Now i need the bonnet off
Discussion
The sound proofing is falling off. The expanded ali mesh is nackered. Does it help radio reception much, is it worth replacing (£39)? Would all be easier to stick back with the bonnet off and upside down. Main panic is that the offside pivot bolt is nowhere near screwed home. It will not respond to gentle unscrewing attempts despite gallons of WD40, could be wrong thread, cross thread or just rusted solid. If i shear it how do i get at the nut to weld another in or heaven forbid is it just set in fibre glass. Guess i could just try a re-tap from inside the bonnet, but if it goes wrong and i cannot get at the nut! Does anybody know what the captive nut is set in or if it can be got at?
Good tip for sticking stuff to underside of bonnet
withough taking it off:
1. Apply chosen adhesive
2. Find block of wood to sit on top of engine below
sticking area
3. Close bonnet so that it rests on the wood.
4. Attach something to steering wheel to remind you about block of wood the next day.
withough taking it off:
1. Apply chosen adhesive
2. Find block of wood to sit on top of engine below
sticking area
3. Close bonnet so that it rests on the wood.
4. Attach something to steering wheel to remind you about block of wood the next day.
clasabro said:
Main panic is that the offside pivot bolt is nowhere near screwed home. It will not respond to gentle unscrewing attempts despite gallons of WD40, could be wrong thread, cross thread or just rusted solid. If i shear it how do i get at the nut to weld another in or heaven forbid is it just set in fibre glass. Guess i could just try a re-tap from inside the bonnet, but if it goes wrong and i cannot get at the nut! Does anybody know what the captive nut is set in or if it can be got at?
The nut is purely captive in the glassfibre, well it is on mine anyway! Both the bonnet and the body shell have threaded inserts, which is how the fit is adjusted side to side...
Not the answer I think you were wanting, sorry.
Regards
Iain
I've got the same prob with mesh/soundproofing. Anyone recommend a good adhesive for the job?
I like the tip about the wooden plank.
Not sure about the mesh though. I thought that the aerial used the heated rear-screen but I haven't looked to check yet. (Then again, perhaps yours is a convertable - silly me!)
I like the tip about the wooden plank.
Not sure about the mesh though. I thought that the aerial used the heated rear-screen but I haven't looked to check yet. (Then again, perhaps yours is a convertable - silly me!)
The captive nut is glassed-in to the shell.
I had a seized bolt on my Tasmin; although on the headlamp pod but I reckon the same extraction method would work.
My solution was to saw through the bolt stem to remove the bolt and get the pod (or bonnet, in your case) out of the way. I masked the area around the gap whilst I was sawing.
Then I carefully centre-punched the end of the seized bolt stem and drilled it through, using successively larger drills until I was almost at full diameter. By then it was possible to use a small punch and collapse the remainder of the bolt inwards, so it left the captive thread undamaged. A quick run through with a tap to get the crap out of the threads and a new bolt went straight in.
Ian
I had a seized bolt on my Tasmin; although on the headlamp pod but I reckon the same extraction method would work.
My solution was to saw through the bolt stem to remove the bolt and get the pod (or bonnet, in your case) out of the way. I masked the area around the gap whilst I was sawing.
Then I carefully centre-punched the end of the seized bolt stem and drilled it through, using successively larger drills until I was almost at full diameter. By then it was possible to use a small punch and collapse the remainder of the bolt inwards, so it left the captive thread undamaged. A quick run through with a tap to get the crap out of the threads and a new bolt went straight in.
Ian
wedg1e said:
Then I carefully centre-punched the end of the seized bolt stem and drilled it through, using successively larger drills until I was almost at full diameter.
Ian
Left handed drill bits(dont laugh til you've tried it) can be quite effective as an alternative method!!!
Regards
Iain
rev-erend said:
What would happen if the sound proofing was removed completely?
Less weight = more speed
So that's why my SEAC is so fast - and I thought it was down to that token gesture of carbon fibre I found
I've not noticed any problems to the paint work without under bonnet proofing.
I had the same problem in my 350i. The under bonnet sound proofing was totaly off. Take the bonnet off and lay down an a spare piece of carpet, roll up the edges to make it a bit more rigid to work on. Clean off as much crap as you can with a wire brush. LARGE can of EVOSTICK from your local diy. Do exactly what it says by coating both surfaces VERY heavily with no areas left uncoated and leaving for 30mins. Do a small area first working from one side to the other, making special attention to the edges. Have a load of house bricks handy as you need to exert quite a lot of downward pressure to take out the curled up edges. Make sure there is total adhesion by putting the bricks on edge along the whole area that you are sticking. PLEASE make sure that you are in a VERY WELL ventilated area as this stuff is strong and will give you a serious headache after. Let this cure for a couple of days before re-installing......cheers UG
Speed Matters | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff