Clutch stuck

[S3PGA]

Hopefully someone can help me out on this one.

I've finally got round to getting my S3 back on the road after a couple of years rest in the garage.

New battery in this afternoon and she started first time much to my surprise but when I went to put it in gear the clutch pedal moved about 2" then stopped. Tried it again and this time no movement at all.

Any thoughts on how to free it up would be very mucb appreciated.

[DamianS3]

Has the pedal stuck down?

I would take a look at the linkage between slave and clutch lever..

Also check for leaks around master and slave cylinders.

Is the clutch still engaged.

When my slave failed the pedal went down and stayed there.

Damian S3

[S3PGA]

Thanks for your reply Damian.

The pedal is stuck in the up position. I have tried it with the cap open on the filler but it still wont budge.

I haven't tried engaging any gears with the clutch as it currently is, I don't fancy explaining to the wife why I've either put the car through the garage wall or into the hedge.

[White S3]

Without starting it, try to give it a push - you'll soon find out if the car is in gear. If not, and there is resistance in the clutch peddle, I'd suggest getting underneath and checking to see that the clutch arm is free to move. At the same time, it might be worth bleeding it from the slave cylinder.

If it turns out to be the slave, you can find a replacement at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140855794886?_trksid=p20... but you will need to grind it down a bit to fit in the bracket.

MRV

[S3PGA]

Definitely not in gear, pushed it out of the garage for a wash and then back in again with no problem getting it moving.

I'm no mechanic but if the pedal won't budge when the cap of the master cylinder is off does this eliminate the slave as being the source of the problem?

[glenrobbo]

If the clutch master cyl. fluid level hasn't dropped, and the slave cyl actuator rod is moving ok but the clutch fork is solid, it sounds like the clutch friction plate has seized on the input shaft splines or stuck to the flywheel.
Try running the engine up to normal running temp and hopefully the heat soaking through will help to free it off.
A few fairly firm applications of the clutch pedal when all is nicely warmed up could also help. But don't stamp too hard or you could break something.

Do take the car outside the garage before running the engine for any length of time, we don't want you succumbing to exhaust fumes.

Hope this helps, let us know how you get on.

Edit: Also check that the slave actuator rod has not "punched through" the clutch release arm, it can happen.

Edited by glenrobbo on Sunday 22 March 23:36

[Kitchski]

If the pedal's jammed it'll either be a seized up master cylinder, a seized clutch, or an issue with the release arm (sometimes they dislodge or break and you end up attempting to operate a solid piece of bell housing!) More likely to be the first two though, so you need to drain the fluid out and see if the pedal moves after that (don't move it about too much, just enough to confirm the cylinder's not seized). If it does, then the issue is the clutch.

[shoab]

Think that I may be tempted to slack off the pipe at the clutch master cylinder and get someone to gently press the pedal down whilst holding a rag around the pipe to catch fluid which should come out. If the pedal goes down it is further along in the system that the problem is! The emphasis is on gently pressing the pedal so use someone u can trust to do this for you,

[Kitchski]

That's the slightly messier but quicker version of what I suggested

[S3PGA]

Thanks Kitschcki & Shoab.

Would what you're suggesting be the same as taking the cap off the master cylinder and pressing the pedal? If so then it looks like a new master is needed.

Alternatively if I drain off some fluid, disconnect and soak the existing unit in wd overnight would that be a potential fix?

[phillpot]

I don't understand what taking the cap off would achieve?

Personally I wouldn't get WD40 or any other "foreign fluid" in a master cylinder, albeit this one is only for the clutch.


With the amount of leverage available through the clutch pedal I'd have though seized master cylinder unlikely

[Kitchski]

S3PGA said:

Thanks Kitschcki & Shoab.

Would what you're suggesting be the same as taking the cap off the master cylinder and pressing the pedal? If so then it looks like a new master is needed.

Alternatively if I drain off some fluid, disconnect and soak the existing unit in wd overnight would that be a potential fix?

Removing the cap would make no difference, as it's designed to breathe.

[Kitchski]

phillpot said:

With the amount of leverage available through the clutch pedal I'd have though seized master cylinder unlikely

I've seen it on a Griff. If the bore is crusty enough, the force you can exert on the pedal just grinds the piston into the bore, but in fairness you normally notice it pissing fluid all over your carpet before you get to that point!

[S3PGA]

In my made up version of mechanics, taking the cap off would mean there would be no pressure in the system and therefore no resistance in the pedal.

I'll give your suggestions a try and report back but in the meantime thanks for all the pointers.

[phillpot]

S3PGA said:

In my made up version of mechanics.............

I've love to hear your version of how an engine works

[glenrobbo]

This thread is getting a bit surreal.

Our OP may not have a degree in mechanical engineering, but he could sure teach us lot a thing or two about top notch lurking

If this is seriously not a wind-up, may I respectfully suggest that you ask somebody local with a tad more mechanical knowledge to have a look at the problem?

Also consider a manual such as Haynes Sierra or Granada for good educational reading.
Or "The Bible" The TVR S Series by Steve Heath is very handy.
Or you could even try googling the interweb for operating principles of automotive hydraulic clutch systems.

[S3PGA]

I can see how it may look like a wind up, but I promise this is all just down to the slightly twisted workings of my mind.

As to how an engine works, I don't think this forum is quite ready for my version. Might be too scary for anyone to read and I doubt anyone here would ever want to sit in the car if they knew I had already 'fixed' the brakes, radiator, steering bushes etc. All this has been checked by my local Tvr specialist before they closed down (nothing to do with getting away from me I hope) but for some reason the magical workings of a clutch seem to have confused me.

Once the weekend is here I'll get her up on stands and run through to checks you guys have suggested. As long as I don't convince myself the correct tools are a sledgehammer and blowtorch, the car and I should survive long enough to update on the outcome!