280i cable clutc to hydraulic conversion
Discussion
Hi
Fed up with snapping clutch cables so have managed to locate a drawing for the clutch slave bracket fitted to the S series cars with the type 9 gearbox, there is a conversion kit available with the MC and SC and a mounting bulkhead bracket for £150, the master has a rose joint fitting that goes to the hole where the metal tube for the cable goes and the slave via the bracket pushes the fork..i was going to remove the pedal box while the dash is out but just sick of the cable crap design that snaps when you least need it to.
I will post up more details once fitted
Cheers
Fed up with snapping clutch cables so have managed to locate a drawing for the clutch slave bracket fitted to the S series cars with the type 9 gearbox, there is a conversion kit available with the MC and SC and a mounting bulkhead bracket for £150, the master has a rose joint fitting that goes to the hole where the metal tube for the cable goes and the slave via the bracket pushes the fork..i was going to remove the pedal box while the dash is out but just sick of the cable crap design that snaps when you least need it to.
I will post up more details once fitted
Cheers
I was asking IF you purchased a TR7 pedal box to modify (there is one on Ebay at 26.00 inc shipping ATM) and I would cover that cost and shipping of the OE TVR item to me (I have two other TR7 modified TVR pedal boxes as they used them from 79 to 85). I was curious to why your pedal box was an issue and what TVR did to modify it (there is an earlier Tasmin box too). A@
Adrian@ said:
I was asking IF you purchased a TR7 pedal box to modify (there is one on Ebay at 26.00 inc shipping ATM) and I would cover that cost and shipping of the OE TVR item to me (I have two other TR7 modified TVR pedal boxes as they used them from 79 to 85). I was curious to why your pedal box was an issue and what TVR did to modify it (there is an earlier Tasmin box too). A@
Hi AdrianI would prefer not to remove the existing pedal box as the hydraulic conversion has a rose joint that fits into the hole where the metal tube fits so coupled with the easy installation of the slave cylinder bracket to the bell-housing it is a lot less hassle than removing the existing box to modify the radius of the cable anchor point, which i agree would be cheaper but has to be done correctly or not at all in reality...it is very kind of you to offer the covering of cost and spare boxes and i always appreciate your help my friend but i think i shall go the route in plan A, albeit at a cost
...I hope you can get to this years Wedgefest so i can buy you a pint or two...Cheers
Mark
Adrian@ said:
Mark, That is cool...I will try my best to get to the Fest.
A@
Cool...that would be great A@
Here is a picture of the radius, as you can see it has a wear mark in it that effects where the cable lies, i did clean up the edges that were fairly rough and the cable sits better as in 2nd pic, still...there is no telling when the cable will eventually snap again...
Old cable, already damaged:
New cable: fully depressed pedal.
Hi Mark, I did this conversion years ago, the gearbox bracket came with the car when I bought it (the vendor did say that this was like hens teeth) . I used a Land Rover MC and Sc (really cheap) and a clevis type rod to go from the pedal to the Mc - no rose joint needed. The reason I mention this is that I'm thinking of getting a tasmin again but I hate the cable clutch and would change it. So...have you details of this £150 conversion kit? Also, is the gearbox/slave cylinder bracket the same as a S series tvr with T9 gearbox?
Regards, Ian
Regards, Ian
madformotors said:
Hi Mark, I did this conversion years ago, the gearbox bracket came with the car when I bought it (the vendor did say that this was like hens teeth) . I used a Land Rover MC and Sc (really cheap) and a clevis type rod to go from the pedal to the Mc - no rose joint needed. The reason I mention this is that I'm thinking of getting a tasmin again but I hate the cable clutch and would change it. So...have you details of this £150 conversion kit? Also, is the gearbox/slave cylinder bracket the same as a S series tvr with T9 gearbox?
Regards, Ian
Hi IanRegards, Ian
Yeah the bracket is the same as the S series and i have a type 9 gear box fitted..I thought £150 was expensive but it is the master cylinder, slave cylinder and bulkhead bracket..it comes with a rose joint on the MC end which i guess will make it slightly easier to install, I am lucky to have friends who can make the bracket from a pdf to scale drawing and the acorn on the end of the slave rod that goes to the fork, there is a mod to the radius that stops cables from snapping but i decided to not remove the pedal box, although £150 sounds expensive 2 x snapped cables is around £130, no brainer for me... i shall be ordering the kit once the bracket has been made and i will post up the results...
Cheers
Hi
So a little further forward on the hydraulic conversion, looks like the 280i original pedal box was replaced with a later type, possibly a 350i?..it thankfully has an opening for a master cylinder, it was not too bad to remove but i have the dash out anyway, so 4 x servo bolts..2 x box retainer bolts and 4 x outer plate screws removed, steering column dropped and some wire cut as they were through the opening when should be below it in the other opening and would have needed the loom to be accessed..that is a nightmare..waiting on the bellhousing bracket and then hopefully stage 2.
The clutch pedal needs to be straightened slightly but the rose joint on the M/C lines up and goes through the hle where the metal tube was.
Cheers
So a little further forward on the hydraulic conversion, looks like the 280i original pedal box was replaced with a later type, possibly a 350i?..it thankfully has an opening for a master cylinder, it was not too bad to remove but i have the dash out anyway, so 4 x servo bolts..2 x box retainer bolts and 4 x outer plate screws removed, steering column dropped and some wire cut as they were through the opening when should be below it in the other opening and would have needed the loom to be accessed..that is a nightmare..waiting on the bellhousing bracket and then hopefully stage 2.
The clutch pedal needs to be straightened slightly but the rose joint on the M/C lines up and goes through the hle where the metal tube was.
Cheers
Mark, that I know of the pedal box does not change, Tasmin 80 to 86DH although the car gets 3 different methods as such, centrifugal, cable, then external as you are creating (the same as mine).
It is the same pedal box on the earlier 79-83 M series (as my 79 3000S has the same with shortened pedals) all the same as I am seeing in your picture.
From what I am seeing the conversion to cable is a bolt on item (I am presuming it can be removed from side of the pedal box by unbolting it). A@
It is the same pedal box on the earlier 79-83 M series (as my 79 3000S has the same with shortened pedals) all the same as I am seeing in your picture.
From what I am seeing the conversion to cable is a bolt on item (I am presuming it can be removed from side of the pedal box by unbolting it). A@
Adrian@ said:
Mark, that I know of the pedal box does not change, Tasmin 80 to 86DH although the car gets 3 different methods as such, centrifugal, cable, then external as you are creating (the same as mine).
It is the same pedal box on the earlier 79-83 M series (as my 79 3000S has the same with shortened pedals) all the same as I am seeing in your picture.
From what I am seeing the conversion to cable is a bolt on item (I am presuming it can be removed from side of the pedal box by unbolting it). A@
Hi AdrianIt is the same pedal box on the earlier 79-83 M series (as my 79 3000S has the same with shortened pedals) all the same as I am seeing in your picture.
From what I am seeing the conversion to cable is a bolt on item (I am presuming it can be removed from side of the pedal box by unbolting it). A@
That is very interesting, thank you...yes the radius part can be removed via 3 x 13mm bolts but then it will need something to replace the pedal stop....the pedal itself looks bent but i think that was done like that on purpose....it sits okay and the cylinder lines up so might not need hardly anything done to it...
From what I am seeing none of mine have stops, I have one of every version (four, I think) used on my cars as spares (I will check the 280 later).
Q. Are the main top bolts through the shell loose items, or have TVR welded M10 nuts in inside of the the box? (so the job only requires the top bolts to be released) there are 5/16 UNF nuts on the M series.
Q. Does the steering column brace attach at those points too and support the box?
I am assuming the servo studs as such, clamp the back of the box to the front shell (four bolts).
I will be doing the pedal box exchange for a refurbished one (moving pedals as such to make a 'long' pedal box versions) as I have done on all my cars (hence having all the original boxes around me). A@
Q. Are the main top bolts through the shell loose items, or have TVR welded M10 nuts in inside of the the box? (so the job only requires the top bolts to be released) there are 5/16 UNF nuts on the M series.
Q. Does the steering column brace attach at those points too and support the box?
I am assuming the servo studs as such, clamp the back of the box to the front shell (four bolts).
I will be doing the pedal box exchange for a refurbished one (moving pedals as such to make a 'long' pedal box versions) as I have done on all my cars (hence having all the original boxes around me). A@
Adrian@ said:
From what I am seeing none of mine have stops, I have one of every version (four, I think) used on my cars as spares (I will check the 280 later).
Q. Are the main top bolts through the shell loose items, or have TVR welded M10 nuts in inside of the the box? (so the job only requires the top bolts to be released) there are 5/16 UNF nuts on the M series.
Q. Does the steering column brace attach at those points too and support the box?
I am assuming the servo studs as such, clamp the back of the box to the front shell (four bolts).
I will be doing the pedal box exchange for a refurbished one (moving pedals as such to make a 'long' pedal box versions) as I have done on all my cars (hence having all the original boxes around me). A@
Hi AdrianQ. Are the main top bolts through the shell loose items, or have TVR welded M10 nuts in inside of the the box? (so the job only requires the top bolts to be released) there are 5/16 UNF nuts on the M series.
Q. Does the steering column brace attach at those points too and support the box?
I am assuming the servo studs as such, clamp the back of the box to the front shell (four bolts).
I will be doing the pedal box exchange for a refurbished one (moving pedals as such to make a 'long' pedal box versions) as I have done on all my cars (hence having all the original boxes around me). A@
Mine were loose bolts at the top, and yes 4 x servo bolts, and 2 x wood screw holding on a plate on the engine side, probably why the whole thing was moving about when depressing the clutch pedal, the steering column is not attached in any way but had to be lowered to remove the box, i think you may be right in regards to the pedal stop, the pedal should not move back if connected to the rose joint of the master cylinder, the clutch pedal has definitely been bent to accomodate at some point though
Cheers
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