Discussion
I've got my MoT in 1/2hr and have just gone on a quick test run in the tasmin.
Despite me rebuilding the calipers last weekend, the brakes still seem to be locking on, after 2miles and little braking the discs are very very hot, too hot to touch without burning myself...yes i have tried...yes it still hurts...yes that was rather silly.
How possible is it that the brake master cylinder has siezed or atleast isnt free moving?
Regards
Iain
Despite me rebuilding the calipers last weekend, the brakes still seem to be locking on, after 2miles and little braking the discs are very very hot, too hot to touch without burning myself...yes i have tried...yes it still hurts...yes that was rather silly.
How possible is it that the brake master cylinder has siezed or atleast isnt free moving?
Regards
Iain
It's had new pads, only a few miles old
Pedal return spring is..well...springy
I havent adjusted the servo.
Just got back from the test station, she passed, CO emissions weree high at first but were ajusted down, brakes were getting very hot on the way out and dragging, took a slightly longer route back via a petrol station, things are improving, so i'm hoping by the time i get to Ettington they'll of sorted themselves out without any more intervention.
Regards
Iain
Pedal return spring is..well...springy
I havent adjusted the servo.
Just got back from the test station, she passed, CO emissions weree high at first but were ajusted down, brakes were getting very hot on the way out and dragging, took a slightly longer route back via a petrol station, things are improving, so i'm hoping by the time i get to Ettington they'll of sorted themselves out without any more intervention.
Regards
Iain
HELP...PANIC BUTTON HAS BEEN HIT WERE ARE CODE RED, I REPEAT WE ARE CODE RED!!!
Despite the brakes behaving fine when i took the car for its MoT yesterday, theyre seizing on again today, just the rears. It looks like the brake balancer is creating a one way valve and not releasing the pressure correctly.
Before i whip it apart and see if there is any crap caught inside it can someone with a 280i with the balancing regulator in the engine bay very near the master cylinder canfirm which way the bolt heads point that hold the two halves of the balancer together?
Do they point bolt heads to the front of the car or to the rear of the car? I need to make sure that I haven't put it in back to front.
(T minus 18hours before departure)
Regards
Iain
Despite the brakes behaving fine when i took the car for its MoT yesterday, theyre seizing on again today, just the rears. It looks like the brake balancer is creating a one way valve and not releasing the pressure correctly.
Before i whip it apart and see if there is any crap caught inside it can someone with a 280i with the balancing regulator in the engine bay very near the master cylinder canfirm which way the bolt heads point that hold the two halves of the balancer together?
Do they point bolt heads to the front of the car or to the rear of the car? I need to make sure that I haven't put it in back to front.
(T minus 18hours before departure)
Regards
Iain
trackcar said:
Bolts are to the front on mine.
Cheers Joo, its not the answer i wanted to hear cos that how mine are too. So its something more sinister than me being stupid! (its your old Princess brakes on the front of my Tasmin btw, with one elongated lug if you remember)
Regards
Iain
Normally, the brake circuit is closed while you have your foot on the pedal, and open to the reservoir when you take your foot off. This is achieved by a small valve in the master cylinder which opens when the piston is fully retracted. There are a couple of different designs for this valve, one uses something rather like a bath plug which is physically pulled away from the valve by the piston, anotehr uses a port which is masked by the piston in the first bit of travel. There are probably other types too. They all have in common that they only work when the piston is fully retracted. There are a couple of problems that can prevent the piston retracting fully. One is the pushrod (to the pedal) adjusted too tight so there is no backlash, another is a clinder with a dirt build up or shoulder stopping the piston coming back fully. If the piston doesn't come back far enough to open the valve, the braking system remains sealed and the moment you get any heat in the system, thermal expansion will make the brakes drag, causing more heat and more drag etc until the whole thing locks solid. Sometimes you can break the seal by stamping on the pedal violently, on the recoil it may just come back far enough to open the valve. Otherwise you just have to wait for it to cool down. The cure is to fix the master cylinder or slacken off the pushrod slightly.
>> Edited by GreenV8S on Thursday 28th July 20:03
>> Edited by GreenV8S on Thursday 28th July 20:03
...in the middle of said yard surrounded by mud, cobbles and about 2inches of water...I wanna cry, the only consolation is that if I dont bring the Tasmin... 
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