Discussion
Hey everyone I need some help. I finally figured out why my engine wont keep running. For some reason i'm only geting 8 volts to the sensors instead of 12 needed to open up the Cold Start Injector. I think it has to be a ground somewhere. I'm going over all of my wiring again and I noticed two wires in particular that were not hooked up at all.
On the Passenger Side there are two wires coming up by the Ignition Coil they are Solid Blue and a White with Black Stripe. I can't seem to find out where these things connect to. Anyone have any ideas? Also any grounds you think I may have missed to get the current back up to 12 volts? I can take some pictures of everything and put them on my site (i havent updated it forever)
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremo/mytvr.html
Any help would be awesome, thanks guys!
~Jeremy
On the Passenger Side there are two wires coming up by the Ignition Coil they are Solid Blue and a White with Black Stripe. I can't seem to find out where these things connect to. Anyone have any ideas? Also any grounds you think I may have missed to get the current back up to 12 volts? I can take some pictures of everything and put them on my site (i havent updated it forever)
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremo/mytvr.html
Any help would be awesome, thanks guys!
~Jeremy
Well i was going over my wiring diagrams and it seems in order for the Cold Start injector to work I need to have my Thermo Time Switch Connected to complete the circuit. Problem is I broke it last winter. I'm in the US so coming by one of these isnt exactly a walk in the park. Does anyone happen to have one?
~Jeremy
~Jeremy
), how about a push-button on the dash to earth the cold start injector while you crank the engine? Be a bit like holding the choke on a carb engine...That could work, but the problem is that i'm losing voltage somewhere because everything is running at 8 volts i believe. and i need to have a minimum of 11.5 volts to go to it.
Another thing is this. On the Fuel Accumulator there is a small screw on the backside, is this to allow ventilation? Mine is leaking and i believe that is not how it is supposed to work.
~jeremy
Another thing is this. On the Fuel Accumulator there is a small screw on the backside, is this to allow ventilation? Mine is leaking and i believe that is not how it is supposed to work.
~jeremy
Jeremy
8 volts is correct, it has a ballast resister.
This means that during normal running (key in ignition position) you should have 8 volts at the coil.
During start (key in start position) the ballast resister is by- passed allowing extra voltage to the coil. Sort of 12.5 volts minus how much the starter motor reduces it! Prob around 9-11 v.
Without looking at the diag I remember the blue wire is the balast resister!
A thermotime switch should not be too difficult to find in the US.
Looks like you have to have the exact one as the 280 one is a break switch, other Bosche ones send a ground. Around $75.00
If you do go the "push button" route make sure you get a starter type push button not a switch that could be left on, or accidently switched by a child etc etc.
I think a new thermotime switch is preferable.
8 volts is correct, it has a ballast resister.
This means that during normal running (key in ignition position) you should have 8 volts at the coil.
During start (key in start position) the ballast resister is by- passed allowing extra voltage to the coil. Sort of 12.5 volts minus how much the starter motor reduces it! Prob around 9-11 v.
Without looking at the diag I remember the blue wire is the balast resister!
A thermotime switch should not be too difficult to find in the US.
Looks like you have to have the exact one as the 280 one is a break switch, other Bosche ones send a ground. Around $75.00
If you do go the "push button" route make sure you get a starter type push button not a switch that could be left on, or accidently switched by a child etc etc.
I think a new thermotime switch is preferable.
I've just re read your post.
Before you attack the wiring, which may or may not be correct.
I would look at the Auxiallary Air device first. this has a lot to do with the car running before it heats up.
These things do get "coked up" and get stuck .
Cold it should be open, if you take off the pipe you should see a threequarter moon shape hole. Hot it should be closed.
Remove from car, clean with carb cleaner and test by holding over the gas cooker, as it heats up you can see the hole closing. It make take three of four cleanings before it starts to work.
The thermotime switch is for initial firing once you release the starter it no longer has any effect. So if your car starts, I would ignore the Thermo thingy for now.
Before you attack the wiring, which may or may not be correct.
I would look at the Auxiallary Air device first. this has a lot to do with the car running before it heats up.
These things do get "coked up" and get stuck .
Cold it should be open, if you take off the pipe you should see a threequarter moon shape hole. Hot it should be closed.
Remove from car, clean with carb cleaner and test by holding over the gas cooker, as it heats up you can see the hole closing. It make take three of four cleanings before it starts to work.
The thermotime switch is for initial firing once you release the starter it no longer has any effect. So if your car starts, I would ignore the Thermo thingy for now.
The car starts up fine how it is, it will run for about 10-15 seconds and then kill. The problem i'm noticing is the cold start injector does not open at all, But if I hotwire it to get exactly 12 volts, it sprays and is perfect, i'm just trying to figure out why it does not work at initial fireup. It's coming along however, I did find a thermo time switch that i'm going to order.
Have you been on this site www.ford-capri.fsnet.co.uk/whiterose/Injection2.htm
I've just been through the wiring on my wedge and the CSI certainly doesn't help once the engine is running. Because of the wiring on mine it was active all the time apart from when the starter was active (completely opposite to what it should be). Before I sorted the wiring the engine would die as soon as the CSI was plugged in.
Although as it didn't have a starting problem is does question the point of the CSI, although I did manage to lean the mixture off considerably.
Although as it didn't have a starting problem is does question the point of the CSI, although I did manage to lean the mixture off considerably.
Quote:"Another thing is this. On the Fuel Accumulator there is a small screw on the backside, is this to allow ventilation? Mine is leaking and i believe that is not how it is supposed to work".
Not sure if they are all the same but the only thing on the rear of my accumulator is a push fit for 1/4" tube, this is to vent air from the rear of the accumulator diaphragm or in the case of a leaky diaphragm fuel. A short lenght of tube should connect it back to the tank, if there is a spare 1/4" fitting near the top of the tank thats the one to connect it to.
Not sure if they are all the same but the only thing on the rear of my accumulator is a push fit for 1/4" tube, this is to vent air from the rear of the accumulator diaphragm or in the case of a leaky diaphragm fuel. A short lenght of tube should connect it back to the tank, if there is a spare 1/4" fitting near the top of the tank thats the one to connect it to.
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