Going to look at a 280i in the morning
Discussion
Hello all. First post here. I guess most of you are across the pond. I am going to look at a white 1985 280i tomorrow. The present owner has had the car for 12 years. The car is not driveable because it needs a clutch slave cylinder. Miles are somewhere around 69,000. I guess I am looking for advice since I cannot actually drive the car. I read the buyers guide, but I am looking for a bit more. I have a lot of experience with early Ford Mustangs. I am just finishing up a '66 K-code GT Fastback restoration.
I have to be careful as TVRs don't bring a lot of money here and the market is quite narrow. Fortuneately, the guys isn't asking much for the car.
I have wanted a 280i ever since I saw one on the street several years ago. Later, I had the chance to buy one of the first 1983 Tasmins imported into the US. It was the original showroom car as the first wedges in the U.S. came through Atlanta. In fact, the car had no badging at all as that hadn't yet been worked out. It was silver with navy blue interior and top. I had to pass on it even though the price was pretty reasonable. Someday, I may try to find that car.
Thanks for your help
>> Edited by Joe6pack on Thursday 6th October 03:19
I have to be careful as TVRs don't bring a lot of money here and the market is quite narrow. Fortuneately, the guys isn't asking much for the car.
I have wanted a 280i ever since I saw one on the street several years ago. Later, I had the chance to buy one of the first 1983 Tasmins imported into the US. It was the original showroom car as the first wedges in the U.S. came through Atlanta. In fact, the car had no badging at all as that hadn't yet been worked out. It was silver with navy blue interior and top. I had to pass on it even though the price was pretty reasonable. Someday, I may try to find that car.
Thanks for your help
>> Edited by Joe6pack on Thursday 6th October 03:19
John,
I had a 1983 Tasmin for 15 years until a couple of years ago and the slave cylinder for the clutch was TR7 fitment that was available at any imported parts store. When one of these sits for a long time, things tend to go bad, particularly the hydraulics or electrics. They do better when they are driven regularly. Let me know if I can be of any help to you in your search for a car.
Marshall
I had a 1983 Tasmin for 15 years until a couple of years ago and the slave cylinder for the clutch was TR7 fitment that was available at any imported parts store. When one of these sits for a long time, things tend to go bad, particularly the hydraulics or electrics. They do better when they are driven regularly. Let me know if I can be of any help to you in your search for a car.
Marshall
Apologies if I'm throwing out a red herring.
Is the car not a cable clutch? UK spec Ford engined cars only had a hydraulic clutch up to chassis number 64 or 65 built in May 1980, which was the co-axial unit, after that they reverted back to the standard Ford clutch cable and release arm.
Did the US spec cars have a hydraulic clutch because of the extra cable length would make for a very very heavy clutch on the LHD versions? (Like many early LHS Lotus')
Regards
Iain
Is the car not a cable clutch? UK spec Ford engined cars only had a hydraulic clutch up to chassis number 64 or 65 built in May 1980, which was the co-axial unit, after that they reverted back to the standard Ford clutch cable and release arm.
Did the US spec cars have a hydraulic clutch because of the extra cable length would make for a very very heavy clutch on the LHD versions? (Like many early LHS Lotus')
Regards
Iain
When you say it 'needs' a slave cylinder, do you mean the old one is leaking, or it's physically missing?
If the unit is present, take the casting number and bore size off it and try British car spares suppliers over there. It wasn't a model-specific item so all you need is something that will accept the existing pushrod from the pedal and have more or less the right bore and stroke.
From memory the usual pattern is Girling 64676310 with a 0.70" bore ('70' is usually cast in somewhere) - over here you can still get a seal kit which is about £5. IIRC that cylinder was also used on the Lotus Cortina....
If the unit is present, take the casting number and bore size off it and try British car spares suppliers over there. It wasn't a model-specific item so all you need is something that will accept the existing pushrod from the pedal and have more or less the right bore and stroke.
From memory the usual pattern is Girling 64676310 with a 0.70" bore ('70' is usually cast in somewhere) - over here you can still get a seal kit which is about £5. IIRC that cylinder was also used on the Lotus Cortina....
You might run so search on this forum for the "what to look for" when buying. The archives here are an incredible resource.
I'd be warry of one in tired/tattered condition, particularly the body parts and trim bits. The electrical gremlins can be a nightmare but the mechanical parts can be (generally) sourced.
Most of the drive-train is Ford but as I sure you have discovered from your Mustang experience, parts are no longer in Ford's computer. Thanks goodness for the Internet. Unfortunately with the dollar/pound exchange, parts from the UK are as high as a cat's back.
Owning one over here has not too problematic, there are a "few must" have books you will need and between being handy with tools and having a good (willing) shop when necessary, it's well worth it.
But the worst thing about this forum is that almost ever one rattles on about their V-8 which are ridiculously inexpensive over there and almost unobtainable here.
Sorry to ramble and good luck, Grady
I'd be warry of one in tired/tattered condition, particularly the body parts and trim bits. The electrical gremlins can be a nightmare but the mechanical parts can be (generally) sourced.
Most of the drive-train is Ford but as I sure you have discovered from your Mustang experience, parts are no longer in Ford's computer. Thanks goodness for the Internet. Unfortunately with the dollar/pound exchange, parts from the UK are as high as a cat's back.
Owning one over here has not too problematic, there are a "few must" have books you will need and between being handy with tools and having a good (willing) shop when necessary, it's well worth it.
But the worst thing about this forum is that almost ever one rattles on about their V-8 which are ridiculously inexpensive over there and almost unobtainable here.
Sorry to ramble and good luck, Grady
Thanks for the advice. I looked at the car and took a few pics. It is is raining here and the car was sitting outside on the grass where it has been for the past 8 months. These U.S. cars did use hydraulic clutches and the slave cylinder for this one is present. The owner told me it had been rebuilt, but the guy who rebuilt it used the wrong rebuild kit and as a result it no longer works.
Here is the good:
1. The car ran 8 months ago, but was parked due to the slave cylinder.
2. He only wants $2500 for the car.
3. It has a new top which looks pretty good.
4. The BBS wheels were just refinished and look great.
5. The body panels look good although a little of the clear is lifting in a couple of areas and there are some fitment issues.
6. He says that he had a knowledgable mechanic re-wire and re-ground the car's entire electrical system.
7. He has installed an auxiliary cooling fan.
8. He had all of the U-joints replaced.
9. He says he has about $15k in the car and the receipts to prove it. Of course that is what you get when you let someone else do your work for you.
10. The car was garaged up until 8 months ago.
Here are the problem areas:
1. The front bumper and airdam were torn off by a moron tow truck driver. The bumper is still attached (barely) and will probably have to be replaced as it is split. It is the early large black style. This would be an opportunity to update the car to the new body colored style. The air dam is completely off of the car, but could be put back. One fog light is missing completely
2. The same tow truck driver rammed one side of the exhaust into the pavement while unloading the car.
3. Broken windshield which is probably impossible to find here.
4. The rear bumper has a small piece missing from one corner. He has the piece, but it would need to be re-fitted.
5. Both mirrors are trashed and need to be replaced.
6. The red interior is kind of rough. He said he just had the seats recovered, but they aren't to my satisfaction. A lot of the vinyl is faded. The wood veneer on the dash is ok, but it is mostly missing from the door handles. Everything looks kind of ratty. In my opinion, the interior needs to be completely re-done.
7. The A/C was removed from the car by the previous owner. This I don't know if I care about. Its a vert, so why have it out with the top up and the A/C on.
I am really tempted by the price, but concerned about what I might have in it by the time I am done. The engine and drivetrain do not bother me, nor does the body work (although I am concerned about the availability of parts here in the states). The interior, however, does kind of bother me. Are there interior kits available for these cars or would everything have to be custom? I may try and post a few pics later. Thanks for all of the response. Take care.
Here is the good:
1. The car ran 8 months ago, but was parked due to the slave cylinder.
2. He only wants $2500 for the car.
3. It has a new top which looks pretty good.
4. The BBS wheels were just refinished and look great.
5. The body panels look good although a little of the clear is lifting in a couple of areas and there are some fitment issues.
6. He says that he had a knowledgable mechanic re-wire and re-ground the car's entire electrical system.
7. He has installed an auxiliary cooling fan.
8. He had all of the U-joints replaced.
9. He says he has about $15k in the car and the receipts to prove it. Of course that is what you get when you let someone else do your work for you.
10. The car was garaged up until 8 months ago.
Here are the problem areas:
1. The front bumper and airdam were torn off by a moron tow truck driver. The bumper is still attached (barely) and will probably have to be replaced as it is split. It is the early large black style. This would be an opportunity to update the car to the new body colored style. The air dam is completely off of the car, but could be put back. One fog light is missing completely
2. The same tow truck driver rammed one side of the exhaust into the pavement while unloading the car.
3. Broken windshield which is probably impossible to find here.
4. The rear bumper has a small piece missing from one corner. He has the piece, but it would need to be re-fitted.
5. Both mirrors are trashed and need to be replaced.
6. The red interior is kind of rough. He said he just had the seats recovered, but they aren't to my satisfaction. A lot of the vinyl is faded. The wood veneer on the dash is ok, but it is mostly missing from the door handles. Everything looks kind of ratty. In my opinion, the interior needs to be completely re-done.
7. The A/C was removed from the car by the previous owner. This I don't know if I care about. Its a vert, so why have it out with the top up and the A/C on.
I am really tempted by the price, but concerned about what I might have in it by the time I am done. The engine and drivetrain do not bother me, nor does the body work (although I am concerned about the availability of parts here in the states). The interior, however, does kind of bother me. Are there interior kits available for these cars or would everything have to be custom? I may try and post a few pics later. Thanks for all of the response. Take care.
The bumper and air dam can be got via Trevor at TET Mouldings. Fit whichever aftermarket fogs you fancy.
Exhaust should be sortable even if it means replacing one pipe, anyone with a Mig welder and the right wire/gas can do that
The windscreen is availible in the UK, Steve Evans (SEvans) recently got his replaced, might be worth an email to him to see who he sourced it from ad whether they export
You can sort the rear bumper easily
Mirrors; fit your favourite aftermarket ones
You can get vinyl dyes for the interior, the door handle verneer often goes, there was an artical on the Wedge pages on this not so long ago www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk or you local furniture restorer may be able to help
Air con just wastes power!
There you go, job done the only thing you need to import is a bumper and a windscreen. Go on...live a little
Regards
Iain
Exhaust should be sortable even if it means replacing one pipe, anyone with a Mig welder and the right wire/gas can do that
The windscreen is availible in the UK, Steve Evans (SEvans) recently got his replaced, might be worth an email to him to see who he sourced it from ad whether they export
You can sort the rear bumper easily
Mirrors; fit your favourite aftermarket ones
You can get vinyl dyes for the interior, the door handle verneer often goes, there was an artical on the Wedge pages on this not so long ago www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk or you local furniture restorer may be able to help
Air con just wastes power!
There you go, job done the only thing you need to import is a bumper and a windscreen. Go on...live a little
Regards
Iain
John, you didn't mention the outriggers. LOOK at the frame for rust!! My car also came out of Atlanta and has a very solid frame and out riggers but I would not consider any TVR unless I looked closely at the chassic. If you are looking to turn this over into some fast cash then consider the loss that the present owner took on it. These are great cars that will give you lots of years of fun (and aggravation), but have a limited resale market here in the States. My car isn't near perfect and I would have had to "give it away", so I made it fit my needs instead. Frankly, I love it but few others do. Mechanical parts are not a big issue even over here and the body parts that you need are still available (spoiler,frt bumper and mirrors) at very reasonable prices. The interior can be costly or you can up-date it with after market or used parts (lots of people have used Fiero seats). There are others US pistonheads that are dedicated to these cars and we support each other.........in fact I have a clutch slave cylinder that you are welcome to (FREE). It has been out of the car for 2 years but should work or be a good rebuildable. If your going to buy it, do it for the right reasons. Allan
Price sounds good but as stated by this group, limited resale value in the US so you will no doubt put more into it than you can get out of it. Definitely check for rust on the frame. Also check engine thoroughly as it is a GERMAN Ford and parts, while available are scarce and pricey. If it has more than 70-80,000 miles plan on at least a top end. Nice thing is that these are almost like Kit Cars in that you can customize or adapt many other parts. Pure bvlast to drive as it handles great and has adequate power.
Thanks for the replys. I am not looking to turn a buck. I could do that all day long with Mustangs. It is a car that I have always wanted. It is also rare and unique while being a legitimate production automobile. Trust me, I know how limited the market is for these cars even among British car enthusiasts. I am leaning towards buying the car if for no other reason than to rescue it from its current situation. It would certainly be a challenge.
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