Dash Insert Fitting Help

[Lewis's Friend]

Hi All

Just wondering whether anyone had any useful tips for fitting the wood effect dashboard insert back (on an S3)? I had a nightmare with it coming out and it is much worse going back in...

Trying to attach the instrument cluster, the heater controls and fit it into the dash all at once is not going well for me.

How have others done it?

Possible the unique nature of TVR's mean that mine is more of a pain than others as the insert is a very tight fit - not sure if this is the case on others cars or if this is some individual character...!

Thanks

[v8s4me]

It is a difficult job and you are not alone. A second pair of hands will help. Have you filed off the edges of the metal dash? If not do this as it will allow this part to slide freely into the glass fibre moulding; it does make things a quite a bit easier if you can wiggle this about a little bit. From memory, I connected all the heater control wires, speedo/tacho mounting plate etc to the back of the metal dash while my mate was holding it just off the mounting points and then I did up all the nuts while he supported it. Then we eased the whole assembly onto the mounting points. Good luck

[Lewis's Friend]

v8s4me said:

It is a difficult job and you are not alone. A second pair of hands will help. Have you filed off the edges of the metal dash? If not do this as it will allow this part to slide freely into the glass fibre moulding; it does make things a quite a bit easier if you can wiggle this about a little bit. From memory, I connected all the heater control wires, speedo/tacho mounting plate etc to the back of the metal dash while my mate was holding it just off the mounting points and then I did up all the nuts while he supported it. Then we eased the whole assembly onto the mounting points. Good luck

Thanks - I've already dremelled the dial hole out so it doesn't foul. I'm thinking I may do similar to the heater control hole to allow more movement on the cables.

All this while trying to protect the finish! Good fun...

[Sandgrounder]

Jon, I did this job on my S3 a year ago, so I can remember the pain. Don't know if yours will be exactly the same, however I took a couple of mm off the top edge of the metal plate before applying the sticky backed plastic (fake wood). My logic was that the top edge is more hidden so if I messed up it won't show. Then, I remember being able to pull the upper and lower edges of the dash apart to make the gap slightly wider to push dash panel in. Before that I had to remove a bit of dash near the left side of the heater as I nearly broke my fingers undoing the nut. Much better access now. I connected the speedo, etc with the dash plate hovering a couple of inches away from it's home position. Finally, pushed it all in and replaced the nycloc nuts with regular niuts and lock washers so it should be easier next time. The only thing I did that wasn't standard was the heater panel, I ripped it out of the dash which bent the rear brackets, disconnected the cables and removed it. When I put it back in, I threw the original brackets away, pre-drilled two countersunk holes (at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions), connected the cables, installed heater panel , then secured with two black contersunk screws which locate behind the dash panel so heater panel is fixed. Again, will make it much easier if I ever have to do the job again.
Hope this all makes sense, if not, let me know.

Graham

[Lewis's Friend]

Sandgrounder said:

Jon, I did this job on my S3 a year ago, so I can remember the pain. Don't know if yours will be exactly the same, however I took a couple of mm off the top edge of the metal plate before applying the sticky backed plastic (fake wood). My logic was that the top edge is more hidden so if I messed up it won't show. Then, I remember being able to pull the upper and lower edges of the dash apart to make the gap slightly wider to push dash panel in. Before that I had to remove a bit of dash near the left side of the heater as I nearly broke my fingers undoing the nut. Much better access now. I connected the speedo, etc with the dash plate hovering a couple of inches away from it's home position. Finally, pushed it all in and replaced the nycloc nuts with regular niuts and lock washers so it should be easier next time. The only thing I did that wasn't standard was the heater panel, I ripped it out of the dash which bent the rear brackets, disconnected the cables and removed it. When I put it back in, I threw the original brackets away, pre-drilled two countersunk holes (at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions), connected the cables, installed heater panel , then secured with two black contersunk screws which locate behind the dash panel so heater panel is fixed. Again, will make it much easier if I ever have to do the job again.
Hope this all makes sense, if not, let me know.

Graham

Thanks for the reply. I have just done the deed, and have retired to staunch the bleeding...

Sadly, I couldn't file the metal down as I'd already had a finish put on it. In the end, I took a cut out of the dash fiberglass where the heater control cables come in (about 40mm long), which allowed me to fit the dials at one end, bolt up the heater controls and then force the dash apart enough to bolt up the insert.

What a pain! I am praying the electrics haven't been disturbed in the dial cluster...