Yellow Connector(ish)
Discussion
I didn't think changing the engine temperature sensor would be the cause of losing the ignition light....
No ignition light but the car still starts - looking at the voltmeter it goes back up to 13v but now I have to rev to 2500 instead of 1500 or so.
I decided to have a look at the connector, forgetting that it had been replaced over a decade ago by straight connections.
Could this be the cause and changing the sensor just a coincidence?
No ignition light but the car still starts - looking at the voltmeter it goes back up to 13v but now I have to rev to 2500 instead of 1500 or so.
I decided to have a look at the connector, forgetting that it had been replaced over a decade ago by straight connections.
Could this be the cause and changing the sensor just a coincidence?
I don't think there's any direct electrical connection between the two problems. The temp sensor is not involved in the ignition warning light circuit. But it's possible that you disturbed wiring while you were changing it which has introduced the fault.
The no-charge warning lamp is normally connected between the switched ignition output and the alternator. The current through the lamp energizes the alternator windings, enabling it to start generating electricity. Without this current, the alternator will need much higher revs to start generating electricity. This matches your symptoms. So what you're looking for is a break in the circuit from the ignition switch, through the no-charge warning lamp to the alternator. Since you were working under the bonnet, I'd start the investigation there.
The no-charge warning lamp is normally connected between the switched ignition output and the alternator. The current through the lamp energizes the alternator windings, enabling it to start generating electricity. Without this current, the alternator will need much higher revs to start generating electricity. This matches your symptoms. So what you're looking for is a break in the circuit from the ignition switch, through the no-charge warning lamp to the alternator. Since you were working under the bonnet, I'd start the investigation there.
Thank you, Peter
While I was changing the sensor a pal was fiddling around near the alternator and must have caught the wire because it was pulled free of the spade connector - not visible because I'd put some shrink-wrap on it years ago.
Hopefully the new temp' sensor will cure the rich running and all will be well for the trip to the Laon Classique in June.
Many thanks again,
Steve
While I was changing the sensor a pal was fiddling around near the alternator and must have caught the wire because it was pulled free of the spade connector - not visible because I'd put some shrink-wrap on it years ago.
Hopefully the new temp' sensor will cure the rich running and all will be well for the trip to the Laon Classique in June.
Many thanks again,
Steve
All is ok with the bulb going out now but there are two things I'm just hoping to clear up in my mind.
1. as long as the voltmeter goes up to 13ish from 11ish after a certain number of revs then the alternator is working and charging the battery even if the bulb/connection is not working?
2. if the bulb goes, is it a dashboard out job or can it be accessed in-situ - temporary back trouble prevents me from twisting in the footwell to try and get a clear look.
Thanks, Steve
1. as long as the voltmeter goes up to 13ish from 11ish after a certain number of revs then the alternator is working and charging the battery even if the bulb/connection is not working?
2. if the bulb goes, is it a dashboard out job or can it be accessed in-situ - temporary back trouble prevents me from twisting in the footwell to try and get a clear look.
Thanks, Steve
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