Help very poorly 280s no power and poping banging under any
Discussion
So I'm currently on a road trip in my 280s from bucks through the Peak District then Yorkshire dales and then around lakes.
However my 280s wasn't running perfectly when I left, little bit down on power but not too bad. I had changed fuel filter and checked all vacuum pipes air filter etc before I left to try and help but to no avail. I tweaked this timing on my way slightly which helped and stopped it juddering when I pull away occasionally.
However yesterday when I got to the Peak District it started to loose power more then I got a real back ticking noise from, the top end which I thought must be fatal! I then limped it to a stop point checked it over started it again and it no longer ticked like it was going to go bang. It now has very little power and pops and bangs when it does rev up. It also cuts out occasionally/judders when you try and accelerate.
I limped on to Skipton where I am now and it got no worse, I tried advancing the timing a bit to stop it poping but that didn't help much.
I'm guessing I've probably cooked a valve or two and am going to whip the rocker covers off first and set clearanaces/look for missing parts!
Anyone no a good mechanic that works Saturdays near Skipton?
However my 280s wasn't running perfectly when I left, little bit down on power but not too bad. I had changed fuel filter and checked all vacuum pipes air filter etc before I left to try and help but to no avail. I tweaked this timing on my way slightly which helped and stopped it juddering when I pull away occasionally.
However yesterday when I got to the Peak District it started to loose power more then I got a real back ticking noise from, the top end which I thought must be fatal! I then limped it to a stop point checked it over started it again and it no longer ticked like it was going to go bang. It now has very little power and pops and bangs when it does rev up. It also cuts out occasionally/judders when you try and accelerate.
I limped on to Skipton where I am now and it got no worse, I tried advancing the timing a bit to stop it poping but that didn't help much.
I'm guessing I've probably cooked a valve or two and am going to whip the rocker covers off first and set clearanaces/look for missing parts!
Anyone no a good mechanic that works Saturdays near Skipton?
So dived into rocker covers as the noise yesterday made me think something must have been adrift!
All inlet clearances fine but exhaust on 4,5,6 all tight with no movement so have re set those. Nos sign of any damage push rods straight etc.
Plugs all clean bar No.5 a bit gunky
Will change leads and Cap and plugs as 9ve got spares on board.
All inlet clearances fine but exhaust on 4,5,6 all tight with no movement so have re set those. Nos sign of any damage push rods straight etc.
Plugs all clean bar No.5 a bit gunky
Will change leads and Cap and plugs as 9ve got spares on board.
Greymrj! What do you think? Are you doing anything today?Thanks for the offer of help, finally got some Internet signal again!
So after setting valves and changing the plugs, dissy and leads. It ran pretty well just missing a little.
Drove it up to the tan hill inn in North Yorkshire dales and then headed to Ambleside woth it running ok. Then stopped and re started it and it rattled again like something in the top end, then stopped gain hit runs rough again but not as bad as yesterday.
Have now changed oil and filter and put some valve lifter additive in.
Will see what tommorrow brings for a tour round the lakes!
So after setting valves and changing the plugs, dissy and leads. It ran pretty well just missing a little.
Drove it up to the tan hill inn in North Yorkshire dales and then headed to Ambleside woth it running ok. Then stopped and re started it and it rattled again like something in the top end, then stopped gain hit runs rough again but not as bad as yesterday.
Have now changed oil and filter and put some valve lifter additive in.
Will see what tommorrow brings for a tour round the lakes!
I may be wrong but I have a suspicion that is a fuelling problem. The K Jetronic system is very sensitive to fuel pressure changes. There is a fuel pressure sensing device in the system but it wont cope if the fuel pressure drops right down, and the effects can be a bit dramatic in this indirect injection system. It can for example run very weak for a period which tends to induce severe 'pinking' which could be the knocking you have heard for a period, which disappears when the pressure comes back within limits.
When it stops, can you hear the pump working hard, or alternatively not working at all?
If you are still on the original tank it is a safe bet there is some rust, and even bits of the old 'in tank' filter, now in the pump. It isnt a five minute job to get the pump off but with the left rear wheel removed it isnt that bad. Clamp the fuel pipe and remove the pump. If there is any muck in the end then I am afraid all you can do is a temporary fix. There is no effective fuel filtering and the pump itself is quite easily damaged by muck.
If you do find muck then dry the pump then gently tap it down on the end and get as much out as you can. You might then get 50 miles before it happens again.
Remember that if there is any rust in the tank it will accumulate in the petrol swirl pot at the bottom of the tank, where the fuel outlet is. It will get swirled up by spirited driving (this is a TVR after all!), rough roads or even running the tank low and refilling it, all of which you have probably done on your trip!
I had very similar and annoyingly inconsistent problems with mine until I understood what was wrong. I installed a rather 'trick' filter pre-pump until I could get the tank restored, but even that was having to be cleaned out every 2-300 miles!
Let us know what happens please.
and good luck.
When it stops, can you hear the pump working hard, or alternatively not working at all?
If you are still on the original tank it is a safe bet there is some rust, and even bits of the old 'in tank' filter, now in the pump. It isnt a five minute job to get the pump off but with the left rear wheel removed it isnt that bad. Clamp the fuel pipe and remove the pump. If there is any muck in the end then I am afraid all you can do is a temporary fix. There is no effective fuel filtering and the pump itself is quite easily damaged by muck.
If you do find muck then dry the pump then gently tap it down on the end and get as much out as you can. You might then get 50 miles before it happens again.
Remember that if there is any rust in the tank it will accumulate in the petrol swirl pot at the bottom of the tank, where the fuel outlet is. It will get swirled up by spirited driving (this is a TVR after all!), rough roads or even running the tank low and refilling it, all of which you have probably done on your trip!
I had very similar and annoyingly inconsistent problems with mine until I understood what was wrong. I installed a rather 'trick' filter pre-pump until I could get the tank restored, but even that was having to be cleaned out every 2-300 miles!
Let us know what happens please.
and good luck.LR Bean said:
Have now changed oil and filter and put some valve lifter additive in.
Intrigued by the logic behind oil and filter change? greymrj said:
I may be wrong but I have a suspicion that is a fueling problem.
Makes sense to me Valve lifter additive..........
Fair play to you for setting off on such a trip in a poorly car, hope you get sorted and can enjoy the rest of it!
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 27th March 06:50
Theory for oil change being that when I changed it last I put a jar of engine flush in and I was concerned that it had lifted sludge or gunk that may have got caught in a lifter and caused the top end rattle. So thought I'd change it and put the additive in to break down any lumps etc that may be stuck around lifters.
It ran poorly all day yesterday but it kept going and we had a fun day touring round the lakes.
Going to go and see if the valve clearances have changed again as that seemed to cure it on Saturday untill it had its little rattling fit which could have knocked them out. . . . ?
I Will try a fuel flow test at the distribution head too. 750mm in 30 seconds is what I should look for right?
It ran poorly all day yesterday but it kept going and we had a fun day touring round the lakes.
Going to go and see if the valve clearances have changed again as that seemed to cure it on Saturday untill it had its little rattling fit which could have knocked them out. . . . ?
I Will try a fuel flow test at the distribution head too. 750mm in 30 seconds is what I should look for right?
So checked tappets and No 6 was tight again. So slackened that off and set it, now running much better again.
Not perfect though, so think I have a fuel issue too. But don't have much on board to fix fuel issue so am happy to carry on as I am.
Fingers crossed for the 200+miles home!
Still top down and it's all good fun!
Thanks
For your help
Not perfect though, so think I have a fuel issue too. But don't have much on board to fix fuel issue so am happy to carry on as I am.
Fingers crossed for the 200+miles home!
Still top down and it's all good fun!
Thanks
For your help
Wear normally causes the valve clearances to increase. If the valve clearances were tight and at least one has become tight again in a few miles, AND you are getting a sound like pinking then you need to think what could cause it. What could cause the valve clearances to close down? A stretching valve or a valve burning so badly that it is recessing into the head. It is unwise to assume that the heads are compatible with unleaded fuel, this is an early car and could well have had an engine or head change and there are plenty of Cologne 2.8 heads which are not compatible with unleaded. Without additive 'pinking' is likely and pinking will cause rapid valve seat recession. If any valve clearances have closed up again when you get home I am afraid it MUST be heads off for an investigation. Having a valve stretch too far or the head burn through would be very bad news.
Good luck on the trip home but you MUST find the cause of the problem as soon as possible or it could prove costly.
Good luck on the trip home but you MUST find the cause of the problem as soon as possible or it could prove costly.
Have the valve clearance adjusters got a locknut or are they just tight in the rockers? I'm thinking you are having issues with the adjusters not staying in position but it doesn't feel likely that would happen on more than one valve. More likely is you have valve seats that have given up and are burning away.
If that's the case those heads will need to come off, although I'd try to look with an endoscope first, you can get them for peanuts off ebay either to connect to a laptop or smartphone.
If that's the case those heads will need to come off, although I'd try to look with an endoscope first, you can get them for peanuts off ebay either to connect to a laptop or smartphone.
Yep sadly burnt valve seats is all I can think of, I wasn't running lrp . . .am now for what it's worth. Don't think previous owner did either.
If I make it back in time today I might pull the heads off.
Still going for now though, made it to Congleton.
Next stop Leamington to drop my co pilot off!
If I make it back in time today I might pull the heads off.
Still going for now though, made it to Congleton.
Next stop Leamington to drop my co pilot off!
From what I read on ford forums it doesn't look like my heads are/were unleaded.
So got home in OK time (5pm) Pulled both heads off and removed exhaust valves from left hand bank (The one I had to reset the exhaust tappets on) and sure enough no sign whatsoever of any valve seats! remove RH and seats intact oddly!
Ran remarkably well considering the valve was sealing on the casting!
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/IJfRUz6b[/url]
So got home in OK time (5pm) Pulled both heads off and removed exhaust valves from left hand bank (The one I had to reset the exhaust tappets on) and sure enough no sign whatsoever of any valve seats! remove RH and seats intact oddly!
Ran remarkably well considering the valve was sealing on the casting!
[url]|http://thumbsnap.com/IJfRUz6b[/url]Edited by LR Bean on Monday 28th March 22:04
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