Discussion
Hi all.Took my s1 350 for its mot failed on a few items Mainly handbrake.Had a friend go through the rear brakes .After reading Back through the forum...Adjusted the screws ..Now working better .Newish handbrake cable fitted.Notsure if it's the right one .nuts at the end of adjustment on the gable .Caliper arms touching diff.Failed again this morning .No mot..I will try a new cable.Who knows Mike
you should not adjust the handbrake via the cable, this should be setup to alow max travel, and then the small arms should be used to adjust the pads. the system is designed to self adjust but only works if the big arm have full travel. its quite a poor design and often needs adjusting the screw on the small arms. (make sure you use new pins) they need to be locked for the self adjuster to work.
if you disconnect the cable and wind out the screw and then re-lock it, you should be able to pump the large arm, and you should hear a click (this is the self adjuster) (having too short a travel on the cable will stop this working)
if you disconnect the cable and wind out the screw and then re-lock it, you should be able to pump the large arm, and you should hear a click (this is the self adjuster) (having too short a travel on the cable will stop this working)
seems a little expensive, you can get them fully serviced for less than £200 for the calipers a little over 200 if you inc the handbrake bits. they can be a pain to remove, but with the right setup it should take 2-6 hours to remove, and about 2 hours to re-fit, plus about an hour to bleep. new pads (inc handbrake) are 50-140 depending on make, even with new disc's they are about £60-100, but they could be a awkward to change if all the bolts are seized.
Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Wednesday 15th June 15:33
JumboBeef said:
The wedge I just bought has had a recent overhaul of the rear brakes at a garage, to the tune of about a grand......
Stops well though, and the handbrake actually works!
It's money well spent. At least you know they are safe now and work properly. Brakes are important because if they fail it could cost a lot more. A working handbrake on a wedge is always a bonus.Stops well though, and the handbrake actually works!
Tony. TCB.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
seems a little expensive, you can get them fully serviced for less than £200 for the calipers a little over 200 if you inc the handbrake bits. they can be a pain to remove, but with the right setup it should take 2-6 hours to remove, and about 2 hours to re-fit, plus about an hour to bleep. new pads (inc handbrake) are 50-140 depending on make, even with new disc's they are about £60-100, but they could be a awkward to change if all the bolts are seized.
Just looked at the invoice. It was for £1,250 but did include other work so not sure exactly how much the brakes were, sorry.Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Wednesday 15th June 15:33
Handbrake is normally adjusted at caliper end, especially if its not working well enough for mot. You can have rear calipers re furbed for a few hundred quid but labour costs can be high as they are a pig to get at anda take off/ put back on.
not to pee you off but my 350i has never failed an mot in 11 years!!
not to pee you off but my 350i has never failed an mot in 11 years!!
hi mike
i am no mot tester but what i have found is if you can pull the hand brake on then get one click is sufficient to hold the car and pass the mot.
get your back end up, spray those arms/gear and make some small adjustments to your nuts (sounds funny LOL)
its a pig of a job and don't be tempted to over do and find they bind
hotty
i am no mot tester but what i have found is if you can pull the hand brake on then get one click is sufficient to hold the car and pass the mot.
get your back end up, spray those arms/gear and make some small adjustments to your nuts (sounds funny LOL)
its a pig of a job and don't be tempted to over do and find they bind
hotty
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