Discussion
Should the diff be offset.
As while I had the body off, I thought I'd mesure the rear wheel distance, as one wheel sticks out more than the other. and the spacing from the disk to hub seems to vary by aprox 10mm.
I'll need to make sure everything is stright and re-messure.
but just I remember someone saying they are offset.
I could not see any diff spacers anywhere. I remember there being some on the 400.
Thanks
Leigh
As while I had the body off, I thought I'd mesure the rear wheel distance, as one wheel sticks out more than the other. and the spacing from the disk to hub seems to vary by aprox 10mm.
I'll need to make sure everything is stright and re-messure.
but just I remember someone saying they are offset.
I could not see any diff spacers anywhere. I remember there being some on the 400.
Thanks
Leigh
Maybe it has been set up that way to make it go around corners better ?
As when I used to grass track rack you would space out the the left side for wider track on the drive wheel to go round a clockwise circuit, not that sure it made much difference personally but it was the recommended thing to do, as well as bungie straps on the gear lever to keep it in gear
As when I used to grass track rack you would space out the the left side for wider track on the drive wheel to go round a clockwise circuit, not that sure it made much difference personally but it was the recommended thing to do, as well as bungie straps on the gear lever to keep it in gear
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
I could not see any diff spacers anywhere. I remember there being some on the 400.
This is usually one of those things that makes TVRs fun:-half a dozen shims on either side of the diff that roll all over the floor and you've no idea which side they came off. Sounds like someone has lazily reassembled your car.
gsx600 said:
Maybe it has been set up that way to make it go around corners better ?
As when I used to grass track rack you would space out the the left side for wider track on the drive wheel to go round a clockwise circuit, not that sure it made much difference personally but it was the recommended thing to do, as well as bungie straps on the gear lever to keep it in gear
You are refering to what is called : Stagger..As when I used to grass track rack you would space out the the left side for wider track on the drive wheel to go round a clockwise circuit, not that sure it made much difference personally but it was the recommended thing to do, as well as bungie straps on the gear lever to keep it in gear
It's not the diff that's offset..
The wheelbase on one side is actually shorter than on the other .. so it naturally wants to turn in that direction (the short side)..
A diff offset would be more to do with :
Centre of gravity / Weight distribution and even torque transfer - possibly put the power down better..
I had to take the shorter side off to get access to another part of the chassis, and it did have a few shims.
But one wheel seems to stick out 10mm more than the other. this seems way to much for a mesuring error. or shim error.
I want to put wider rubber on, and its if one side is sticking out, as the rules say 100% of the wheel must be covered by an arch. bla de bla.
But one wheel seems to stick out 10mm more than the other. this seems way to much for a mesuring error. or shim error.
I want to put wider rubber on, and its if one side is sticking out, as the rules say 100% of the wheel must be covered by an arch. bla de bla.
Leigh
Complicated area his one..
If you start removing the shims on the drive shaft you change the camber of the wheel as it's the upper link on the rear suspension (removed would give negative camber) and there is adjustment on the lower suspension arm but careful measurement of lenghts, and cambers of both sides would be needed before and after..
You could end up with an evil handling beast if you just start changing things..
Someone like RT or Jules would be the best people to talk with or Wedgeman..
Complicated area his one..
If you start removing the shims on the drive shaft you change the camber of the wheel as it's the upper link on the rear suspension (removed would give negative camber) and there is adjustment on the lower suspension arm but careful measurement of lenghts, and cambers of both sides would be needed before and after..
You could end up with an evil handling beast if you just start changing things..
Someone like RT or Jules would be the best people to talk with or Wedgeman..
Yes - a good idea ..
I had a friend who had a 400SE and that always rubbered the tyre on one side .. the wheel was closer to the wheel arch on one side - I had kind of assumed that it was probably a production variance (or cock up) with set-up at the factory..
I'm sure someone who does a lot of set-up will know a lot more than us amateurs.
I had a friend who had a 400SE and that always rubbered the tyre on one side .. the wheel was closer to the wheel arch on one side - I had kind of assumed that it was probably a production variance (or cock up) with set-up at the factory..
I'm sure someone who does a lot of set-up will know a lot more than us amateurs.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
Well I'm am going to try and get it done by an expert. most prob joo's
but 10mm seemed a lot, and do remember somthing about the shafts are different lengths.
but will leave that area to the experts.
10mm is a lot but just about possible...but 10mm seemed a lot, and do remember somthing about the shafts are different lengths.
but will leave that area to the experts.
I had that problem once - it turned out that I'd fractured the diff carrier twice, lol
Ahem, assuming you know how you measured from a reference (if racer no body so you should be fine). Seems that wedge bodies can have all sorts of dimensions, so chassis and alignment fine, but it looks funny. And agree with you that if you can spot differences with the eye it could/should be very wrong - exception wedge bodies!
Rob
Rob
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