Image stabilisation - do I need it?

[blueovercream]

I'm looking to buy a (used) mirrorless camera + pancake lens for general all-round use when my DSLR is too bulky to carry. On bikepacking trips, hiking etc.

I've been looking at a couple of Fujifiim options - the X-T2 which, from reading, is my preference and the X-H1 which is a fair bit bulkier but has in-body image stabilisation. No prime lens that I can find has optical stabilisation.

So my question is - do I need image stabilisation? Will I be disappointed without it? I don't think I'll be taking many photos in really low light but dawn/dusk for sure.

Thanks!

[Gad-Westy]

It s certainly handy sometimes. But what lenses are you thinking? As a few Fuji options have OIS. Not quite the same as having IBIS as well but you d not be losing out much.

Sorry, just read the pancake bit. I guess you’re thinking 18 or 27mm?

[Derek Smith]

I find it very effective in low light levels. I can obtain an acceptable image at 1/4 sec and have had the occasion 1/2. It's quite remarkable. I have 7.5 stops of stabilisation on my MFT Panasonic G9 and leave it on all the time - except when videoing.

I had three stops on my Panasonic TZ compact, which I used for holidays etc. The improvement in quality of image was noticeable.

With the bulk, and whether it's worth the extra weight, only you can answer.

[Simpo Two]

blueovercream said:

I'm looking to buy a (used) mirrorless camera + pancake lens for general all-round use when my DSLR is too bulky to carry. On bikepacking trips, hiking etc.

I've been looking at a couple of Fujifiim options - the X-T2 which, from reading, is my preference and the X-H1 which is a fair bit bulkier but has in-body image stabilisation. No prime lens that I can find has optical stabilisation.

So my question is - do I need image stabilisation? Will I be disappointed without it? I don't think I'll be taking many photos in really low light but dawn/dusk for sure.

Thanks!

Depends. On a long lens, it's a useful thing to have. The 'rule' is to have a shutter speed faster then the reciprocal of the focal length (ie if using a 300mm lens use 1/300th or faster. However with good technique you can do much better than this. If your subject is landscapes, which are typically wideish-angle, camera shake is much less of an issue.

In low light and if something is moving, IS/VR won't help freeze the movement; you need a faster shutter speed or bigger aperture or higher ISO (or a combination of those).