Where can I get an air mass meter V8s

[DJR 7]

As the title says, i need to replace the air mass meter on my V8S.

I've seen Powers do an exchange unit for £300.00, is there any other options?

Edited by DJR 7 on Saturday 4th June 10:44

[v8s4me]

My V8S is fitted with a 5AM but if you need a 3AM, there is one on eBay HERE.

Or try Rimmers which sell an afermarket one. An Original Land Rover/Lucas one would be your best bet if you can find one.

[DJR 7]

Thank Joe,

Can i ask, is there much difference between the 3 and the 5?

[v8s4me]

I don't know the answer to that one I'm afraid but someone on this Forum will. So you will probably have your answer by the end of the day.

[GreenV8S]

As far as I remember the 3AM and 5AM are physically similar but have different output characteristics so if you change between them you will need to change the ECU calibration to match. They were both superseded by the 20AM, which is bigger and supports higher air flows so is often used for highly tuned engines, but needs minor wiring mods as well as ECU recalibration to use with the 14CUX.

You don't say why you need to replace it - it is not normally a consumable part and should last the life of the car. If you're trying to diagnose 14CUX ECU related problems Mark Adams has always been the go-to guy for advice and parts.

[DJR 7]

Cheers guys,

I usually use Str8six for all my mechanical work but on this occasion I've entrusted a local garage that usually looks after our van fleet.

The car is very lumpy at low revs, this usually clears around 2500 - 3000 rpm, they have diagnosed the air mass meter, I don't really want to spend £300 if its not the case so I've opted for the £45 one that Joe linked too.

If it works all well and good, if not I've not lost to much. I've arranged to have the car fully restored over the winter, I'm just keen to have some fun in it whilst the sun is shinning, hence I used my local garage, they are only 5 mins away and were able to get the car straight in.

If this isn't the correct diagnoses I'll get it booked in at a specialist.

Appreciate the input, I wish I wasn't all fingers and thumbs when it comes to spanners!

Just to add, all of the usual suspects have been replaced, vacuum, leads, plugs, dizzy cap etc.

[v8s4me]

If you're local to Chesham, you're welcome to try my spare AFM to see if the problem clears.

You should seriously consider having a look at the RoverGauge software and investing just £35 in a cable to connect your ECU to your laptop. You'll be able to diagnose issues like this and save yourself a fortune at so-called "specialists". These is loads of support on the Gridd & Chim forums for this software.

[DJR 7]

Joe,

Thanks for the offer, I've ordered from your link. I will invest in the software, it seems to be the sensible route.

I'm in Aylesbury, so not to far away, once I'm up and running maybe we could have a run out.

[GreenV8S]

DJR 7 said:

The car is very lumpy at low revs, this usually clears around 2500 - 3000 rpm, they have diagnosed the air mass meter

I don't know how familiar your garage is with ECUs in general or the 14CUX in particular, but unless they're very familiar with this type of ECU I wouldn't rely on them to actually know what the problem is and they may well be guessing at your expense. Diagnosis by substitution is unreliable and can work out very expensive.

3000 rpm is about the point that the ECU goes into open loop mode as standard on cat cars (could occur at different rpms if the chip is non-standard) so it could be as simple as faulty lambda sensors, which is a regular recurring source of problems with this setup. Or it could be a faulty coolant temp sender/wiring, or a faulty tune select resistor/wiring - all popular sources of problems. If everything is working perfectly then you would expect the output signal from each lambda sensor to be cycling between rich/lean at less than one second intervals. If the sensor is getting blocked it may be slower. If the sensor has failed or there is a problem anywhere else in the system the output would typically be pegged rich or lean. Diagnosing problems like this is usually fairly straight forward for someone familiar with it who understands how it works, and largely guesswork for everyone else. Up to you to judge which group your garage fits in.

Edited by GreenV8S on Saturday 4th June 15:03

[AMDBSTony]

DJR 7 said:

As the title says, i need to replace the air mass meter on my V8S.

I've seen Powers do an exchange unit for £300.00, is there any other options?

Edited by DJR 7 on Saturday 4th June 10:44

Hi

I have had first hand experience with these in my V8.

Tried to cut cost but in end went for new air mass meter and had Mark Adams write a bespoke map for the car on a rolling road.

Whilst not the cheapest option it will probably turn out to be best value.

[v8s4me]

DJR 7 said:

...I'm in Aylesbury, so not to far away, once I'm up and running maybe we could have a run out.

We are having our monthly meet tomorrow at the Red Lion in Marsworth from 11.30 on. Why not come along and say hello?

[V8S]

v8s4me said:

If you're local to Chesham, you're welcome to try my spare AFM to see if the problem clears.

You should seriously consider having a look at the RoverGauge software and investing just £35 in a cable to connect your ECU to your laptop. You'll be able to diagnose issues like this and save yourself a fortune at so-called "specialists". These is loads of support on the Gridd & Chim forums for this software.

This sounds interesting, but what exactly can you diagnose with RoverGauge on, say, the V8S?

Is it fairly straightforward (with hand holding) or do you need quite a bit of knowledge about the ECU and engine in order to use it?

I have a pinking issue. If I could connect a laptop to the ECU and drive about, could I figure out fairly simply what that problem is caused by?

Cheers!

[GreenV8S]

V8S said:

I have a pinking issue.

Not always obvious and often confused with an exhaust header leak, but if it really pinking then I would start by checking the front pulley timing reference against mechanical TDC (they are often way out) so you know what your actual ignition timing it, then check your plug grade if you haven't already (should be NGK B7ECS or equivalent) and them if still pinking check the mixture - not easily done under load unless you have access to the right equipment but easy enough if you can find somebody locally with a wideband lambda sensor and tailpipe mount.

[V8S]

GreenV8S said:

Not always obvious and often confused with an exhaust header leak, but if it really pinking then I would start by checking the front pulley timing reference against mechanical TDC (they are often way out) so you know what your actual ignition timing it, then check your plug grade if you haven't already (should be NGK B7ECS or equivalent) and them if still pinking check the mixture - not easily done under load unless you have access to the right equipment but easy enough if you can find somebody locally with a wideband lambda sensor and tailpipe mount.

Those are some pretty words, squire, but way over my head.

Colin at TVRSW is checking it out for me in the next fortnight as this stuff is WAAAAAAAAY beyond me.

I think there's a possibility it'll be going on a rolling road if necessary.

[v8s4me]

V8S said:

..I think there's a possibility it'll be going on a rolling road if necessary.

Maybe you just need to put in on an 'A' road and give it a good seeing to?