Which clutch master cylinder ?
Which clutch master cylinder ?
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Discussion

dickyoldchap

Original Poster:

40 posts

228 months

Sunday 11th November 2007
quotequote all

Hi, where does the clutch master cylinder come from ? it looks like something from a Dolomite I used to have. car is E reg 390SE.
cheers, Richard.

shpub

8,507 posts

302 months

Sunday 11th November 2007
quotequote all
Over the years many cars have been quoted as replacements but as for the accuracy, not totally convinced.

The body of the cylinder is a standard ish Girling cylinder and has been used on a large number of cars.
That's the easy part...

The internal bore is either 0.65, 0.7 or in some cases 0.75 inches.
The pipe fitting may well be a TVR specific - they have used JIC-4 threaded connectors which are not exactly common.
The push rod also varied a bit.

The choice is either:

get one from a TVR source - which will be a straight replacement with less agro.

or

get a generic one with the correct bore size and be prepared to change the master-slave pipe and swap the push rod over.

.Woody

1,790 posts

257 months

Sunday 11th November 2007
quotequote all
I got mine from TVR Carparts direct swap over, usually I heard the pushrod needs to come off your old one as the length is never right, but with TVR car parts it was spot on at £51.75+vat. I initially ordered one from Merlin, but the pipe fitting was a different size, so couldnt be used unless I changed the pipe size, the piston size is 0.7". If you need help in fitting it Ive got 3 continuing dummy guides in here from a couple of months back!

dickyoldchap

Original Poster:

40 posts

228 months

Sunday 11th November 2007
quotequote all
Am hoping to get a repair kit rather than buying the whole thing. has only done 40k, so the bore should be ok.

Will take the master cylinder off and take it to local auto-factor for checking

Wedg1e

27,038 posts

295 months

Monday 12th November 2007
quotequote all
dickyoldchap said:
Am hoping to get a repair kit rather than buying the whole thing. has only done 40k, so the bore should be ok.

Will take the master cylinder off and take it to local auto-factor for checking
Wouldn't count on it. TVR in their finite wisdom had the pushrod working at a funny angle that tends to push the piston off-centre and wears the bore oval. You can change the seals, it'll work for... oh, days, I daresay, then it'll leak again.
My car (E reg 390SE) m/cyl is marked with the casting number 64676310 and '70' which means it's a 0.7" bore. Cross-ref in the Girling catalogue suggests it was also used on the Lotus Cortina and some Lotus Esprits.
Seal kit (SP2102) was about a fiver last time I bought one. But before you do, pull the piston, whip the seals off it and drop the piston back in. Once it's about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in you may see vertical ovality of the bore.

DerbyCountyMark

64 posts

232 months

Monday 12th November 2007
quotequote all
I've just replaced mine, and went through just the same path as the one your are describing. I started by replacing the rubbers only for fluid to dribble out of the revamped cylinder almost as soon as I put it back in the car. I also found that the cylinder in the car had a different thread to the one sourced from TVR car parts, but that they were able to supply a replacement nut. In summary, the money spent on the kit was a complete waste...

.Woody

1,790 posts

257 months

Monday 12th November 2007
quotequote all
DerbyCountyMark said:
I also found that the cylinder in the car had a different thread to the one sourced from TVR car parts,
Interesting?
Mine was from them and it was a straight swap.

tempus

674 posts

231 months

Monday 12th November 2007
quotequote all
Go to Past Parts,they re-bore and sleeve old unit (with stainless steel)fit and forget.Tempus

DerbyCountyMark

64 posts

232 months

Tuesday 13th November 2007
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I suspect that the cylinder which was in my car was a bodge from way back when, and that the replacement part was as it should be.