Cylinder head bolt sequence

[Roy_S2]

Is there a sequence for untightening and tightening the cylinder head bolts?

Roy.

[Pies]

Roy i have some info but not bolt sequence

Drop me a line via my profie and i'll post it as an attachment

[trevytrev]

Roy,

Hopefully this will come out ... (if not email me through my profile and I'll send you the picture)..



Unscrew the bolts in the reverse order when removing.

Trev.

[Roy_S2]

Thanks guys, thats just the job!

Roy.

Edited to ask: Where did you get this picture from? Is it out of the Sierra 4x4 Haynes book?

>> Edited by Roy_S2 on Tuesday 3rd February 22:11

[trevytrev]

Close it was out of the Haynes Ford Sierra V6 manual !!..

Trev.

[Roy_S2]

I probably should go out and buy it. Its probably got all kinds of very useful info like this is. Like what torque to tighten them up to.

Roy.

[Roy_S2]

Erm..., TrevyTrev? What should I torque the head bolts up to? I`m a pest I know!!

Roy.

[trevytrev]

Roy,

Straight from the manual !

First numbers are NM second numbers are LBF FT

Hexagon Bolts ..


Stage 1 39-54 29-40
Stage 2 54-69 40-51
Stage 3 (after 10-20 mins) 95-115 70-85
Stage 4 (after warm up) 95-115 70-85

Torx Bolts ...

Stage 1 35-40 26-30
Stage 2 70-75 52-55
Stage 3 (after 5 mins) tighten 90 degrees further


Hope this is clear !..

Trev.

>> Edited by trevytrev on Friday 6th February 18:26

[Roy_S2]

Thanks TrevyTrev, thats great . I have a bit of a problem though . I was told to change all the cylinder head bolts so I got all new, but the top two middle screws are trapped by the rocker bar, so the rocker bar would have to come off in order to change these two. Should I take the rocker bar off, or leave these two old bolts in? If I take the rocker bar off (held in place by 3 screws - one in each of three blocks), do these too have to be replaced and torqued up?

Roy.

[trevytrev]

Roy,

I guess from a previous posting that you probably want to change the head gaskets which will mean you will need to remove all the bolts, to do this you will have to remove the rocker shafts...

basically the process for removing the heads is as follows... (I had also removed the inlet manifold before this point)

1. undo the rocker cover securing bolts and lift of the covers
2. mark the rocker shafts (so that they can be refitted into the exact position) and undo the rocker shaft securing bolts and remove them. (according to the haynes manual there are also oil splash shields that need to be removed although I did not have them on mine)
3. lift out the pushrods (make sure you keep them in their respective positions in relation to the rocker shafts to ensure that they are refitted in their original locations)
4. Unscrew the cylinder head bolts progressively in the right order.
5. the heads can then be lifted out (hopefully easily, mine were not to bad, just had to tap them a few times with a soft hammer)

refitting is the reversal, torque up the rocker shaft bolts to 59-67 NM or 44-50 LBF FT and torque up the rocker cover bolts to 5-8 NM or 4-6 LBF FT. Also make sure you check and if needed adjust the valve tappet clearances.

I did not replace the rocker shaft bolts on mine, did not think you needed to.

Obviously you must clean up both the heads and the cylinder block where the old gasket is before refitting.

The pictures below show the process which should make it all clearer ...

Trev

[Roy_S2]

Excellent, thats a great help once again TrevyTrev. If we ever meet up remind me to buy you a few

Thanks again,
Roy.

[HarryW]

Not sure if its been mentioned yet but most Ford cylinder heads bolts tend to be the stretch type. So always fit new ones, good practice IMHO even if they're not.
As for torquing up in the tightening sequence, I personally would do it in stages at say 15lb a time, following the sequence every time, obviously.

Harry

[Roy_S2]

What do the inlet manifold bolts need to be torqued up to?

Roy.

[trevytrev]

Inlet Manifold as follows,

as before first numbers are NM and the second lot are LBF FT

Stage 1 4-8 3-6
Stage 2 8-15 6-11
Stage 3 15-21 11-16
Stage 4 21-25 16-19
Stage 5 (engine at normal temperature) 21-25 16-19

and before you ask the tightening sequence is !!



Trev.

[johno]

The Head bolts DO NEED REPLACING after they have been removed.

Also when putting back the inlet manifold you will have used a new gasket (kit available from Ford), make sure the gasket apertures are the correct size for the inlet's otherwise you will be starving the engine of air unknowingly.

Additionally, you will notice that the inlet manifold gasket tends to leak at the bottem of the 'V', make sure you spend some time putting additional Gasket gunk into this area and that the gasket itself fits nicely. Otherwise you will have an annoying oil leak ...

Whilst you have the heads of Roy, I suggest you get them modified, there are great results to be had from just having the valve seats sorted, let alone if you have it ported etc etc ... Well worth the money and you WILL notice the difference.

These may or may not help.









You can see from this one the additional Gasket Gunk at the back, the entire of the mating aurfaces get done, but this gets extra..




I have done this a couple of time now and if you want a hand Roy drop us an email ...

You can see this was done fairly early on in the my S's life and was forced upon me due to knackered exhaust manifolds and the typical 'stuck' nut ...

Do miss it like crazy though !!





>> Edited by johno on Monday 9th February 00:39

[Roy_S2]

Thanks guys. Those piccys are excellent Jonho. I have now done the job, so fingers crossed that it solved my problem. Did think about getting some head work done but decided to do this later. The car has been off the road since October so I just want to get her back on the road where she belongs. Just got a few more bits and bobs to do now so she may be back on the road in a couple of weekends!!

Thanks again for all the help!

Roy.