Pop-up headlights
Pop-up headlights
Author
Discussion

firefox1712

Original Poster:

1,772 posts

277 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
Hi Chaps!

Pop -up headlights - nearside one seems to pop-up and work when it feels like it and then won't pop down!

Any ideas?

cheers
firefox

pistolar

1,474 posts

290 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
knackered

carl350i

145 posts

272 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
Agree, either knackered or dodgy earth. My lights were playing up and I found a dodgy earth at the rear left corner (behind the wheel. I rebuilt one of my front lights, just needed a good clean and a bit of re-soldering.

thegamekeeper

2,282 posts

304 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
At this time of year probably a bad earth or water in the diode pack on headlight motor

sevans

1,178 posts

289 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
Yep, my money would be on the switch block/diode pack on the side of the motor. The seal can let water in. Also check the connections to the relay's and clean up the switch contacts.

B19 JAE

297 posts

265 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
My nearside lite is a bit dodgy 2 off side is fine n look ded square in position the other is rubbing and looks lik it needs moving over one way is there an easy way to do this? My first wedge new to all this Wedge stuff , love it, but i am gunna have to get use to this tinkering again from what iread so far

streaky

19,311 posts

271 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
B19 JAE said:
My nearside lite is a bit dodgy 2 off side is fine n look ded square in position the other is rubbing and looks lik it needs moving over one way is there an easy way to do this? My first wedge new to all this Wedge stuff , love it, but i am gunna have to get use to this tinkering again from what iread so far
Use fibre/rubber tap washers between the body and the headlamp pod. Remember to wire-lock or thread-lock (or both) the securing bolts when you reassemble - Streaky

B19 JAE

297 posts

265 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
Ok will have a go thanks for the advice
Not rite gud at this tekin stuff in bits lark have the manual, lol , is this the only way to do it remove the whole pod and replace the bits n put back? all that removin fuses n stuff a do skare easy you know

thegamekeeper

2,282 posts

304 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
Its 12v not 240 shouldn't kill you

B19 JAE

297 posts

265 months

Tuesday 27th January 2004
quotequote all
It aint the voltage am worried about its the bank manager for when I mek a rite of the job

firefox1712

Original Poster:

1,772 posts

277 months

Wednesday 28th January 2004
quotequote all
Thanks chaps -

Useful info. It's gone in to workshop for a few jobs and MOT - I'll tell my engineer.

Welcome to Wedging B19

firefox

dickymint

28,209 posts

280 months

Wednesday 28th January 2004
quotequote all
Firefox- If its knackered dont let em charge you £120.00 for a new one! I bought 2 from ebay £30 quid.
Am keeping one so one spare if you need it.

firefox1712

Original Poster:

1,772 posts

277 months

Wednesday 28th January 2004
quotequote all
Dickymint -

Thanks - may take you up on that. What do I look for if I'm looking for replacements - TR7 bits?

firefox

firefox1712

Original Poster:

1,772 posts

277 months

Sunday 14th March 2004
quotequote all
Well guys -

It seems that the popping up of the lights has now been fixed - but they don't pop up and down in unison. My techie is baffled but is sending the car to a bod who has plenty of TR7 experience and knows about such problems. Diode problem apparently.

If you chaps can help I would be most grateful.

dickymint - may still need your spare unit though techie says he doesn't think it is req at present, but you never know.

chin chin
firefox

wedg1e

27,002 posts

287 months

Sunday 14th March 2004
quotequote all
The motors rarely lift and lower together; this applies to all cars that use those motors. Most problems can be traced to the internal limit switches, harness connecors and bad earths. There are also two diodes in the gearbox; usually it's obvious if one or other goes, nothing that anyone with a soldering iron couldn't fix.

Ian

adam quantrill

11,625 posts

264 months

Monday 15th March 2004
quotequote all
On the mechanical side it's also worth greasing that
ball joint in the arm between the motor and
the headlight. If one is sticking that will cause that side to be slower.

danny hoffman

1,617 posts

284 months

Monday 15th March 2004
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A TR7 headlight and motor went for just over £5 on ebay today - someone got a bargain

david.h

437 posts

270 months

Tuesday 16th March 2004
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£5.50 actually! I hope it gets to me in one piece! Mine work at the moment, but one day....

firefox1712

Original Poster:

1,772 posts

277 months

Friday 19th March 2004
quotequote all
Well chaps -

It seems much to my regret me and my tech will be parting company over this matter - at his behest not mine. A great shame. I always felt there was much we could do together; albeit allowing for my state of health.

It appears I got the wrong info about the pods not going up and dowm at the same time. As one or two of you have said that doesn't matter. I thought they stayed down or up together! However it seems that as one goes up the other goes down - not satisfactory of course. As I believed one thing and didn't know the other, I got a bit cross when the car was sent to another party who is apparently an expert in these matters - and I didn't think it was necessary.

So if any of you chaps have any ideas as to how to remedy this problem please let me know - I'll look forward to reading yhour posts. I know a lot has been suggested before, but please keep it coming.

If any of you are from the Morth East Essex area please mail me personally.

Thanks.
firefox