Greenland & Iceland
Discussion
A few folks asked for it so here are a few notes from our recent trip.
To mangle the old football adage "it was a trip of two halves", with the first section being a group hiking holiday in Greenland and then the second bit being self organised in Iceland.
The Greenland piece I'm afraid we chickened out and booked a group hiking holiday rather than go completely independent. This was through Discover the World. We've used them a number of times now and am a happy customer and have no issues recommending them. This hiking holiday is run a couple of times a year in the Arctic summer and having done it I think you could easily book all the flights and accommodation yourself directly.
Getting to Greenland is easy from the UK, quick flight to Reykjavik and transfer from Keflavik airport to the city airport (40kms or so) and then there are scheduled flights (Air iceland) from the city airport to a number of Greenland destinations. We flew into Kulusuk, south eastern Greenland had a couple of days there and then transferred to Tasillaq, again both eastern Greenland for more hiking before doing the reverse and heading back to Reykjavik. From here this time it was a one-way self guided to the south of Iceland and around into the Eastern Fjords ending up in Egilstaddir. from here it's scheduled flights back to Reykjavik city airport, do the transfer to Keflavik and back to the UK.
Greenland stayed at the Arctic Hotel in Kulusuk and then the Hotel Amasillik in Tasillaq. I think both hotels are owned by the same person and the transfer between the two is normally by helicopter (15 mins flight time max) run by his brother but in inclement weather it's 90 minutes on a small boat.
The building on the bottom left is the hotel - so pretty basic and remote but comfy, hot water, cold beer and despite all expectations - really decent food. The majority of food comes in frozen but the current chef is really good and you can easily put on weight despite hiking all day.
Arctic hotel Kulusuk by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
What's Greenland like in the summer? remote, wild, barren, rugged, bare, windy, tons of little flies, quiet, beautiful, unspoilt, uplifting. I really enjoyed it. A couple of mornings in I was out before breakfast taking pictures of the village (20mins walk from hotel) and it was just me and the howl of the huskies being carried on the wind- just incredibly peaceful with the safety net of a good slug of coffee when I got back
kulusk panorama 4 big file by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
The walking around Kulusuk is pretty easy with one bigger hike (14 miles or so taking the round about route) up to the old US radar station. It's worth it though as the view can be really good from up there
radar station view by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
The other advantage is no need to carry a rifle here as definitely no polar bear in summer. There definitely are in winter though as the double glazing in the airport is all smashed on one pane from a polar bear a couple of winters ago
Tasillaq is a larger place, but still only one shop where you can get everything from your food, your socks to a quad bike or an iPad. That's definitely a bit odd coming from a big city. Here if you want something you buy it from the shop and that's it, no shopping around.
As Tasillaq is bigger it regularly gets cargo ships so a decent amount of fresh food as well as frozen, so again the hotel food is very good if you stay where we did. You have to be a bit more organised with the hiking here as you do need a rifle / guide with rifle as there is a direct connection to the main ice shelf, so whilst incredibly unlikely in summer, you could get polar bear when you are a long way out of town. In town is safe. The walking here is a mix of relatively easy around town to more challenging if you venture further afield. A number of knee deep river fordings through glacial melt water on many routes and very few footpaths. The mountains are quite steep with a lot of scree and little vegetation to hold them together. The views from the top can be spectacular - they all seem to be great panoramas with the mountains in the distance looking like a painted backdrop it's so clear.
tasiilaq pan from seamans mountain by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
Going a little later in the year gives you the opportunity for Northern Lights too. We were lucky on a couple of nights, with the first time I've seen many colour apart from the yellowy green
tasiilaq aurora 3 by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
Back in Iceland we just made it up and did a mix of B&B's and then the chain Foss hotels which we found just fine. It's really more about location than anything else given you'll want to be up really early and out late. t's now our 4th time in Iceland and the first time we've gone south and it's my favourite bit so far. A lot of it is very lush and green with a significant amount of farming along the coast
Southern Iceland - acres of green by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
Of the main sites you definitely want to go to as a photographer Seljandfoss will be full of people whenever you go, so just chill and take multiple exposures, you'll be blending a lot of frames to get rid of people if that's what you want to do. Lovely place at sunset.
behind the falls seljalandsfoss 1 by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
Svartifoss is well worth the hike up - super basalt columns framing this waterfall. We had damp and drizzle when we hiked up, but that's Iceland, it was still lovely to see it
Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon is a really great place and might not have that many people. I'd imagine for the guys who are good drone pilots you could get some superb footage flying along this canyon. It's relatively short but super viewing
Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon 1 by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon I thought was simply magical - the icebergs washed up on the back sand beach were totally stunning. If you can it's a sunrise location, otherwise early AM or sunset. We'd passed by when it was raining cats and dogs, so were up early the next morning for a 45 minute dash back down route 1 to get here. Can't recommend this place enough. That being said I got completely soaked a couple of times trying to get a nice iceberg and wave image, so a spotter is useful, or wellies. It took my hiking boots a couple of days to dry out but it was well worth it.
Ice on the beach at Jokulsarlon by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
Further on from Hofn is a super mountain - Vesturhorn -check tide timetables so ensure the tide is in for a reflection shot. This would be another sunrise / early morning shot so you mayhave to choose between this and Jokulsarlon. I think we were there mid-morning and there were still enough shadows to make things interesting. I staying nor near Hofn - try the Packhus for dinner. You can't reserve but the langoustines are great
Vesturhorn reflection 2 by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
From here it was round into the Eastern Fjords, which are really beautiful and on to Egilstaddir and then unfortunately home
And everywhere - Icelandic horses happy to pose and still rocking the early '80s Flock of Seagulls look
Icelandic horses still rock the 1908's haircuts by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
To mangle the old football adage "it was a trip of two halves", with the first section being a group hiking holiday in Greenland and then the second bit being self organised in Iceland.
The Greenland piece I'm afraid we chickened out and booked a group hiking holiday rather than go completely independent. This was through Discover the World. We've used them a number of times now and am a happy customer and have no issues recommending them. This hiking holiday is run a couple of times a year in the Arctic summer and having done it I think you could easily book all the flights and accommodation yourself directly.
Getting to Greenland is easy from the UK, quick flight to Reykjavik and transfer from Keflavik airport to the city airport (40kms or so) and then there are scheduled flights (Air iceland) from the city airport to a number of Greenland destinations. We flew into Kulusuk, south eastern Greenland had a couple of days there and then transferred to Tasillaq, again both eastern Greenland for more hiking before doing the reverse and heading back to Reykjavik. From here this time it was a one-way self guided to the south of Iceland and around into the Eastern Fjords ending up in Egilstaddir. from here it's scheduled flights back to Reykjavik city airport, do the transfer to Keflavik and back to the UK.
Greenland stayed at the Arctic Hotel in Kulusuk and then the Hotel Amasillik in Tasillaq. I think both hotels are owned by the same person and the transfer between the two is normally by helicopter (15 mins flight time max) run by his brother but in inclement weather it's 90 minutes on a small boat.
The building on the bottom left is the hotel - so pretty basic and remote but comfy, hot water, cold beer and despite all expectations - really decent food. The majority of food comes in frozen but the current chef is really good and you can easily put on weight despite hiking all day.
Arctic hotel Kulusuk by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrWhat's Greenland like in the summer? remote, wild, barren, rugged, bare, windy, tons of little flies, quiet, beautiful, unspoilt, uplifting. I really enjoyed it. A couple of mornings in I was out before breakfast taking pictures of the village (20mins walk from hotel) and it was just me and the howl of the huskies being carried on the wind- just incredibly peaceful with the safety net of a good slug of coffee when I got back
kulusk panorama 4 big file by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrThe walking around Kulusuk is pretty easy with one bigger hike (14 miles or so taking the round about route) up to the old US radar station. It's worth it though as the view can be really good from up there
radar station view by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrThe other advantage is no need to carry a rifle here as definitely no polar bear in summer. There definitely are in winter though as the double glazing in the airport is all smashed on one pane from a polar bear a couple of winters ago
Tasillaq is a larger place, but still only one shop where you can get everything from your food, your socks to a quad bike or an iPad. That's definitely a bit odd coming from a big city. Here if you want something you buy it from the shop and that's it, no shopping around.
As Tasillaq is bigger it regularly gets cargo ships so a decent amount of fresh food as well as frozen, so again the hotel food is very good if you stay where we did. You have to be a bit more organised with the hiking here as you do need a rifle / guide with rifle as there is a direct connection to the main ice shelf, so whilst incredibly unlikely in summer, you could get polar bear when you are a long way out of town. In town is safe. The walking here is a mix of relatively easy around town to more challenging if you venture further afield. A number of knee deep river fordings through glacial melt water on many routes and very few footpaths. The mountains are quite steep with a lot of scree and little vegetation to hold them together. The views from the top can be spectacular - they all seem to be great panoramas with the mountains in the distance looking like a painted backdrop it's so clear.
tasiilaq pan from seamans mountain by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrGoing a little later in the year gives you the opportunity for Northern Lights too. We were lucky on a couple of nights, with the first time I've seen many colour apart from the yellowy green
tasiilaq aurora 3 by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrBack in Iceland we just made it up and did a mix of B&B's and then the chain Foss hotels which we found just fine. It's really more about location than anything else given you'll want to be up really early and out late. t's now our 4th time in Iceland and the first time we've gone south and it's my favourite bit so far. A lot of it is very lush and green with a significant amount of farming along the coast
Southern Iceland - acres of green by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrOf the main sites you definitely want to go to as a photographer Seljandfoss will be full of people whenever you go, so just chill and take multiple exposures, you'll be blending a lot of frames to get rid of people if that's what you want to do. Lovely place at sunset.
behind the falls seljalandsfoss 1 by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrSvartifoss is well worth the hike up - super basalt columns framing this waterfall. We had damp and drizzle when we hiked up, but that's Iceland, it was still lovely to see it
Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon is a really great place and might not have that many people. I'd imagine for the guys who are good drone pilots you could get some superb footage flying along this canyon. It's relatively short but super viewing
Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon 1 by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrJokulsarlon glacial lagoon I thought was simply magical - the icebergs washed up on the back sand beach were totally stunning. If you can it's a sunrise location, otherwise early AM or sunset. We'd passed by when it was raining cats and dogs, so were up early the next morning for a 45 minute dash back down route 1 to get here. Can't recommend this place enough. That being said I got completely soaked a couple of times trying to get a nice iceberg and wave image, so a spotter is useful, or wellies. It took my hiking boots a couple of days to dry out but it was well worth it.
Ice on the beach at Jokulsarlon by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrFurther on from Hofn is a super mountain - Vesturhorn -check tide timetables so ensure the tide is in for a reflection shot. This would be another sunrise / early morning shot so you mayhave to choose between this and Jokulsarlon. I think we were there mid-morning and there were still enough shadows to make things interesting. I staying nor near Hofn - try the Packhus for dinner. You can't reserve but the langoustines are great
Vesturhorn reflection 2 by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on FlickrFrom here it was round into the Eastern Fjords, which are really beautiful and on to Egilstaddir and then unfortunately home
And everywhere - Icelandic horses happy to pose and still rocking the early '80s Flock of Seagulls look
Icelandic horses still rock the 1908's haircuts by Christopher Vernon-Parry, on Flickr
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