390 otter switch part no please?
Discussion
Good luck getting that answer, I tried and tried and finally wound up with the wrong part(s) shipped from the UK 
Replaced same with a accessible screw-in switch.
However (and assuming your radiator is the same as mine) getting to the switch is not that bad... eyeball it from underneath, then you can slip a small arm and hand in between the open bonnet and nose and manually unsnap the the rearward clip and off it comes. Grady
Replaced same with a accessible screw-in switch. However (and assuming your radiator is the same as mine) getting to the switch is not that bad... eyeball it from underneath, then you can slip a small arm and hand in between the open bonnet and nose and manually unsnap the the rearward clip and off it comes. Grady
graham6520 said:
Hi,does anyone know the part no for an otter switch please?.
Rumour has it,its from a Austin Maestro!
It doesnt look very easy to gain access.
thanks,
Graham
Couldn't tell you what its from, but try RT or Tower view (or the new Wedge parts supplier). You might find it easier to remove the headlamp pod and /or the bonnet to gain better access.
When I took the rad to the local serc for a test they seemed to know what it was. Also supplied a new seal for it. Try them part in hand so to speak?
Anyhow replaceing the rad after getting it tested and I poped the whole f
g lot into the side tank. Short of turning the car upside down I had to take the rad out again.
So when it went off for a re core, the otter 'ole has been sealed up arf,arf.
Anyhow replaceing the rad after getting it tested and I poped the whole f
g lot into the side tank. Short of turning the car upside down I had to take the rad out again. So when it went off for a re core, the otter 'ole has been sealed up arf,arf.
I have to say that if you are going to all the trouble of taking out the headlamp pod etc to get to the otter switch, why don't you just drop the radiator?
I have found that if you run the car up on some ramps, over a pit or just on axle stands you have loads of room to drop the rad out the bottom.
Doesn't take long, about 15 minutes on mine.
I have found that if you run the car up on some ramps, over a pit or just on axle stands you have loads of room to drop the rad out the bottom.
Doesn't take long, about 15 minutes on mine.
FrenchTVR said:
I have to say that if you are going to all the trouble of taking out the headlamp pod etc to get to the otter switch, why don't you just drop the radiator?
I have found that if you run the car up on some ramps, over a pit or just on axle stands you have loads of room to drop the rad out the bottom.
Doesn't take long, about 15 minutes on mine.
I agree - have also dropped the rad in 15 minutes.
However rather than go to the trouble I would agree with MikeB - take the wires off the otter switch and fit an adjustable thermostat somewhere. It allows accurate setting and can be fitted on the pipe to the rad - can get them here for around 20quid with a capillary bulb sensor that can be inserted into the swan neck.
FrenchTVR said:
I have to say that if you are going to all the trouble of taking out the headlamp pod etc to get to the otter switch, why don't you just drop the radiator?
I have found that if you run the car up on some ramps, over a pit or just on axle stands you have loads of room to drop the rad out the bottom.
Doesn't take long, about 15 minutes on mine.
Thats a fairly labourious process, at least for me - removing oil and fuel coolers, fan and shroud, possibly the under spoiler as well, then draining coolant. And then the re-assembly, refilling and bleeding. I'd reckon on a good three hours, vs. probably only an hour to remove pod and bonnet and replace. But hey, it's a long weekend.....
After a few times I found it quite easy but certainly takes time whilst only jacking one side up but the fan rack needed removal. I need to improve that as its a bit Heath Robinson. Biggest problem I had was knocking the damned switch terminals each time re inserting the rad, and the fact that its such an @rse to get at if it leaks. That's why I had it sealed up.
In line sensor fitted now, although I might wire it up one day
On the overide at the moment.
In line sensor fitted now, although I might wire it up one day
On the overide at the moment.
I believe it was originally a Maestro part; got mine from Partco in Derby (01332-341313).
Original number I think was KTP 9017; their new number is UGC GVS104.Cost me about £8.60.
If you fit one, I`d be interested to know what your gauge reads when the fans come in; mine reads around 100F, and the original was the same, which makes me think the the gauge over-reads, since I believe they were supposed to be about 95.
Seems perfectly happy at that, coping easily, not staying on for long, even on the hottest days.
Original number I think was KTP 9017; their new number is UGC GVS104.Cost me about £8.60.
If you fit one, I`d be interested to know what your gauge reads when the fans come in; mine reads around 100F, and the original was the same, which makes me think the the gauge over-reads, since I believe they were supposed to be about 95.
Seems perfectly happy at that, coping easily, not staying on for long, even on the hottest days.
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