350i Misfires under light Throttle - Fine under full!!
350i Misfires under light Throttle - Fine under full!!
Author
Discussion

keynsham

Original Poster:

384 posts

296 months

Sunday 10th May
quotequote all
I have just returned from the TVR club season opener meet. I did 165 miles to get there with no issue but no motorways. On the way home, I came down on the motorway and discovered a misfire.

The car starts and runs fine and accelerates Ok too. It is when you are cruising and just lightly press the throttle that it hesitates and misfires a little. If I put my foot down, the issue goes away.

I checked AI and it says with great confidence the following:

"The most likely cause on a TVR 350i (Rover V8 + flapper‑EFI) that misfires/hesitates on light throttle but pulls cleanly on heavy throttle is a weak or failing ignition component, especially the ignition amplifier (module) or coil.

That pattern — bad at light load, fine at heavy load — is a classic Rover V8 giveaway.

The ignition amplifier on the side of the distributor is the #1 suspect, followed closely by the coil and HT leads.
Light‑throttle misfire is almost never fuel on a flapper‑EFI Rover V8 — it’s almost always ignition breakdown.


Most likely causes (ranked)

Ignition amplifier (Lucas AB14 module)
Heat‑soaks and fails intermittently
Classic symptom: light‑throttle misfire, OK when floored
Often worse when warm
Cheap to replace or relocate to a heatsink"

Does that sound likely? I am supposed to be off to the Spa Classic in ten days so I need to get it properly sorted out. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

mrzigazaga

18,783 posts

190 months

Monday 11th May
quotequote all
A multi-meter is your best bet, could be a failed coolant temperature sender putting the fuel mixture out which would cause a mis-fire at low revs, or a dirty or worn part of the track in the AFM..the old SD1 site seems to be down since the passing of its creator, some info on the SD1 forum, i was trying to link it for the data around values but couldnt...being methodical is key, dont change parts unless they really need it.

Good hunting...if i find anything relevant i will post.

Cheers smile

Wedg1e

27,021 posts

290 months

Monday 11th May
quotequote all
Last time I had similar symptoms it was a broken wire to the throttle pot., but wear to the carbon track in the pot can cause the same sort of issue.

BlueWedgy

455 posts

127 months

Monday 11th May
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
A multi-meter is your best bet, could be a failed coolant temperature sender putting the fuel mixture out which would cause a mis-fire at low revs, or a dirty or worn part of the track in the AFM..the old SD1 site seems to be down since the passing of its creator, some info on the SD1 forum, i was trying to link it for the data around values but couldnt...being methodical is key, dont change parts unless they really need it.

Good hunting...if i find anything relevant i will post.

Cheers smile
Info can be found here:
https://web.archive.org/web/20251108221319/http://...

KKson

3,470 posts

150 months

Tuesday 12th May
quotequote all
Number 1 suspect for me would be the ignition module on the dissy. I've had three fail on me, in 10 years. As others have said, also check wiring to connector to coolant temperature sensor. In the past I've also had the coil break down and also HT King lead break down, where it rested on the rocker cover. Both only misbehaved when warm. Rule is, be VERY systematic when fault finding. Change one component only, and then test it. The coil and HT breakdown were visible in the dark.

adam quantrill

11,637 posts

267 months

Rule number 2, try the free stuff first.

- ht lead in dark
- test TPS for jumping in voltage
- measure CTS hot and cold


keynsham

Original Poster:

384 posts

296 months

Saturday
quotequote all
Just been on a test drive up and down the M4 and All seems well. Actually after replacing the ignition amplifier and coolant temperature sender, the performance seems more lively, especially at low revs. I suppose if I was getting a poor spark there then that would make sense. I have also got a new coil coming. All these oparts are really cheap so it makes sense to replace them. All the old parts seem to be the originals so all 38 years old!!!

mrzigazaga

18,783 posts

190 months

Yesterday (16:46)
quotequote all
Sounds like you are on the right path..hopefull its now sorted...enjoy smile

adam quantrill

11,637 posts

267 months

Yesterday (17:50)
quotequote all
Keep the old ones (especially the ignition amp) as emergency spares (but label them as a little faulty). Especially the ignition amp. that can fail suddenly. Even a faulty one will get you home.

keynsham

Original Poster:

384 posts

296 months

Yesterday (19:04)
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Keep the old ones (especially the ignition amp) as emergency spares (but label them as a little faulty). Especially the ignition amp. that can fail suddenly. Even a faulty one will get you home.
Already packed in my spares kit!! smile