Discussion
Hi,
After much electrical fault finding and substitution of parts on my 89 350I I've found that my ECU is (to use a technical term) dodgy giving me a intermittent "hunting" idle. It's a "Flapper" type Lucas 4CU.
All the connections to the unit are good but if I give the ECU some encouragment (via a thump)it starts working fine (dry solder joint?). My local landrover breaker has a used unit going fairly cheap at £99. I've seen comments before that the landrover ones are different. Anyone know whats different in the ECU's, or alternatively have a reliable source of the TVR spec ones? Or would be better contacting Mark Adams for repair? I want to avoid the re-soldering all the joints on the board myself route.
Thanks
Nigel
After much electrical fault finding and substitution of parts on my 89 350I I've found that my ECU is (to use a technical term) dodgy giving me a intermittent "hunting" idle. It's a "Flapper" type Lucas 4CU.
All the connections to the unit are good but if I give the ECU some encouragment (via a thump)it starts working fine (dry solder joint?). My local landrover breaker has a used unit going fairly cheap at £99. I've seen comments before that the landrover ones are different. Anyone know whats different in the ECU's, or alternatively have a reliable source of the TVR spec ones? Or would be better contacting Mark Adams for repair? I want to avoid the re-soldering all the joints on the board myself route.
Thanks
Nigel
Don't know how, if at all, proficient you are with a soldering iron. If you can weild one then I would recommend re-touching all the joints as one is probably a bit dry. Not done it myself but have heard tell this has cured others in the past.
Harry
Apologies just re-read your post properly
, you don't want to do the soldering bit yourself, in which case I would speak to Mark first myself.
>> Edited by HarryW on Friday 8th April 14:15
Harry
Apologies just re-read your post properly
, you don't want to do the soldering bit yourself, in which case I would speak to Mark first myself. >> Edited by HarryW on Friday 8th April 14:15
Word of warning!
Only attempt retouching solder joints when you have exhausted all other possibilities.
Be prepared to pay out for a new ECU if your attempts go wrong.
I'm not trying to put you off but just making you aware of the risk taken.
I retouched mine and all went well. I spent half an hour with the soldering iron and a further half an hour with a magnifying glass and continuity tester looking for solder bridges which can be as thin as a hair!
Make sure you use a clean, fine tipped iron with thin solder. Take your time and don’t overheat any of the joints.
If you're not confident then don't do it.
Best of luck
Leo
Only attempt retouching solder joints when you have exhausted all other possibilities.
Be prepared to pay out for a new ECU if your attempts go wrong.
I'm not trying to put you off but just making you aware of the risk taken.
I retouched mine and all went well. I spent half an hour with the soldering iron and a further half an hour with a magnifying glass and continuity tester looking for solder bridges which can be as thin as a hair!
Make sure you use a clean, fine tipped iron with thin solder. Take your time and don’t overheat any of the joints.
If you're not confident then don't do it.
Best of luck
Leo
Thanks for all the inputs folks. I'm normally OK with a soldering iron but I'm pretty nervous about screwing it up. I've got the first track day of the season at knockhill (in sunny scotland) a week today and would rather limp round than not make it at all
I'll maybe buy the ECU from the Land rover guy as a fall back and then attempt the soldering iron touch up job. Thanks wedg1e for the offer.
I'll maybe buy the ECU from the Land rover guy as a fall back and then attempt the soldering iron touch up job. Thanks wedg1e for the offer. Speed Matters | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff




