Steering column bearing replacement
Discussion
I've bought a new steering column bearing (and machined bracket) and wondering what's the easiest way to replace it? I've seen loads of threads on this, but all the hyperlinks to "how to replace it" are gone - 404! Do I undo the top steering UJ and the column slides out, or do I need to remove the steering wheel bolts as well?
Also, do I need a retaining clip? the plastic inner bit (triangular thingy) is securely fixed against the bearing - would take far more force than the clip to move it.
Cheers, Richard.
Also, do I need a retaining clip? the plastic inner bit (triangular thingy) is securely fixed against the bearing - would take far more force than the clip to move it.
Cheers, Richard.
rtg said:
I've bought a new steering column bearing (and machined bracket) and wondering what's the easiest way to replace it? I've seen loads of threads on this, but all the hyperlinks to "how to replace it" are gone - 404! Do I undo the top steering UJ and the column slides out, or do I need to remove the steering wheel bolts as well?
Also, do I need a retaining clip? the plastic inner bit (triangular thingy) is securely fixed against the bearing - would take far more force than the clip to move it.
Cheers, Richard.
Release the UJ clamp.Also, do I need a retaining clip? the plastic inner bit (triangular thingy) is securely fixed against the bearing - would take far more force than the clip to move it.
Cheers, Richard.
Remove spring clip. (Which is a right pain)
For most access remove cowl and unplug the switchgear.
Remove bolts holding column (not the steering wheel nut).
Lift column out.
Remove bearing housing.
Fit new bearing and housing using sealant on the flange and fixings.
Fit everything back with the spring clip being your choice. I refit if it is still in good condition.
You could likely do the job without removing the column completely but access will be a right pain trying to do M5 fixings right down in the footwell particularly if doing it on your own.
Steve
Here you go Richard: Have a read of this whole thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=100...
Yes, you do need the spring steel retainer clip.
No need to remove the steering column completely, just undo the two bolts holding the column support bracket under the dash, and snip a few cable ties to allow enough slack in the wiring loom.
A word of advice when you reassemble the top & bottom u/j couplings: Make sure they are "in phase" ( best to mark them up before removing to preserve correct orientation ) and make sure you use high tensile grade 12.9 bolts or capscrews on re-assembly. There have also been some issues with some lower u/j's ( heavy duty cast type ) being too "hefty" and the pinchbolts stretching before the slot is closed sufficiently onto the splines, resulting in play rapidly developing.
This is not a problem with the smaller lighter cast items, or the forged steel ones.
Good luck!
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=100...
Yes, you do need the spring steel retainer clip.
No need to remove the steering column completely, just undo the two bolts holding the column support bracket under the dash, and snip a few cable ties to allow enough slack in the wiring loom.
A word of advice when you reassemble the top & bottom u/j couplings: Make sure they are "in phase" ( best to mark them up before removing to preserve correct orientation ) and make sure you use high tensile grade 12.9 bolts or capscrews on re-assembly. There have also been some issues with some lower u/j's ( heavy duty cast type ) being too "hefty" and the pinchbolts stretching before the slot is closed sufficiently onto the splines, resulting in play rapidly developing.
This is not a problem with the smaller lighter cast items, or the forged steel ones.
Good luck!
Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 18th March 13:39
My wife is very good at holding a small ratchet from the socket set on the footwell bolts which makes the job a whole lot easier. Unfortunately she's about 500 miles from you otherwise she could have helped..
(definitley easier with two pairs of hands but quite a satisfying job)
I also found that the alloy carrier which came of part of the kit of bits I bought had a different PCD, so just swopped the bearing itself, so may be cheaper if you can just get a suitable bearing.
(definitley easier with two pairs of hands but quite a satisfying job)
I also found that the alloy carrier which came of part of the kit of bits I bought had a different PCD, so just swopped the bearing itself, so may be cheaper if you can just get a suitable bearing.
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