Manifold removal
Discussion
You'll have to have some funky technique to helicoil the heads whilst still on the engine in the car... the rear threads especially are a shade more inaccessible than Rachel Riley's knicker drawer.
Probably need a right-angle drill for a start... and if you go too deep you break into the water jacket.
Apart from that, piece of p155
Probably need a right-angle drill for a start... and if you go too deep you break into the water jacket.
Apart from that, piece of p155

Or do what I did - when one of my manifold/head bolts failed I tapped it out to M10.
Then instead of using a bolt the usual way, I screwed in a stud (after putting the manifold on) and a nut on the stud tightens onto the manifold.
I've been running like this for 8 years now no problems and have had the manifold off once or twice (and the head too actually) and didn't feel the need to helicoil it. It just works.
Then instead of using a bolt the usual way, I screwed in a stud (after putting the manifold on) and a nut on the stud tightens onto the manifold.
I've been running like this for 8 years now no problems and have had the manifold off once or twice (and the head too actually) and didn't feel the need to helicoil it. It just works.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
ARP do some special bolts that have smaller heads, this makes doing them up easier. I think TVR power or ACT sell them, as a Kit with some special lock washers.
Quite right. I'm in the process of changing mine now. The ARP bolts have 3/8" heads, compared to 14mm for the standard HT steel versions. Nordlock washers as well. All from Tim Lamont, as Leigh says.Forums | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


