Starting my TVR s1 after 26 years
Discussion
Hi all. I would appreciate some tips and tricks to help me recommission my TVR S1 after 26 years hibernation.
I have owned my S1 since 1996 and it was my daily driver until the year 2000. I then started a new job which required 90 mile daily commute 5 days a week which was initially made in the S1 until the bottom drivers door hinge/bolt decided to snap on the M25.
I then bought a euro box for the commute and layed up the TVR in my parents garage in the autumn of 2000.
During the winter 2001 fixed the door hinge, addressed weeping radiator with a recore. Changed all the fluids. aI periodicly started the engine monthly via a jump start during next year.
Another new job, marriage, mortgage, kids and the TVR was sadly left in the gagarge untouched for the last 25 plus years.
The good news is the chassis was cleaned and waxoiled from my ownership 1996 had only had a two inch patch of surface rust on the passenger side outrigger which was addressed before I waxoyled the chassis and still looks good today , probably helped as the garage is attached to the house and relatively warm and dry.
I need some tips as how to get the cologne up and singing again. I guess I need to do the following.
1) Change all fuel lines.
2) Change fuel tank.
3) Change all fluids.
4) remove spark plugs and squirt wd 40 down the plug holes?
Any other tips would be appreciated.
Kind regards Nick
I have owned my S1 since 1996 and it was my daily driver until the year 2000. I then started a new job which required 90 mile daily commute 5 days a week which was initially made in the S1 until the bottom drivers door hinge/bolt decided to snap on the M25.
I then bought a euro box for the commute and layed up the TVR in my parents garage in the autumn of 2000.
During the winter 2001 fixed the door hinge, addressed weeping radiator with a recore. Changed all the fluids. aI periodicly started the engine monthly via a jump start during next year.
Another new job, marriage, mortgage, kids and the TVR was sadly left in the gagarge untouched for the last 25 plus years.
The good news is the chassis was cleaned and waxoiled from my ownership 1996 had only had a two inch patch of surface rust on the passenger side outrigger which was addressed before I waxoyled the chassis and still looks good today , probably helped as the garage is attached to the house and relatively warm and dry.
I need some tips as how to get the cologne up and singing again. I guess I need to do the following.
1) Change all fuel lines.
2) Change fuel tank.
3) Change all fluids.
4) remove spark plugs and squirt wd 40 down the plug holes?
Any other tips would be appreciated.
Kind regards Nick
A little drop of diesel in the bores for a while, before you try and turn it on the crank, just in case.
Fresh fuel, new battery and give it a try, if it moved freely by hand. With leads disconnected.
Check for spark and fuel delivery once it's turning over, you might get lucky.
Cologne usually needs the complete fuel system cleaned though.
Fresh fuel, new battery and give it a try, if it moved freely by hand. With leads disconnected.
Check for spark and fuel delivery once it's turning over, you might get lucky.
Cologne usually needs the complete fuel system cleaned though.
good to hear another s potentially back on the road.
i started exactly where you are.
it went a little like ......
a new battery. mine had been on a charger but age had not been kind and couldn’t get to 12.5V standing charge
check on the pistons not sticking in the bores. socket on the pulley to turn over.
went with the spark plugs out to to turn the engine over to minimise compression.
this also gives you the chance to check, clean and gap the spark plugs.
open the dizzy cap, clean all the contacts and arm. put it back together.
drain the fuel tank. put in 5L of new fuel.
drain the oil. replace the oil.
check the swirl pot is full with coolant , and coolant is in the expansion tank.
check the clutch is disengaged when you put your foot on the clutch peddle
put the gear box through all the gears , panic when you think the clutch is stuck on,
check the gears are in neutral
with the handbrake off check the wheels all turn push the car back and forth.
go through all the gears to convince yourself its not stuck in gear
handbrake back on
check all wires are connected.
unplug the coil to dizzy lead
put some rags over the spark plug holes (to save you cleaning the exhaust and sides of the engine bay )
make sure there is plenty of space in front of, and behind the car in case your wrong, and the car might jump forward if you try and start it
with the battery connected, spark plugs out, foot full on the clutch, using the ignition switch key, turn the engine over,
this should turn the engine over on the starter motor battery, moves some clean oil around the block, primes the fuel pump/ fuel lines and circulates any old fuel back to the tank, and build fuel line pressure.
assuming all goes well,
and it doesn’t jump forward or backwards
do this a couple of times.
check for leaks, drips anything on the fuel lines.and at all joints.
fix any you find
remove the rags
refit the spark plugs and leads
refit the coil lead.
sit back in the drivers seat , foot on the clutch, using the ignition switch key .
turn over the engine
smile as the exhaust note reminds you why you purchased the car in the first place.......
after that , pause , relax, get a cup of coffee .
after the heart beat has settled back to a normal level.
you know the engine is fine and it starts, you can go through the rest getting it ready for the MOT.
enjoy
i started exactly where you are.
it went a little like ......
a new battery. mine had been on a charger but age had not been kind and couldn’t get to 12.5V standing charge
check on the pistons not sticking in the bores. socket on the pulley to turn over.
went with the spark plugs out to to turn the engine over to minimise compression.
this also gives you the chance to check, clean and gap the spark plugs.
open the dizzy cap, clean all the contacts and arm. put it back together.
drain the fuel tank. put in 5L of new fuel.
drain the oil. replace the oil.
check the swirl pot is full with coolant , and coolant is in the expansion tank.
check the clutch is disengaged when you put your foot on the clutch peddle
put the gear box through all the gears , panic when you think the clutch is stuck on,
check the gears are in neutral
with the handbrake off check the wheels all turn push the car back and forth.
go through all the gears to convince yourself its not stuck in gear
handbrake back on
check all wires are connected.
unplug the coil to dizzy lead
put some rags over the spark plug holes (to save you cleaning the exhaust and sides of the engine bay )
make sure there is plenty of space in front of, and behind the car in case your wrong, and the car might jump forward if you try and start it
with the battery connected, spark plugs out, foot full on the clutch, using the ignition switch key, turn the engine over,
this should turn the engine over on the starter motor battery, moves some clean oil around the block, primes the fuel pump/ fuel lines and circulates any old fuel back to the tank, and build fuel line pressure.
assuming all goes well,
and it doesn’t jump forward or backwards
do this a couple of times.
check for leaks, drips anything on the fuel lines.and at all joints.
fix any you find
remove the rags
refit the spark plugs and leads
refit the coil lead.
sit back in the drivers seat , foot on the clutch, using the ignition switch key .
turn over the engine
smile as the exhaust note reminds you why you purchased the car in the first place.......
after that , pause , relax, get a cup of coffee .
after the heart beat has settled back to a normal level.
you know the engine is fine and it starts, you can go through the rest getting it ready for the MOT.
enjoy
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