you'd get better results manually focusing. I have a first gen DSLR so my focus is pretty primitive by modern standards, but it's still always spot on. The only downside is that it can be a little slow and occasionally when tracking a fast moving object in AF-C it can lose it momentarily.
VR/IS is also brilliant, indispensable even, especially at longer focal lengths. If I have two of the same lenses, one with one without, I'd always go with the one with. It's very obvious when it kicks in at higher focal lengths, though at 55mm you may have difficulty spotting it.
White balance is auto, ISO remains firmly at 100, again because as a first gen anything much above that and there is excessive noise.
Camera is in manual for anything low light, shutter priority if I need some control over shutter speed for a blurred background on a moving object and mostly one of the automatic modes for anything that needs quick reactions. Manual control is great, but not at the expense of a missed picture.
When shooting weddings with the D750 I'm in Auto ISO (although manually configured, 1/200 minimum shutter speed and 1/12800 max ISO), Auto White Balance and Aperture Priority. AF all the way, but single point rather than anything fancy/clever.
In fact, with the camera pre-configured exactly to my taste, pretty much the only thing I'll touch all day is the aperture value.
Conversely, for Motorsport it's much the same but shutter Priority instead.
In fact, with the camera pre-configured exactly to my taste, pretty much the only thing I'll touch all day is the aperture value.
Conversely, for Motorsport it's much the same but shutter Priority instead.
ukaskew said:
Auto ISO (although manually configured, 1/200 minimum shutter speed and 1/12800 max ISO)... pretty much the only thing I'll touch all day is the aperture value.
If I read that right that leaves the camera to juggle two variables, shutter speed and ISO. How does it know which one to change or is it a bit of both?Richjam said:
Auto focus, white balance etc but always shoot in manual I don't like the camera making decisions for me if I can help it. The down side is it takes a few seconds to change settings which can result in missed opportunities. .
I really dont get this 'I always shoot M' if it's said in bravado (and I dont know if yours is). Because, just like you say, you might get the perfect exposure and focus but the thing's gone so you've missed the shot. I'd rather have a photo of something than the one that got away. Most of the time mine's either in A or P. Sometimes it's even in Auto (and some people dont have that function, I know...). I can judge fairly easily whether for example the camera's meter is giving me 1/125 when I'm af f/4 on ISO400 and looking at the scene that might be a bit dark, it's piss easy to dial in +EV while still squinting and having the camera to my face (or I can just push it later). I'd rather do that than ask whatever it is I'm photographing to hold still. Unless it's a hill, and you're hoping that the sun doesnt move
Everything semi auto with some involvement where appropriate for me when I'm in the field. Everything manual when in the studio
Unless I've got something very specific in mind I'll shoot in aperture or shutter priority mode, autofocus and AWB.
Usually I'll set the ISO manually, generally leave it at 200 for day-to-day shooting. I always shoot in RAW+JPEG in case I want to adjust colouring etc later, although I rarely do now on my 70D.
Usually I'll set the ISO manually, generally leave it at 200 for day-to-day shooting. I always shoot in RAW+JPEG in case I want to adjust colouring etc later, although I rarely do now on my 70D.
Simpo Two said:
If I read that right that leaves the camera to juggle two variables, shutter speed and ISO. How does it know which one to change or is it a bit of both?
It will use the highest shutter speed it possibly can at base ISO, then start bumping the ISO up when 1/200 can no longer be maintained (i.e. 1/200 at ISO400, 1/200 at ISO3200 etc). When it finally reaches the ceiling, so 1/200 at ISO12800 in my case) it will eventually start dropping the shutter speed below 1/200, but as I'm using f1.4 glass it's got to be incredibly dark for that to happen.There are some horrible implementations of Auto ISO out there (the early Sony a7 models spring to mind, which basically just stuck to 1/60 regardless), but Nikon have it nailed. Instead of defining a minimum shutter speed you can also set it to Auto, which will choose a base shutter speed dependent on the focal length of the lens attached, which is fine for static subjects.
Kermit power said:
These people who claim to shoot manual all the time... Are you really faffing around with external light meters and things, or are you somehow able to judge the exact right combination of aperture, shutter speed and ISO in your heads?
They are probably guessing it to start with then checking the histogram. That's what I do when shooting with flash with no TTL.Kermit power said:
These people who claim to shoot manual all the time... Are you really faffing around with external light meters and things, or are you somehow able to judge the exact right combination of aperture, shutter speed and ISO in your heads?
You have an exposure meter in the viewfinder, so its easy enough to alter the required setting while you've got the camera to your eye.OP - If you find you can manually focus better than the camera have you tried doing the micro adjustment of your lens with the camera?
singlecoil said:
They are probably guessing it to start with then checking the histogram. That's what I do when shooting with flash with no TTL.
Flash is a different though, you control the power and the source of the light and already know anything above 1/320th on manual triggers and you're not getting any sync and you've s
t on the ambient if you wanted to pop and burn so you're probably, in any reasonable exposure going to be somewhere between 1/60 and 1/160 so you're compromised already. After that you're picking your aperture, which is going to be limited by shutter speed anyway, or you're changing the flash power to compensate, and matching ISO as a final juggle. With flash, you may as well knock the ISO down, because you already control the light power so wy not
Versus, walking up to a hill and thinking 'F11 at 1/125th, ISO 400 should be OK' and then looking at a white screen thinking maybe I'll try 1/800 instead at F16
andy-xr said:
singlecoil said:
They are probably guessing it to start with then checking the histogram. That's what I do when shooting with flash with no TTL.
Flash is a different though, you control the power and the source of the light and already know anything above 1/320th on manual triggers and you're not getting any sync and you've st on the ambient if you wanted to pop and burn so you're probably, in any reasonable exposure going to be somewhere between 1/60 and 1/160 so you're compromised already. After that you're picking your aperture, which is going to be limited by shutter speed anyway, or you're changing the flash power to compensate, and matching ISO as a final juggle. With flash, you may as well knock the ISO down, because you already control the light power so wy not
Versus, walking up to a hill and thinking 'F11 at 1/125th, ISO 400 should be OK' and then looking at a white screen thinking maybe I'll try 1/800 instead at F16
ukaskew said:
It will use the highest shutter speed it possibly can at base ISO, then start bumping the ISO up when 1/200 can no longer be maintained (i.e. 1/200 at ISO400, 1/200 at ISO3200 etc). When it finally reaches the ceiling, so 1/200 at ISO12800 in my case) it will eventually start dropping the shutter speed below 1/200...
Interesting answer, thanks. Knowing Nikon you can probably choose the priority too.Message Board | Photography & Video | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff