Mmm MoT - will it fail
Discussion
I'm sure someone in the community will know the answer. I'm in need of an MoT (and that's not just for the car!) but I have noticed during my recent crawling underneath to replace the clutch slave, that the sump is touching the ARB. Aside from the altered handling and risk of damage to sump, would this be a MoT failure or just an advisory?
New engine mounts sat in garage for me to replace and rectify situation BUT as the car hasn't been run since Jun, it is running rough to the point of stalling after the automatic choke leans fuel mix. Starting when cold without a problem - hope is that it just needs a good blast. Catch 22. So as out of test, was wondering what to do first, mounts or rough running?
Happy New Year
MRV
New engine mounts sat in garage for me to replace and rectify situation BUT as the car hasn't been run since Jun, it is running rough to the point of stalling after the automatic choke leans fuel mix. Starting when cold without a problem - hope is that it just needs a good blast. Catch 22. So as out of test, was wondering what to do first, mounts or rough running?
Happy New Year
MRV
Mark, rather than replace the mounts do a quick fix until you have time to do them properly. Go to b&q, they stock inch and a half square metal plates about 2-3mm thick and with a hole in the middle. Buy a pack (of 4 if I recall) take them home and drill the hole out to the size that will go over the engine mount bolt. Then use a hack saw to cut the hole into a slot to one edge.
Having done this, loosen the lower engine mount bolts and the lift the engine with jack and wooden blocks on the sump until you can slip the spacer into the gap created between the mount and chassis as the engine is lifted. Use as many as needed to give you sump to ARB clearance, I needed one each side. Then lower engine and retighten the mount bolts. Takes a few hours, is a quick and cheap temporary fix and will prevent wear to sump.
Mine ran like this for over 2 years until I took the engine out and changed the mounts and there was no detrimental effect
HTH
Mark
Having done this, loosen the lower engine mount bolts and the lift the engine with jack and wooden blocks on the sump until you can slip the spacer into the gap created between the mount and chassis as the engine is lifted. Use as many as needed to give you sump to ARB clearance, I needed one each side. Then lower engine and retighten the mount bolts. Takes a few hours, is a quick and cheap temporary fix and will prevent wear to sump.
Mine ran like this for over 2 years until I took the engine out and changed the mounts and there was no detrimental effect
HTH
Mark
White S3 said:
would this be a MoT failure or just an advisory?
I'd have thought failure.While that part of the anti-roll bar just twists so the handling won't be noticeably affected (imho) the engine is still technically interfering with the suspension plus, of course, should it rub through you will dump a gallon of the slippery stuff all over the Queens highway..... I wouldn't want to be following you!!!!
Marks solution sounds like your best option for a "quick fix"
Mark,
Should have said, I've probably still got my modified shims if you want me to look them out, I will be travelling back to work on Sunday via the Southampton Ipswich game and could drop them off to you, or you could collect from office during the week. Let me know if you want me to look them out
Mark
Should have said, I've probably still got my modified shims if you want me to look them out, I will be travelling back to work on Sunday via the Southampton Ipswich game and could drop them off to you, or you could collect from office during the week. Let me know if you want me to look them out
Mark
mep12345 said:
Having done this, loosen the lower engine mount bolts and the lift the engine with jack and wooden blocks on the sump until you can slip the spacer into the gap created between the mount and chassis as the engine is lifted. Use as many as needed to give you sump to ARB clearance, I needed one each side. Then lower engine and retighten the mount bolts. Takes a few hours, is a quick and cheap temporary fix and will prevent wear.
A quick way to fit the washers is to slacken the engine mount top nut to flush with the end of the thread then use a jemmy against the block to lever the stud down and create a gap between the engine mount and the mount bracket. Slide in the washers, release the jemmy and re tighten the nut. Takes about 10 minutes. Rob.
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Heard that a few times before. Seriously though hope it gets better and you have had a good Xmas and NY