280i clutch troubles
Discussion
Adrian@ said:
Mark, From memory, it is a floating pivot (the eyelet is simply welded onto a bolt) and it then goes through the pedal and allows the whole outer cable to arc...the cable end is above the pedal, just in sight, above the metal runner. TVR's take on the quadrant that Ford used. A@
Thanks Adrian.My thoughts are that the cable can be removed from clutch fork, passed through and then the metal tube drilled to accept a new bolt?...so no bolt on the inner pedal side?...just pivots?
Cheers
Mark
Hi Mark, you should be able to undo the cable end eyelet end above the pedal (most likely 1/4 UNF sticking upwards, maybe an M6) and slide the outer ring off the cable and weld a new bolt onto the ring, all at the pedal end (you might have to release the bell housing 2 x M10 nut and lock nut and reset the gap). I can see a cropped washer that would not normally be there (hey ho). The cable is starting to fray... so it may be a cable replacement anyway. (I should have the cable sat in a bag of cables if you need one). A@
Adrian@ said:
Hi Mark, you should be able to undo the cable end eyelet end above the pedal (most likely 1/4 UNF sticking upwards, maybe an M6) and slide the outer ring off the cable and weld a new bolt onto the ring, all at the pedal end (you might have to release the bell housing 2 x M10 nut and lock nut and reset the gap). I can see a cropped washer that would not normally be there (hey ho). The cable is starting to fray... so it may be a cable replacement anyway. (I should have the cable sat in a bag of cables if you need one). A@
Thanks...I did think the same in regards to the cable, it was a proper one and had hardly any miles on it...i have two weeks until Wedgefest so may well be interested in a cable...that would be great...hope you are keeping well...
Kindest regards
Mark.
Adrian@ said:
Hi Mark,
The cable is starting to fray... so it may be a cable replacement anyway. (I should have the cable sat in a bag of cables if you need one). A@
Hi AdrianThe cable is starting to fray... so it may be a cable replacement anyway. (I should have the cable sat in a bag of cables if you need one). A@
Can you please email me at my old email or at bbwf25@hotmail.com, i would love a new cable...thank you.
Regards
Mark
Email sent...I going to say that from looking today, the cable outer floats through the shell with a rubber bellow. I know the cable I have fits, as it is the same as the M series (BUT there are then two versions of M series cable). We need to check what is there is correct. I have added my phone number to the Email. (some measurements required). A@
Mark,
Hope you’re well mate, been a long time!
Re the cable snapping, I had this on my first wedge, if you look at the cable when the clutch pedal is pressed down, you will see the cable bends through an angle where I’ve marked in yellow. It results in snapped cables, I went through a few.
The plate with the radius the cable runs over, I cut the weld where shown in red, tightened up the radius and re-welded. Never snapped a cable after that.
All the best,
Chris.
Hope you’re well mate, been a long time!
Re the cable snapping, I had this on my first wedge, if you look at the cable when the clutch pedal is pressed down, you will see the cable bends through an angle where I’ve marked in yellow. It results in snapped cables, I went through a few.
The plate with the radius the cable runs over, I cut the weld where shown in red, tightened up the radius and re-welded. Never snapped a cable after that.
All the best,
Chris.
Adrian@ said:
Email sent...I going to say that from looking today, the cable outer floats through the shell with a rubber bellow. I know the cable I have fits, as it is the same as the M series (BUT there are then two versions of M series cable). We need to check what is there is correct. I have added my phone number to the Email. (some measurements required). A@
Thank you Adrian, it might not be as bad as first thought, i managed to remove the metal tube and the cable seems to only of had the outer plastic worn off...getting the bolt welded on later and the burr in the tube sorted...fingers crossed for Wedgefest...Cheers
I will email you back...thank you...
taz turbo said:
Mark,
Hope you’re well mate, been a long time!
Re the cable snapping, I had this on my first wedge, if you look at the cable when the clutch pedal is pressed down, you will see the cable bends through an angle where I’ve marked in yellow. It results in snapped cables, I went through a few.
The plate with the radius the cable runs over, I cut the weld where shown in red, tightened up the radius and re-welded. Never snapped a cable after that.
All the best,
Chris.
Hi ChrisHope you’re well mate, been a long time!
Re the cable snapping, I had this on my first wedge, if you look at the cable when the clutch pedal is pressed down, you will see the cable bends through an angle where I’ve marked in yellow. It results in snapped cables, I went through a few.
The plate with the radius the cable runs over, I cut the weld where shown in red, tightened up the radius and re-welded. Never snapped a cable after that.
All the best,
Chris.
Lovely to hear from you, not too grim thanks, hope you are well.
That is a very informative post and will almost certainly think about the same for mine, it is such a crap design...million thank you's to you
All the best
Mark
Hi Mark/Chris, given that I am seeing a pictorial here (TVR parts manual, which in never 100% right) of the cable that is on the opposite side of the actual pedal arm AND the cable cutting into one edge of the tube are 'we' sure that the cable is its correct position (just a thought, as my 280DH is a fluid clutch system) A@
Adrian@ said:
Hi Mark/Chris, given that I am seeing a pictorial here (TVR parts manual, which in never 100% right) of the cable that is on the opposite side of the actual pedal arm AND the cable cutting into one edge of the tube are 'we' sure that the cable is its correct position (just a thought, as my 280DH is a fluid clutch system) A@
Had a new part made but cannot get it in as the plate to the left of the pedal box is in the way..i even cut the thread down a tad...not sure what to do now, if the tube went on the inside of the pedal or there was a cut in the plate then happy days but at this point in time i am at a lost as to what to do...Adrian@ said:
I have this image from the parts manual...you need some one to check what is on another car. You can see it is this side of the pedal arm, (it may be wrong in the pictorial) A@
Thanks...mine goes the other side of the pedal, i did think of maybe trying it the other but the cable would be going at an angle to the curved part, maybe the solution is having the metal tube so that it can be bolted through form the inside into the tube itself, wont need to be all the way through as it wont need a lot of force, the reason for mine shearing a bolt was that it was done up tight and should pivot...Thanks
Mark
Seems you may have discussed this a bit here...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Also seems to me that you may have to remove the pedal/s to get the part with the bolt welded into place, first picture, as you alluded to the plate on the left is restrictive?
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Also seems to me that you may have to remove the pedal/s to get the part with the bolt welded into place, first picture, as you alluded to the plate on the left is restrictive?
Hi Mark,
I’ve just taken a picture of my clutch cable arrangement…
Seems like the picture Adrian posted from the parts manual is incorrect.
As much as it’s a horrible poorly engineered solution, I’ve never had to replace the clutch cable in 35 years.
Looks like you have an afternoon on your back with the door seal trying to cut you in half, enjoy!
Chris.
I’ve just taken a picture of my clutch cable arrangement…
Seems like the picture Adrian posted from the parts manual is incorrect.
As much as it’s a horrible poorly engineered solution, I’ve never had to replace the clutch cable in 35 years.
Looks like you have an afternoon on your back with the door seal trying to cut you in half, enjoy!
Chris.
BlueWedgy said:
Seems you may have discussed this a bit here...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Also seems to me that you may have to remove the pedal/s to get the part with the bolt welded into place, first picture, as you alluded to the plate on the left is restrictive?
Thanks ...Previously it was the cable that snapped...hopefully have a better solution now...https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Also seems to me that you may have to remove the pedal/s to get the part with the bolt welded into place, first picture, as you alluded to the plate on the left is restrictive?
taz turbo said:
Hi Mark,
I’ve just taken a picture of my clutch cable arrangement…
Seems like the picture Adrian posted from the parts manual is incorrect.
As much as it’s a horrible poorly engineered solution, I’ve never had to replace the clutch cable in 35 years.
Looks like you have an afternoon on your back with the door seal trying to cut you in half, enjoy!
Chris.
Thanks Chris...hopefully the updated version will work, this one has the bolt going through the pedal inner side and then into the tube...fingers croosed I’ve just taken a picture of my clutch cable arrangement…
Seems like the picture Adrian posted from the parts manual is incorrect.
As much as it’s a horrible poorly engineered solution, I’ve never had to replace the clutch cable in 35 years.
Looks like you have an afternoon on your back with the door seal trying to cut you in half, enjoy!
Chris.
Cheers
Mark
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