Starter Heat Shield
Discussion
My RV8 starter was getting more and more sluggish and finally died with just the click of the solenoid. I took it apart to reveal the rotor had a huge split in it, which had gobbled up the brushes.
Anyone know were to get a starter heat shield ? I wanna protect my new one. I have scanned previous topics - aparently they were fitted to 390 and 450 wedges, but no picture in my parts CD.
-Jim
Anyone know were to get a starter heat shield ? I wanna protect my new one. I have scanned previous topics - aparently they were fitted to 390 and 450 wedges, but no picture in my parts CD.
-Jim
Jim - try this link....www.mod-wise.com/page9.html
Had no experience of it but i intend to try it on the new motor i got for the 350.
PS. Hows the SP PDF
drop me a mail when you get chance.
Had no experience of it but i intend to try it on the new motor i got for the 350.
PS. Hows the SP PDF

drop me a mail when you get chance.shpub said:
Get some heat shield fabric. About £5 from www.raldes.co.uk
But of course by the time you buy the 2 jubilee clips that'l take it up to £29.72
Nice find Shpub

Can I assume the mild steel ones suffer from high temperature creep ? Or is it that the phosphorous in the exhaust diffuses into the metal and it cracks up like a china pot ?
I looked at the manufacture date of the starter - it says November 1987 , so I guess it has done quite well really.
I looked at the manufacture date of the starter - it says November 1987 , so I guess it has done quite well really.
No mild steel ones last about 35 seconds before the exhaust wrap is the only thing holding them together. They rot very quickly as the wrap retains water.
I coated mine with several coats of exhaust paint before wrapping to get them to last a bit longer... but I also declared exhaust manifolds consumables along with gearboxes in my persuit of world domination.
I coated mine with several coats of exhaust paint before wrapping to get them to last a bit longer... but I also declared exhaust manifolds consumables along with gearboxes in my persuit of world domination.
No mild steel ones last about 35 seconds before the exhaust wrap is the only thing holding them together. They rot very quickly as the wrap retains water.
I coated mine with several coats of exhaust paint before wrapping to get them to last a bit longer... but I also declared exhaust manifolds consumables along with gearboxes in my persuit of world domination.
I coated mine with several coats of exhaust paint before wrapping to get them to last a bit longer... but I also declared exhaust manifolds consumables along with gearboxes in my persuit of world domination.
Ah, yes corrosion.
I put my new starter on, and the engine fires up instantly now, none of this long slow labouring as before.
The starter I obtained from our friendly local motor factors was a rebuilt Bosch unit with the Land Rover symbol on it. Stampings read 0 001 108 137 and NAD 10038
I guess I have a good NAD now (oo-er).
-Jim
I put my new starter on, and the engine fires up instantly now, none of this long slow labouring as before.
The starter I obtained from our friendly local motor factors was a rebuilt Bosch unit with the Land Rover symbol on it. Stampings read 0 001 108 137 and NAD 10038
I guess I have a good NAD now (oo-er).
-Jim
shpub said:Steve,
No mild steel ones last about 35 seconds before the exhaust wrap is the only thing holding them together. They rot very quickly as the wrap retains water.
I coated mine with several coats of exhaust paint before wrapping to get them to last a bit longer... but I also declared exhaust manifolds consumables along with gearboxes in my persuit of world domination.
Any reason why you don't go the stainless manifolds route?
Stainless steel conducts heat less than mild steel but the wrong grade can have a tendency to crack. I have been assured by reputable sources that their ones are superior quality/grade and are guaranteed for life not to crack! I doubt this guarantee covers racing applications though.
Leo
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