Front Wheel Camber Wish Bones
Discussion
Investigation is going to start!
Why one front wheel appears to be leaning in from the top compared with the other side? So, wish bones, the "Bible" states Granda/Cortina? However not direct replacements. I'm assuming of course previous owners may have mix and matched? Measurements will be the first option. Thanks for any thoughts. J C.
Why one front wheel appears to be leaning in from the top compared with the other side? So, wish bones, the "Bible" states Granda/Cortina? However not direct replacements. I'm assuming of course previous owners may have mix and matched? Measurements will be the first option. Thanks for any thoughts. J C.The front suspension is Cortina IV arms (top and bottom) with Granada Hubs.
Earlier 2.8 had TVR versions of the 'control' arms, running backwards to chassis, later ones used standard Ford (think so) leading to front of chassis.
If the wheel really does lean out as you describe, I can only think that you have an incorrect part fitted (arms, balljoints, etc), or the chassis is bent somehow.
I don't think you can fit the arms upside down, or back to front, but hey, the ingenuity of idiots can sometimes be astounding !!
Earlier 2.8 had TVR versions of the 'control' arms, running backwards to chassis, later ones used standard Ford (think so) leading to front of chassis.
If the wheel really does lean out as you describe, I can only think that you have an incorrect part fitted (arms, balljoints, etc), or the chassis is bent somehow.
I don't think you can fit the arms upside down, or back to front, but hey, the ingenuity of idiots can sometimes be astounding !!
Thanks Mick/Andy. Maybe the other side is at fault? I did check with a spirit level intially. One side vertical the other leanining in at the top, negative camber. At first I did consider tyre wall distortion. Hopefully jacking up and measurement should reveal the cause. Since it's just been through an MOT worn ball shouldn't be an issue. Could the wrong ones be fitted? J C.
It could be that someone's put a Granada lower arm on which might be longer than the correct Cortina one - but that's just a guess.
Last time I had a front wheel misalignment issue (the tyre was scrubbed to hell) it was down to the breakup of the inner tube of the lower arm's inboard bush:
You can make out three cracks that ran the entire length of the tube; you'd have to suspect the wheel had been bounced off a kerb to do that sort of damage but it happened several years into my ownership and to the best of my knowledge I hadn't kerbed it.
Last time I had a front wheel misalignment issue (the tyre was scrubbed to hell) it was down to the breakup of the inner tube of the lower arm's inboard bush:
You can make out three cracks that ran the entire length of the tube; you'd have to suspect the wheel had been bounced off a kerb to do that sort of damage but it happened several years into my ownership and to the best of my knowledge I hadn't kerbed it.
A bit of techie....
Negative camber means the wheel leans inwards at the top, positive leans outwards.
Some cars DO have positive camber, especially older classics, but most modern sports have (small) negative camber.
OK - Next.
As the amount of camber is very small (like a few mm) a wrong ball joint, incorrectly assembled suspension, even a faulty bush, etc can cause incorrect camber, as well as something bent after accident or even a kerb strike.
If one side appears correct (as far as you can tell) try comparing the two sides and see if there's something that doesn't look right, or something shiny and new, and make sure it matches the other side. Check if arms have been welded up....
Is the car level (springs same compressed length?) - may have a broken spring - it affects camber.
... and so on ....(there's got to be more, I've run out of ideas)
[EDIT - wedgie got that photo in whilst I was typing, that's a great example of damage that isn't easy to see, but can really bugger up the alignment..]
Just be cynical and try to think of anything that can be a cause.
Negative camber means the wheel leans inwards at the top, positive leans outwards.
Some cars DO have positive camber, especially older classics, but most modern sports have (small) negative camber.
OK - Next.
As the amount of camber is very small (like a few mm) a wrong ball joint, incorrectly assembled suspension, even a faulty bush, etc can cause incorrect camber, as well as something bent after accident or even a kerb strike.
If one side appears correct (as far as you can tell) try comparing the two sides and see if there's something that doesn't look right, or something shiny and new, and make sure it matches the other side. Check if arms have been welded up....
Is the car level (springs same compressed length?) - may have a broken spring - it affects camber.
... and so on ....(there's got to be more, I've run out of ideas)
[EDIT - wedgie got that photo in whilst I was typing, that's a great example of damage that isn't easy to see, but can really bugger up the alignment..]
Just be cynical and try to think of anything that can be a cause.
Edited by RCK974X on Sunday 10th April 00:15
The quick way to check if it has by some chance got a Granada lower arm on would be to compare the dimensions of the lower balljoints; although apparently identical at a glance, the Granada's is longer when measured from the outer to inner bolt holes. Thus neither balljoint will fit the other car's arm directly, although you can modify a Granada one to fit the Cortina arm by drilling two new holes which would be obvious; therefore if one balljoint 'plate' is longer than the other with no modification that must be a Granada one on a Granada arm.
I imagine that you could drill holes in the Granada lower arm to accept a Cortina balljoint but haven't tried it.
Factory balljoints were rivetted, I doubt many survive that haven't had the rivets drilled out when new lower balljoints were fitted (the upper balljoints last for decades though!).
I think all that makes sense
I imagine that you could drill holes in the Granada lower arm to accept a Cortina balljoint but haven't tried it.
Factory balljoints were rivetted, I doubt many survive that haven't had the rivets drilled out when new lower balljoints were fitted (the upper balljoints last for decades though!).
I think all that makes sense
Hi again. Just had a "grovel" under "Wesley" and taken a couple of pics' of the front bottom ball joints. The RH is riveted so assume that's an original? The left one, this is the wheel with negative camber, is bolted in so a replacement. It looks as if it is secured by 4 x bolts and maybe at a different angle into the wishbone compared to the other side. Problem identified perhaps??
Can anyone identify a replacement to match the RH side please? (Cortina Mk 4?) Sorry about the pics' quality, difficult to get a focus on. Cheers John C.
Can anyone identify a replacement to match the RH side please? (Cortina Mk 4?) Sorry about the pics' quality, difficult to get a focus on. Cheers John C.Yes, Cortina 3/4/5 all used the same balljoint.
There will be a camber figure but as its non-adjustable what would you do if it was wrong? If you change the b/j's and it looks right, it probably is
Short of serious chassis corrosion or a major impact which would probably be obvious, it looks like you might be on the right track.
There will be a camber figure but as its non-adjustable what would you do if it was wrong? If you change the b/j's and it looks right, it probably is
Short of serious chassis corrosion or a major impact which would probably be obvious, it looks like you might be on the right track.
I hope so Ziga. The make I've ordered are Delphi? Satisfatory I hope? Perhaps Wedges are supposed to have a bit of negative camber? Saga of the hot starting is possibly reaching a successful conclusion. I say "Possibly" Over the weekend smoke machine,to check for induction leaks, satis, coil intermittantly not producing a spark when hot, also coil getting very very hot, replaced. Fuel pump NRV suspect, repaired, now pump is noisier and when switched on makes a pressurizing "clunk" Hot starting much better. So confidence building to tax "Wesley" replace NRV/Ball Joints and give him a dam good thrashing on the road! Cheers John C.
Hi John...Sounding positive mate...Definitely change the coil...The oil inside is probably non-existent so it will get hot and fail..Use good quality or recommended parts..Tickover sells coils and pumps....
Fuel pump
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Capri-Granada-Sierr...
Coil
http://www.tickover.co.uk/shop/contents/en-uk/p646...
Cheers
Ziga
Fuel pump
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Capri-Granada-Sierr...
Coil
http://www.tickover.co.uk/shop/contents/en-uk/p646...
Cheers
Ziga
Thanks Ziga. Pump is a new one from flea-bay deffinately not a bosch.
Nice and shiney though. The NRV spring looked really compressed so, dismantled/reassembled with a new spring. Interestingly the pump before was really quiet, now busses quite loud and a pressurizing sound from the fuel distributor not present before. New NRV on order. The coil replacement is an old one but certainly doesn't get hot like the original. "Wesley" will live again. 
J C.
deffinately not a bosch. Nice and shiney though. The NRV spring looked really compressed so, dismantled/reassembled with a new spring. Interestingly the pump before was really quiet, now busses quite loud and a pressurizing sound from the fuel distributor not present before. New NRV on order. The coil replacement is an old one but certainly doesn't get hot like the original. "Wesley" will live again. J C.Thanks Ian/Andy. The replacement coil I found in amongst my "spares" is devoid of any markings due to age. However it's not getting hot. 
The ballast resistor is mounted on the edge of the rad' also looking pretty old. Doesn't seem to make much difference to starting when disconnected hot or cold. J C.
The ballast resistor is mounted on the edge of the rad' also looking pretty old. Doesn't seem to make much difference to starting when disconnected hot or cold. J C. Forums | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff