Discussion
Hi mate..Here is what you need for the rear wheel bearing..You will need two kits as its always best to change them in pairs..As regards to the hub nut..Ideally you would replaced them with new ones, Especially if they are nyloc..The N/S should ideally be castellated nut and a hole should be present for a split pin in the driveshaft/Stub axle..If not then either use new nyloc and once set to the 234ftlbs of torque then draw a line across the nut and shaft and check regularly for any movement..If you have to drill the driveshaft then make sure its done properly..
Wheel bearing:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
Don't have any part numbers for the UJ's..But again its always best to change them in pairs or replace all four...Inner x 2 Outer x 2, Get heavy duty types like Hardy spicer....Cheers...Ziga
Wheel bearing:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
Don't have any part numbers for the UJ's..But again its always best to change them in pairs or replace all four...Inner x 2 Outer x 2, Get heavy duty types like Hardy spicer....Cheers...Ziga
Numbers I have are QH ones... QL-403 (with grease nipple) QL-16204 (without) for my 1982 Tasmin.
Having said that, I discovered the drive shafts on my Vixen have DIFFERENT UJs to each other !!
(later fitted with a TR6 diff and M (?) driveshafts I think, obviously not a pair. )
So it's possible you may have replacement or non-matching shafts etc. If you measure UJ cup diameter and max size across the cups when reassembled, a good shop should be able to cross-ref the part-nos for you...
Having said that, I discovered the drive shafts on my Vixen have DIFFERENT UJs to each other !!
(later fitted with a TR6 diff and M (?) driveshafts I think, obviously not a pair. )
So it's possible you may have replacement or non-matching shafts etc. If you measure UJ cup diameter and max size across the cups when reassembled, a good shop should be able to cross-ref the part-nos for you...
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