Extra air valve and other questions
Discussion
Whilst I rumage through my spares, or before I buy one at over £100, does anyone have a spare one they could lend to elininate mine ?
Also Leigh what is the difference in the Jag / Rover one as you have both listed in the spares list ?
And finally a question for all those that have megasquirt'd / dma'd / omex'd their old flapper system, did you use any of the original air control systems or bin the lot, or convert to a stepper motor arrangement ?
On mine I intend to fit later hot wire injectors, (as I have a rail and injectors ready to bolt on
, so as to get rid of the power pack and associated wiring, anyone else done this ?
Also Leigh what is the difference in the Jag / Rover one as you have both listed in the spares list ?
And finally a question for all those that have megasquirt'd / dma'd / omex'd their old flapper system, did you use any of the original air control systems or bin the lot, or convert to a stepper motor arrangement ?
On mine I intend to fit later hot wire injectors, (as I have a rail and injectors ready to bolt on
, so as to get rid of the power pack and associated wiring, anyone else done this ?Hi Paul,
The Jag one has a slightly different, valve that's a bit more reliable, plus flows more air on cold.
they well bolt in the same place, and use the existing hoses.
you welcome to borrow both if you want, can lend you a temp sensor also if you want.
Do you want me to post or to meet you.
Leigh
The Jag one has a slightly different, valve that's a bit more reliable, plus flows more air on cold.
they well bolt in the same place, and use the existing hoses.
you welcome to borrow both if you want, can lend you a temp sensor also if you want.
Do you want me to post or to meet you.
Leigh
On mine I intend to fit later hot wire injectors, (as I have a rail and injectors ready to bolt on
, so as to get rid of the power pack and associated wiring, anyone else done this ?[/quote]
You may also need the hotwire type inlet manifold? as the injector seats are different if I remember correctly?
The EAV is a simple mechanical device which you can check by removing from the car then heating it up with a hot air gun and watching to see if the disk rotates smoothly. Mine stuck and I cleaned it with petrol/brake cleaner. Once dry I heated it up and observed the disk move properly. The other check is to connect 12 Volts to it's heater terminals and check that it generates some heat.
HTH
HTH
dwgriffith said:
On mine I intend to fit later hot wire injectors, (as I have a rail and injectors ready to bolt on , so as to get rid of the power pack and associated wiring, anyone else done this ?
You may also need the hotwire type inlet manifold? as the injector seats are different if I remember correctly? , so as to get rid of the power pack and associated wiring, anyone else done this ?
gsx600 said:
So it sitting attached to the manifold heats it up ? Or are you saying the wires heat it up, ? If so what is controlling the eav heater system ?
Both! Heat soaking from the engine warms it up and it is also accelerated by the element. The Thermotime switch controls the heating element. There's no CPU brain here its simple stuff that was acceptable in the eighties
leorest said:
Both! Heat soaking from the engine warms it up and it is also accelerated by the element. The Thermotime switch controls the heating element
Both is correct! EAV requires heat from manifold at 60/70 deg C and its heater coil to fully close. One heat source is insufficient. The TT switch controls the CSI not the EAV which derives power from FPR and is grounded at ECU. See:http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
honestjohntoo said:
leorest said:
Both! Heat soaking from the engine warms it up and it is also accelerated by the element. The Thermotime switch controls the heating element
Both is correct! EAV requires heat from manifold at 60/70 deg C and its heater coil to fully close. One heat source is insufficient. The TT switch controls the CSI not the EAV which derives power from FPR and is grounded at ECU. See:http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
BTW whats FPR?
So muy eav flapping around and not attached to the cylinder is possibly not helping, nor is the fact that I've left the thermotime sensor disconnected (as thought that was to do with the cold start injector - also disconnected )as well in an effort to try and get better running when hot ?
)as well in an effort to try and get better running when hot ?Gsx. With no heat conduction EAV cant fully close unless it gets to 60/70 C flapping about. Idle speed will be artificially raised which could be compensated for with idle speed adjuster. No difference to normal running. Thermotime switch operates cold start injector.
Leo. Fuel Pump Relay.
Leo. Fuel Pump Relay.
Hi Paul,
I converted my 400SE to Emerald. I've done away with the EAV altogether. I intended to fit a stepper motor, but after reading on here the problems they can cause, I decided against that. I have found that by setting the throttle butterfly slightly wider than usual, and shutting the idle adjustment screw right down, I get a nice steady idle using the ignition map to control it. The cold idle , although not as high as the old flapper system is ok and it warms up quickly so it's not a problem. I've also removed the overrun valve and all the pipe work connected to that, so the engine looks much less cluttered than the flapper system. HTH.
I converted my 400SE to Emerald. I've done away with the EAV altogether. I intended to fit a stepper motor, but after reading on here the problems they can cause, I decided against that. I have found that by setting the throttle butterfly slightly wider than usual, and shutting the idle adjustment screw right down, I get a nice steady idle using the ignition map to control it. The cold idle , although not as high as the old flapper system is ok and it warms up quickly so it's not a problem. I've also removed the overrun valve and all the pipe work connected to that, so the engine looks much less cluttered than the flapper system. HTH.
Lesliehedley said:
Hi Paul,
I converted my 400SE to Emerald. I've done away with the EAV altogether. I intended to fit a stepper motor, but after reading on here the problems they can cause, I decided against that. I have found that by setting the throttle butterfly slightly wider than usual, and shutting the idle adjustment screw right down, I get a nice steady idle using the ignition map to control it. The cold idle , although not as high as the old flapper system is ok and it warms up quickly so it's not a problem. I've also removed the overrun valve and all the pipe work connected to that, so the engine looks much less cluttered than the flapper system. HTH.
Now that sounds more like what I'm trying to get too, have any pictures of final install, did you get rid of injector pack or still running that or can emerald also cope with different injectors ? I think ms should be able to cope with my jag injectors withot the resistor pack or put my hot wire inj in ?I converted my 400SE to Emerald. I've done away with the EAV altogether. I intended to fit a stepper motor, but after reading on here the problems they can cause, I decided against that. I have found that by setting the throttle butterfly slightly wider than usual, and shutting the idle adjustment screw right down, I get a nice steady idle using the ignition map to control it. The cold idle , although not as high as the old flapper system is ok and it warms up quickly so it's not a problem. I've also removed the overrun valve and all the pipe work connected to that, so the engine looks much less cluttered than the flapper system. HTH.
I'm also hoping to bin the afm, injector pack, eav, overrun valve, cold start, thermotime thingie, cold start injector, and then onto the electrical thingies like dissy, coil to hopefully get too a more reliable and tidier system
Where did you end up putting your air temp sensor, lambda, and 32-1 wheel to get the emerald to run ?
'Now that sounds more like what I'm trying to get too, have any pictures of final install, did you get rid of injector pack or still running that or can emerald also cope with different injectors ? I think ms should be able to cope with my jag injectors withot the resistor pack or put my hot wire inj in ?'
Emerald say their system is for high impedance injectors, so you'll still need the resistor pack. I found the Rover/TVR resistor pack didn't give quite the right impedance for the ECU, so I bought some resistors from Emerald, put them in a box and wired them in place of the old resistor pack.
'I'm also hoping to bin the afm, injector pack, eav, overrun valve, cold start, thermotime thingie, cold start injector, and then onto the electrical thingies like dissy, coil to hopefully get too a more reliable and tidier system'
I removed the AFM, EAV and overrun valve. I never used the cold start injector anyway. I use the distributor to deliver the high tension spark and a 36-1 crank sensor to drive the ECU.
'Where did you end up putting your air temp sensor'
My air temperature sensor is in the side of the plenum. I was told it was best to put it as close to the engine inlet as possible, although I've also been told that the heat soak from the plenum will give an artifically high reading.
'lambda, and 32-1 wheel to get the emerald to run ?'
I don't have a lambda sensor at the minute. I have the boss in place but no sensor yet. The crank sensor is a John Eales 36-1 wheel fitted to the back of the crank pulley. HTH.
Emerald say their system is for high impedance injectors, so you'll still need the resistor pack. I found the Rover/TVR resistor pack didn't give quite the right impedance for the ECU, so I bought some resistors from Emerald, put them in a box and wired them in place of the old resistor pack.
'I'm also hoping to bin the afm, injector pack, eav, overrun valve, cold start, thermotime thingie, cold start injector, and then onto the electrical thingies like dissy, coil to hopefully get too a more reliable and tidier system'
I removed the AFM, EAV and overrun valve. I never used the cold start injector anyway. I use the distributor to deliver the high tension spark and a 36-1 crank sensor to drive the ECU.
'Where did you end up putting your air temp sensor'
My air temperature sensor is in the side of the plenum. I was told it was best to put it as close to the engine inlet as possible, although I've also been told that the heat soak from the plenum will give an artifically high reading.
'lambda, and 32-1 wheel to get the emerald to run ?'
I don't have a lambda sensor at the minute. I have the boss in place but no sensor yet. The crank sensor is a John Eales 36-1 wheel fitted to the back of the crank pulley. HTH.
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