ANY PAINTWORK EXPERTS OUT THERE?
Discussion
You can't effing win can you! I bought a plastic car thinking that the days of dents / rust etc were over (apart from chassis maintenance).
Came home in pissing rain on Thursday and like a good boy put my £180 fleece lined water-proof duvet over my pride and joy to keep her warm & dry.
Washed car this morning and noticed that where parts of the cover had most contact with the car the poxy paintwork has discoloured under the surface and has a milky appearance. Tried T-cut / polish etc which brings up the shine but makes sod all difference to the discolouration.
Please tell me there's a magic cure for this or am I going to need a bloody respray?
This would send me over the edge as the last owner spent nearly a grand having the bonnet immaculately painted (the worst affected area)
Could anyone also kindly give me an idea of cost as against the price of a metal car paint job.
All help will be massively appreciated
Thanks Guys - Craigy
Came home in pissing rain on Thursday and like a good boy put my £180 fleece lined water-proof duvet over my pride and joy to keep her warm & dry.
Washed car this morning and noticed that where parts of the cover had most contact with the car the poxy paintwork has discoloured under the surface and has a milky appearance. Tried T-cut / polish etc which brings up the shine but makes sod all difference to the discolouration.
Please tell me there's a magic cure for this or am I going to need a bloody respray?
This would send me over the edge as the last owner spent nearly a grand having the bonnet immaculately painted (the worst affected area)
Could anyone also kindly give me an idea of cost as against the price of a metal car paint job.
All help will be massively appreciated
Thanks Guys - Craigy
Dear Bondingi,
Yes I did, and seeing as the bonnet was the warmest part this would make sense.
Do you have any idea of costs / complications when it comes to a full respray?
Or has anyone else had experience of this or indeed has the illusive miracle cure.
Thanks from a very close to tears Craigy. (notgot thecashofagriffowner)
Yes I did, and seeing as the bonnet was the warmest part this would make sense.
Do you have any idea of costs / complications when it comes to a full respray?
Or has anyone else had experience of this or indeed has the illusive miracle cure.
Thanks from a very close to tears Craigy. (notgot thecashofagriffowner)
Sorry to hear your problems, but maybe you caould get the affected area buffed, using a rubbing compound such as G7 , this removes the top layer of paint, it will have to be done professionally as you can buff to deep and go through the paint, also buffers are quite expensive, Go to your local bodyshop and ask them, i hope this helps,dan
I spray cars for a living.I would say rubbing by hand with a course compound would probably make matters worse.Try polishing with an electric polisher with a damp spongy head.Can be a little messy if you use to much polish.Better still,pay a bodyshop for a couple of hours work,cheaper than a paint job.Also avoid covering the car when wet.Hope this helps
Thanks dan & simon,
Simon, could you tell me whether there are any particular implications in terms of the respraying of parts or all of the car (i.e do you use a special paint or primer etc). It's just that I also have a little micro-blistering on the boot lid (not original paint), so if it doesn't run into thousands then I might take the plunge and have it professionally done, as i'm a fussy git!
Thanks in advance.
Simon, could you tell me whether there are any particular implications in terms of the respraying of parts or all of the car (i.e do you use a special paint or primer etc). It's just that I also have a little micro-blistering on the boot lid (not original paint), so if it doesn't run into thousands then I might take the plunge and have it professionally done, as i'm a fussy git!
Thanks in advance.
Having just rubbed all the fricking bonnet down for a respray, and now got the rest to do I have learnt a lot about sorting GRP for spraying. Luckily with modern filling and stopper compounds the process then just requires a two pack primer before sraying. So to answer your question there is no problem with sprayng GRP. The only problem is the old enemy of the spiders cracks in the surface.
Gadgit.
Gadgit.
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