Considering a wedge
Discussion
Hi,
I've always liked the wedges since I first saw them in the 80's, and now I'm in a position to buy one (I think).
So, some questions:
Can I get a decent one for £3K - £4K?
Which one would my budget stretch to? 350i? 390i? Which one is best?
Finally, are they decent motors (I'd only use it as a toy) or are they money pits?
Thanks.
I've always liked the wedges since I first saw them in the 80's, and now I'm in a position to buy one (I think).
So, some questions:
Can I get a decent one for £3K - £4K?
Which one would my budget stretch to? 350i? 390i? Which one is best?
Finally, are they decent motors (I'd only use it as a toy) or are they money pits?
Thanks.
Hi, can't answer all your questions. Prices and condition vary greatly. I paid 1700 for a 350i in vgc a year ago (some 000s spent on it in last 3-4 years too).
So far, she's cost a decent service, some leads and a battery. Nothing compared to the pleaseure.
I realise I was lucky though.
As to models, I suggest trying them out, maybe going to a TVRCC meeting.
Good hunting.
So far, she's cost a decent service, some leads and a battery. Nothing compared to the pleaseure.
I realise I was lucky though.
As to models, I suggest trying them out, maybe going to a TVRCC meeting.
Good hunting.
You'll get a decent 350i for 3-4k. 390SEs, well theyre worth millions - especially mine
390SEs go for about 4500 to 6000 for a really good one. SEACs go for loadsamoney.
I'd buy a good 350i in preference to a dodgy 390SE. Its really important to buy on condition, as a nasty one thats been got at by idiots will spend most of its time on the recovery truck. A good'un thats been looked after will be a total joy.
Its also worth taking an experienced wedger along if possible, as they'll be properly calibrated in terms of what a decent wedge should look like. This is especically important if you're new to TVRs - it will be totally different to any tintop you've ever driven!!
390SEs go for about 4500 to 6000 for a really good one. SEACs go for loadsamoney.
I'd buy a good 350i in preference to a dodgy 390SE. Its really important to buy on condition, as a nasty one thats been got at by idiots will spend most of its time on the recovery truck. A good'un thats been looked after will be a total joy.
Its also worth taking an experienced wedger along if possible, as they'll be properly calibrated in terms of what a decent wedge should look like. This is especically important if you're new to TVRs - it will be totally different to any tintop you've ever driven!!
Edited by ed_crouch on Thursday 1st October 21:48
Hi
If you want to drive round with a big Grin on your face, Yes buy one.
Look and try a few before you buy.
Are they going to cost lots to keep going, well you get to know petrol stations and tyre places.
Costs, mine not a lot for the first year or two, but we dont talk about this year.
But am I going to keep driving a wedge? yes, Well try one, have fun, see people turn round with an open mouth of what the F is that, my only problem, worry is why do people put big speakers in them, when you only have to turn the key and listen!
Have fun
If you want to drive round with a big Grin on your face, Yes buy one.
Look and try a few before you buy.
Are they going to cost lots to keep going, well you get to know petrol stations and tyre places.
Costs, mine not a lot for the first year or two, but we dont talk about this year.
But am I going to keep driving a wedge? yes, Well try one, have fun, see people turn round with an open mouth of what the F is that, my only problem, worry is why do people put big speakers in them, when you only have to turn the key and listen!
Have fun
ed_crouch said:
You'll get a decent 350i for 3-4k. 390SEs, well theyre worth millions - especially mine
390SEs go for about 4500 to 6000 for a really good one. SEACs go for loadsamoney.
I'd buy a good 350i in preference to a dodgy 390SE. Its really important to buy on condition, as a nasty one thats been got at by idiots will spend most of its time on the recovery truck. A good'un thats been looked after will be a total joy.
Its also worth taking an experienced wedger along if possible, as they'll be properly calibrated in terms of what a decent wedge should look like. This is especically important if you're new to TVRs - it will be totally different to any tintop you've ever driven!!
Hmmm, if I was offered 4.5 large for my 390 I'd be snapping arms off.390SEs go for about 4500 to 6000 for a really good one. SEACs go for loadsamoney.
I'd buy a good 350i in preference to a dodgy 390SE. Its really important to buy on condition, as a nasty one thats been got at by idiots will spend most of its time on the recovery truck. A good'un thats been looked after will be a total joy.
Its also worth taking an experienced wedger along if possible, as they'll be properly calibrated in terms of what a decent wedge should look like. This is especically important if you're new to TVRs - it will be totally different to any tintop you've ever driven!!
Edited by ed_crouch on Thursday 1st October 21:48
There's no such thing as a dodgy 390SE ( and no such thing as a 390i!) ; as long as the engine runs it's worth the pain - ultimately the rest of the car is a 350i so they suffer from the same ailments.
Thanks for all the replies/info 
Is there much difference in power/speed between the 3.5 and 3.9 in a TVR? I have owned both these engines before, but in Land Rovers! (plus a 4.2)
Insurance: I'm in my mid 40's, clean licence, no claims ever, IAM, live in a very low crime rate rural area and the car would be locked away. Any ideas how much they would charge me?
Is there much difference in power/speed between the 3.5 and 3.9 in a TVR? I have owned both these engines before, but in Land Rovers! (plus a 4.2)
Insurance: I'm in my mid 40's, clean licence, no claims ever, IAM, live in a very low crime rate rural area and the car would be locked away. Any ideas how much they would charge me?
The TVR 3.9 engine will have 30-60bhp extra over a TVR 3.5, for engines in similar (good) condition, and maybe another 30-50lbs of torque...real world figures.
Your insurance is likely to cost less than £200 a year for comprehensive if arranged through a classic car insurer. Mileage normally limited to 3 or 5,000 a year. A bargain !
Your insurance is likely to cost less than £200 a year for comprehensive if arranged through a classic car insurer. Mileage normally limited to 3 or 5,000 a year. A bargain !
You need to buy on condition. Depending on what you can do own your own or can afford to spend will determine how good your car will be once you decide to start driving.
My priority would be to check the chassis first, the engine, then the running gear (gearbox & drive shafts) Electrics, Hood & Interior, Bodywork. When you look at each element they'll be things to look out for.
You need to bear in mind that no 2 cars will drive or look the same and money is not an indication on how good or bad the car really is.
My priority would be to check the chassis first, the engine, then the running gear (gearbox & drive shafts) Electrics, Hood & Interior, Bodywork. When you look at each element they'll be things to look out for.
You need to bear in mind that no 2 cars will drive or look the same and money is not an indication on how good or bad the car really is.
My advice is that condition can only be determined by a very thorough examination. Even if it looks good or meets your expectation you will probably require access to good car engineering skills. I stress engineering rather than mechanical. During my rebuild, I am finding that apart from the mistakes of previous owners, even TVR did not build the cars to a high standard - mainly the car parts bin approach, down to mundane parts like pipes and heaters, also the chassis is not made of high quality tubes and is lacking in design especially in its working with the suspension.
Still with good engineering expertise, either yourself, friends or a well respected firm, the wedge is a car that you will love as a driving experience.
Still with good engineering expertise, either yourself, friends or a well respected firm, the wedge is a car that you will love as a driving experience.
Welcome to the dark side.
I've had my wedge (350i) for over 3 years now, it's an '88 with PAS.
So far it's had new springs (£120) all round (cos I'm a pie eater), I've replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets (£15 plus 10 hours of my labour), the front ARB bushes (with Poly about £40) Oil pressure relief valve (£5), Ignition components (Rotor arm, dizzy cap and leads total around £40), a front wheel bearing (£20), 2 track rod ends (£15) and I replaced the steering column bulkhead bush (£13 from RS).
Other than that it's just been regular servicing.
When you go and look at them you've got to check the chassis, then check the chassis, then check the chassis. Don't let the owner fire it up before you get under it as the sound of that V8 WILL seduce you.
Usual problem areas on the chassis are the outriggers (behind the sills) especially just behind the front wheels. Don't just check the bit you can see, get the owner to jack the car up and take the front wheels off. Then check down the inside of the sill with a torch.
Got to admit I have a hankering for [Clarkson] more power [/Clarkson], but the noise and grin factor from a V8 Wedge are pretty hard to beat.
PS for the first three years I paid £158 for insureance (Hagerty) and this year it came down to £103. (42 YO , 2nd car, car is garaged, 3K miles pa, breakdown and European cover included)
I think that Wedges are just reaching that plateau in prices now is a good time to buy.
I've had my wedge (350i) for over 3 years now, it's an '88 with PAS.
So far it's had new springs (£120) all round (cos I'm a pie eater), I've replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets (£15 plus 10 hours of my labour), the front ARB bushes (with Poly about £40) Oil pressure relief valve (£5), Ignition components (Rotor arm, dizzy cap and leads total around £40), a front wheel bearing (£20), 2 track rod ends (£15) and I replaced the steering column bulkhead bush (£13 from RS).
Other than that it's just been regular servicing.
When you go and look at them you've got to check the chassis, then check the chassis, then check the chassis. Don't let the owner fire it up before you get under it as the sound of that V8 WILL seduce you.
Usual problem areas on the chassis are the outriggers (behind the sills) especially just behind the front wheels. Don't just check the bit you can see, get the owner to jack the car up and take the front wheels off. Then check down the inside of the sill with a torch.
Got to admit I have a hankering for [Clarkson] more power [/Clarkson], but the noise and grin factor from a V8 Wedge are pretty hard to beat.
PS for the first three years I paid £158 for insureance (Hagerty) and this year it came down to £103. (42 YO , 2nd car, car is garaged, 3K miles pa, breakdown and European cover included)
I think that Wedges are just reaching that plateau in prices now is a good time to buy.
Hmmm, if I was offered 4.5 large for my 390 I'd be snapping arms off.
You might not get offered it, but its a reasonable asking price. and from the buyers perspective you should be prepared to pay that much for the right car...
It is depressing how little theyre worth at the moment though. I think there'll be 2 sorts of wedges in the future - the bottom end of the price range with serious problems that get bought by chavs and wrecked, and then the better cars that get looked after by enthusiasts and last. The first category will be worth less and less and will taint the reputation of the marque, and the latter half will appreciate and become classics once most of the dross is gone.
You heard it here first!!
You might not get offered it, but its a reasonable asking price. and from the buyers perspective you should be prepared to pay that much for the right car...
It is depressing how little theyre worth at the moment though. I think there'll be 2 sorts of wedges in the future - the bottom end of the price range with serious problems that get bought by chavs and wrecked, and then the better cars that get looked after by enthusiasts and last. The first category will be worth less and less and will taint the reputation of the marque, and the latter half will appreciate and become classics once most of the dross is gone.
You heard it here first!!
got 6k for my 390 2 yrs ago and it wasnt a minter but was engine and chassis sound cant see that same car selling for less then 4k now still got to be worth 5k even now. e781 xkj if any ones got it would be interested to know where it ended up.
do miss it but replaced with a lotus elise 2 different beasts doesent sound or have the same road prescence as the wedge but goes round corners like you would not belive.
do agree that the wedge is one of the best value sports cars out there.
do miss it but replaced with a lotus elise 2 different beasts doesent sound or have the same road prescence as the wedge but goes round corners like you would not belive.
do agree that the wedge is one of the best value sports cars out there.
Henry Harris said:
My advice is that condition can only be determined by a very thorough examination. Even if it looks good or meets your expectation you will probably require access to good car engineering skills. I stress engineering rather than mechanical. During my rebuild, I am finding that apart from the mistakes of previous owners, even TVR did not build the cars to a high standard - mainly the car parts bin approach, down to mundane parts like pipes and heaters, also the chassis is not made of high quality tubes and is lacking in design especially in its working with the suspension.
Still with good engineering expertise, either yourself, friends or a well respected firm, the wedge is a car that you will love as a driving experience.
You're stepping into a different realm though Henry; if we all took that approach we'd probably never buy any car as they're all compromised to some degree - certainly anything built in a British factory that didn't have automation (and plenty from those that did), or that's vaguely kit-car-ish.Still with good engineering expertise, either yourself, friends or a well respected firm, the wedge is a car that you will love as a driving experience.
One of the guys I work with has had 4 project cars in the time I've known him, he finally got sick of the typical Brit rot-box and bought a 'classic' Jap 280Z. Sure enough: rust. But in places so hard to reach that it's doubtful he'll ever repair it. At least with a TVR/ Lotus/et al you can lift the shell off...
I know another guy with a Bristol: he's still on the waiting list for a particular part that is only made in Australia by one guy working in his shed. Then there's the Ferrari 400s that get broken for spares because intrinsically they're not worth 'much', despite the badge.
Ultimately, we're all adults. You pay your money and live with the consequences. Or stick to your rep-mobile.
Thanks for the replies.
Another question: I am only a novice DIYer when it comes to cars. If I get a wedge, it will be a 4th vehicle and will only be used sometimes, however I am looking for a motor I can 'tinker' with (small jobs, not engine-out rebuilds!) and I will enjoy this as much as driving it.
Is a wedge 'tinkerable'?
Another question: I am only a novice DIYer when it comes to cars. If I get a wedge, it will be a 4th vehicle and will only be used sometimes, however I am looking for a motor I can 'tinker' with (small jobs, not engine-out rebuilds!) and I will enjoy this as much as driving it.
Is a wedge 'tinkerable'?
Definitely 'tinkerable'...virtually every part of the car, plus always plenty of advice on here, as well as www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk
"Tinkerable" is the very nature of a Wedge. That is the prime reason I put up my post. I don't disagree with Ian one little bit, I am merely expressing my point of view. Being a TVR fan for nearly 40 years, I decided to restore my Wedge for no other reason than I want to drive it safely and regularly. Not having the where-with-all I have had to dig deep to make it happen. I am still getting pleasure by watching, discussing and feeling others doing the work.
Henry Harris said:
"Tinkerable" is the very nature of a Wedge. That is the prime reason I put up my post. I don't disagree with Ian one little bit, I am merely expressing my point of view. Being a TVR fan for nearly 40 years, I decided to restore my Wedge for no other reason than I want to drive it safely and regularly. Not having the where-with-all I have had to dig deep to make it happen. I am still getting pleasure by watching, discussing and feeling others doing the work.
Not sure about the 'feeling' Henry. 
Forums | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff