Rear toe in and camber

[Alan461]

Hope someone can help,
I need to confirm the amount of toe in the rear wheels are supposed to have.
I'm guessing it should be somewhere near 1 degree.
Also need to check the camber at normal ride height, my car sits a bit low and has -2 degrees,
is 1.5 about right?

[phillpot]

this can be found in the "useful links wiki", there are some wheel alignment figures towards the end.

How you gonna adjust rear camber?

[glenrobbo]

The two sets of rear camber settings quoted in the useful links are ambiguous as well as contradictory.
1. +1.25 +/- 0.25
2. - ? 0.5 +/-0.25

AFAIK, there are only two ways to alter the rear camber:

a) wedge-shaped shims at the rear hub mounting, or:
b)

I have my suspension settings data sheet tucked away safely somewhere, I'll dig it out in the morning if you like Alan.
I can't remember the rear camber settings, but Austin does handle well

[Alan461]

The car is off the ground so to get the trailing arms at the right height I need to prop them up.
When they are at about the correct ride height the camber will be right so I have confirmation it's set up right.
I'm welding (one of) the traling arm hangers back on to the 2 1/4" stay that forms the rear outrigger,
toe in needs to be perfect when the welds are done.
The information on the wiki I find confusing

[phillpot]

Alan461 said:

The information on the wiki I find confusing

Glad it's not just me!


Logic (to me anyway) would say that in the "good old days" when cars had solid or live rear axles everything must have been zero, So I'd go for something like Toe-in 0 to 10' and camber 0 to very slightly negative (don't go too mad or it will look like a Triumph Spitfire)

[glenrobbo]

Found the data sheet:
I had the geo set up done at Protyre in Stockport, the guy is into the drift scene & was recommended to me.

According to their figures,
Rear camber should be +1.5 ( +0 /-0.5 )
Rear toe-OUT should be 0 to +0.25

Quoted figures are decimal, not minutes.

Austin's rear camber is actually negative:
-1.5 degrees but it seems to work well for me
Toe setting is spot on as Guy Martin would say.

It's important that each side matches, unless you intend to race on the ovals.

Hope this helps Alan. Is this Lawrie's car you're doing?

Edited by glenrobbo on Thursday 5th February 12:20

[Alan461]

Toe out! Bloody hell, I think I'll be aiming for zero.
It's Lawries S3c so hopefully it has adjustment available with shims if needs be.
Also might try and get a centre line down the chassis and check the other side is right.

[Adrian@]

Factory blurb for the S3/S3C is (as in ..copied from a fax from the factory)

camber front -1.0,+/- 0.5 rear is -1.25 +/- 1.00
Toe in front is 0/0.5 total and rear is 0 3.3mm/side

Adrian@

[Alan461]

Ok thanks, camber looks about right.
Toe in at the rear is given as a dimension in mm, this is at the wheel rim maybe?
3.3mm/side is 6.6 inclusive
1 deg sine is .0174 x 381 rim is 6.649mm
Therefore 1 degree toe in.
We had toe out a couple of hours ago, probably need to do this at exactly three in the afternoon for it to be dead on.

[Adrian@]

My thoughts are, that setting the rear using the likes of a Lucas set, people use the set in reverse and set the figure down on paper as toe out ...I use drive over gauges now and my notes say 1/2 to 1 degree toe in.
Adrian@

[Alan461]

That makes much more sense, I'll go with .5 deg toe in can't be far out then

One more thing, where to find 2 1/4" tube?
Looked all over for it, not a common size

[Adrian@]

DON'T ask me that TODAY...I have had to clear out my containers (the site is having houses built on it) AND for payment for the move, the scrap man (and two helpers) had 1/2 a length BECAUSE it was lightly rusty (and I had not used any in the last couple of years!!!) and I said that was the deal (along with ANY other 'S'crap)!!!
Adrian@

Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 5th February 19:46

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi Alan
How mutch do you need, I did have a piece, will look saturday

Alan

[Alan461]

Thanks for your help Adrian, some might have turned up.

Hi Alan, only need about 200mm but another 100mm would help to make a sleeve for the join.

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi Alan
300mm, will see what it is, dont know if I have anything to fit inside but will look.

Alan

[LawrieS]

Hi all, I now have tube both 57mm and 38mm OD and the other sizes for internal sleeve.



Using a local place for the sheet but they are closed at the weekend so will hopefully get that at some point during next week.

Thanks for doing the research Alan

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi
Do you still need me to find a piece of 2 1/4" tube today?.
There are some 2 1/4" about but it is thin wall for exhausts you need 3mm wall thickness min.

Alan

[Alan461]

Looks like Lawrie has it covered but thanks for looking

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi Alan
Thats ok, did have bit 400 long

Alan

[magpies]

I was always told for rear wheel drive....

fronts should have small amount toe in so that on acceleration it goes to parallel

and rear should be slightly toe out as in accelerating then tyres pull forward again to parallel.

Front and Rear camber to be negative - amount depends on what you are using the car for!