Fibre optic dash lighting
Discussion
I'm just putting the dash back in after replacing some wiring, and thought I'd fix the fibre optic lighting, which has not worked since I bought the car. I thought the problem was easily solved when I found the bulb had blown. I've put a new bulb in but there's still no light at the switch end. The bulb I used has the same fitting but a smaller glass bit. Will this make a diference? If not does anyone have any clues to the lack of light?
Thanks
Don (1988 350i)
Thanks
Don (1988 350i)
leorest said:
This job is on my "one of these days" list. So I'm expecting hell to freeze over before I get round to it 
It wasn't a particularly good/bright design to begin with. I think the best solution is to fit ultra miniature leds to the switches and do away with the aging fibers.
Agreed...but where can we get them? It wasn't a particularly good/bright design to begin with. I think the best solution is to fit ultra miniature leds to the switches and do away with the aging fibers.
The light pod thingy I believe is a range rover part - I always reckoned it was s
te - no light at all.
I thought of getting one of those 12v high brightness white (or green) 24 LED clusters, and shoving it up the light pod instead of the dodgy 'burn your car out' 12v bulbs. Araldite it in place job should be a good un.
Check to see if the fibre optic leads are all still attached though, also a good clean of the switchgear 'light windows' probably would go amiss either.
MikeyB
te - no light at all.I thought of getting one of those 12v high brightness white (or green) 24 LED clusters, and shoving it up the light pod instead of the dodgy 'burn your car out' 12v bulbs. Araldite it in place job should be a good un.
Check to see if the fibre optic leads are all still attached though, also a good clean of the switchgear 'light windows' probably would go amiss either.
MikeyB
GV said:
leorest said:
It wasn't a particularly good/bright design to begin with. I think the best solution is to fit ultra miniature leds to the switches and do away with the aging fibers.
Agreed...but where can we get them?I can see 2mm dia leds from RS, and 1.8mm ones. The 2mm ones can take some filing down if necessary - so what's the diameter of the end of the fibers?
I was looking at my dead light source last weekend but didn't think to measure one of the fiber leads and cover. They are thin, I'd guess closer to 1.5mm. Any idea how bright a LED you would need?
For those new to LEDs (like me) this site might be helpful...
http://www.theledlight.com/ledcircuits.html
For those new to LEDs (like me) this site might be helpful...
http://www.theledlight.com/ledcircuits.html
I had the same problem. I found the metalised coating in the reflector had flaked off. I cannibalised an old torch and wired up some leds but still no good. I then put the fault down to the fibre optic leads themselves.
Next I chucked the fibre optic set up away. I got some leds and soldered on some flying leads. They fitted snugly into the recess in the switch immediately behind the lit panel. At the switch end I wired the lead through the hole in the shroud left by the fibre optic cable. This provided some strain relief and helped keep the led in place. The other end of the flying lead was connected into the existing supply for the fibre optic set-up.
A couple of hours work and I now have illuminated switches! Leds were bought from Maplins. Ideally you want 12v leds but 5v leds can be used but you need a resistor in series. I had to buy 5v leds and nearly wired a resistor in for each led before realising that only one was needed provided you put it into the original power lead for the fibre optic set up
Hope this makes sense. I'd put some pictures up but I'm buggered if I'm going to dismantle it again!
Next I chucked the fibre optic set up away. I got some leds and soldered on some flying leads. They fitted snugly into the recess in the switch immediately behind the lit panel. At the switch end I wired the lead through the hole in the shroud left by the fibre optic cable. This provided some strain relief and helped keep the led in place. The other end of the flying lead was connected into the existing supply for the fibre optic set-up.
A couple of hours work and I now have illuminated switches! Leds were bought from Maplins. Ideally you want 12v leds but 5v leds can be used but you need a resistor in series. I had to buy 5v leds and nearly wired a resistor in for each led before realising that only one was needed provided you put it into the original power lead for the fibre optic set up
Hope this makes sense. I'd put some pictures up but I'm buggered if I'm going to dismantle it again!
Thanks very much for the comments. I get the impression I may be wasting my time with the fibre optic route, as it's not that good even when it does work. LEDs are the way forward for a modern hi-tech supercar like the Wedge. I'm off to Maplins.
(I suppose you could say the fibre optics did't get a 'glowing' report) - I'll get my coat.
Thanks. Don.
(I suppose you could say the fibre optics did't get a 'glowing' report) - I'll get my coat.
Thanks. Don.
Just found this on Maplins site for 12v LEDs - 3mm sounds about right? http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35738...
So - is it necessary to find a supply which is not on the dimmer? I'm not sufficiently electronically inclined to be sure of the implications there!
So - is it necessary to find a supply which is not on the dimmer? I'm not sufficiently electronically inclined to be sure of the implications there!
DerbyCountyMark said:
Just found this on Maplins site for 12v LEDs - 3mm sounds about right? http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35738...
So - is it necessary to find a supply which is not on the dimmer? I'm not sufficiently electronically inclined to be sure of the implications there!
It won't damage the LED being run at less than 12V, though the dimming might not work linearly. Suck it and see...So - is it necessary to find a supply which is not on the dimmer? I'm not sufficiently electronically inclined to be sure of the implications there!
Gerry Attrick said:
Yes, I'd looked at these. I'm not sure about the technicalities, and was thinking of wiring them in ahead of the resistor / dimmer. The fibre optics on mine are thinner, and so would need the switch reaming out in some manner.
Has anyone got any spare switches to develop a prototype?
The feed to the dimmer switch is 12v constant.Has anyone got any spare switches to develop a prototype?
Also if you use a voltage regulator, your get a steady 5v regardless of what dim setting is used, so that way you can have dim the std bulbs but not the LED's
Job done. I bought two packets of four "Micro LEDs" from Maplins for about a fiver each. On my 350i, once the dash is removed, remove the multiplug from each of the switches. For some reason, they were very stiff on mine, and a fair degree of brute force was required. The existing fibre optic lead is held in place by a white plastic collar around the switch body. This can be pulled off the back of the switch, allowing the switch itself to be pulled out of the dash to the front. The switches are held in place by some flexible (???) plastic built in to the top and bottom. On mine, previous owners had obviously had them out, the flexible bit had broken, and some of the switches were held in with insulating tape.
There is no real need to remove the switches as the new LEDs are fitted to the collar. I removed them to take the opportunity to clean up the contacts.
The fibre optic can be pulled out of the white collar leaving a small hole about 1 mm dia. The LEDs are about 5 mm dia, but each of the trailing leads are less than 1 mm. I threaded one of the leads through the hole in the collar, allowing the other lead to pass outside the hole. Both were taped together on the other side to hold them firmly. Because the leads are relatively stiff, and the hole is angled to the correct position, the LED shines into the cavity in the same way as the previous fibre optic.
The collar & LED and multiplug are then reassembled.
I unsoldered the existing leads from the fibre optic light source at the other multiplug; joined common leads from all the new LEDs and resoldered these to the multiplug.
"And there was light!"
The dimmer rheostat doesn't appear to have any effect but, that doesn't bother me.
There is no real need to remove the switches as the new LEDs are fitted to the collar. I removed them to take the opportunity to clean up the contacts.
The fibre optic can be pulled out of the white collar leaving a small hole about 1 mm dia. The LEDs are about 5 mm dia, but each of the trailing leads are less than 1 mm. I threaded one of the leads through the hole in the collar, allowing the other lead to pass outside the hole. Both were taped together on the other side to hold them firmly. Because the leads are relatively stiff, and the hole is angled to the correct position, the LED shines into the cavity in the same way as the previous fibre optic.
The collar & LED and multiplug are then reassembled.
I unsoldered the existing leads from the fibre optic light source at the other multiplug; joined common leads from all the new LEDs and resoldered these to the multiplug.
"And there was light!"
The dimmer rheostat doesn't appear to have any effect but, that doesn't bother me.
[quote=Gerry Attrick]Job done. I bought two packets of four "Micro LEDs" from Maplins for about a fiver each. On my 350i, once the dash is removed, remove the multiplug from each of the switches. For some reason, they were very stiff on mine, and a fair degree of brute force was required. The existing fibre optic lead is held in place by a white plastic collar around the switch body. This can be pulled off the back of the switch, allowing the switch itself to be pulled out of the dash to the front. The switches are held in place by some flexible (???) plastic built in to the top and bottom. On mine, previous owners had obviously had them out, the flexible bit had broken, and some of the switches were held in with insulating tape.
There is no real need to remove the switches as the new LEDs are fitted to the collar. I removed them to take the opportunity to clean up the contacts.
The fibre optic can be pulled out of the white collar leaving a small hole about 1 mm dia. The LEDs are about 5 mm dia, but each of the trailing leads are less than 1 mm. I threaded one of the leads through the hole in the collar, allowing the other lead to pass outside the hole. Both were taped together on the other side to hold them firmly. Because the leads are relatively stiff, and the hole is angled to the correct position, the LED shines into the cavity in the same way as the previous fibre optic.
The collar & LED and multiplug are then reassembled.
I unsoldered the existing leads from the fibre optic light source at the other multiplug; joined common leads from all the new LEDs and resoldered these to the multiplug.
"And there was light!"
The dimmer rheostat doesn't appear to have any effect but, that doesn't bother me.
Well done - another piece of pioneering wedge work done...
There is no real need to remove the switches as the new LEDs are fitted to the collar. I removed them to take the opportunity to clean up the contacts.
The fibre optic can be pulled out of the white collar leaving a small hole about 1 mm dia. The LEDs are about 5 mm dia, but each of the trailing leads are less than 1 mm. I threaded one of the leads through the hole in the collar, allowing the other lead to pass outside the hole. Both were taped together on the other side to hold them firmly. Because the leads are relatively stiff, and the hole is angled to the correct position, the LED shines into the cavity in the same way as the previous fibre optic.
The collar & LED and multiplug are then reassembled.
I unsoldered the existing leads from the fibre optic light source at the other multiplug; joined common leads from all the new LEDs and resoldered these to the multiplug.
"And there was light!"
The dimmer rheostat doesn't appear to have any effect but, that doesn't bother me.
Well done - another piece of pioneering wedge work done...
hi, ive just fitted a 6 LED under cabinate light in the original fibre optic housing, works a lot better than the crap original bulb supposed to be 50 times brighter than a 5w bulb or some thing, just need to solder a couple of wires on and silicon sealant it in.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
worth fitting some LEDs instead of the normal dash bulbs too.
regards
jon.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
worth fitting some LEDs instead of the normal dash bulbs too.
regards
jon.
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