Discussion
What set up have you got on the racer Leigh? Cirk's bonnet scoop is not a chav extra; it is functional and was designed for his specific car. A different car should have a design suitable for that car not copied from another. TVRs are very easy to mod being fibreglass - look at the number of different Wedge bonnets from TVR. Why do you want a scoop? Cooling? Cold air? Engine clearance?
Just need it for engine Clearance, so wanted one that did not look to chav'y
The car has a light weight one piece front end, that was designed for a V6 or 2.0 turbo. but with the Rv8 in there and the large plemum, there's not enough clearance.
If you look at the later pic's on the following thread you see the problem.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
The car has a light weight one piece front end, that was designed for a V6 or 2.0 turbo. but with the Rv8 in there and the large plemum, there's not enough clearance.
If you look at the later pic's on the following thread you see the problem.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Why is the plenum that high? 
You need a bonnet bulge the other way round to Cirks who has carbs. Ever seen the original Cannonball run with David Carradine and Sylvester Stallone? Either mould it into the bonnet or to reduce the size attach the bulge to the engine, known as a SHAKER :-) viz: http://www.musclecardrive.com/images/specs_pics/19...
Cheers, Jonathan

You need a bonnet bulge the other way round to Cirks who has carbs. Ever seen the original Cannonball run with David Carradine and Sylvester Stallone? Either mould it into the bonnet or to reduce the size attach the bulge to the engine, known as a SHAKER :-) viz: http://www.musclecardrive.com/images/specs_pics/19...
Cheers, Jonathan
It's not as high as it looks in that pic, due to camera angle.
I know the thread is a bit long, but if you read it your find I have a Series 1.5 Chassis that is not wide enough to fix a Rv8 with down manifolds.
Hence the use of Grif / Chim headers that run forward over the chassis rails.
so the engine is sitting about 1" higher than it would in a 350 etc.
So it was the only easy option. without doing major chassis and body mods.
or scrapping most of the car. and taking all the race parts off and fitting to a 350 chassie and body.
due to time limits it would be easier to bond in an existing scoop than make one from scrach.
Not sure if it would make much differance what way it was facing. in which case I would put it the way it looked better.
Leigh
I know the thread is a bit long, but if you read it your find I have a Series 1.5 Chassis that is not wide enough to fix a Rv8 with down manifolds.
Hence the use of Grif / Chim headers that run forward over the chassis rails.
so the engine is sitting about 1" higher than it would in a 350 etc.
So it was the only easy option. without doing major chassis and body mods.
or scrapping most of the car. and taking all the race parts off and fitting to a 350 chassie and body.
due to time limits it would be easier to bond in an existing scoop than make one from scrach.
Not sure if it would make much differance what way it was facing. in which case I would put it the way it looked better.
Leigh
At 1" higher for the engine location I can understand your logic now. A rear facing (as per 350i S2 onwards wedges) would be much better since it would allow the hot air in the engine bay to escape; I would make it a bit bigger than the min since cooling in these cars is not over generous anyway. You can buy ready made scoops etc but they're never quite right, ( I think that this could be modified to fit if you want to spend that sort of money - http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/EnlargedIma...http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDeta... ) I would buy a suitably shaped plastic plant pot or washing up bowl etc, cover it in silver foil, cut a hole in the bonnet, attach the mould to the bonnet and glass away.
Good luck, Jonathan
Good luck, Jonathan
JR said:
Can you bond fibreglass to polystyrene? You may have to wrap it in kitchen foil.
That's what I meant by do as you suggested, i.e. wrap in kitchen foil or clingfilm. else the gel coat will either stick or melt the poly.poly is good to shape. may have to use a layer of p38 also to smooth it out a bit.
it's also good for complex molds that can't be removed as you can just melt the poly after the GRP has gone hard.
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